Trailer Brake controller?

Just installed my brake controller. I like how it turned out. I wanted something that looked a little more stock than a normal brake controller so I settled on a Hopkins flex-mount. The only thing you see is the display and manual brake control. The sensitivity buttons are on the side of the slide. Take a look at the picture I added and tell me what you think. I mounted the brain of the controller up under the dash.

 

Looks good! Out of curiosity, would it have been possible to remove the display from it's baseplate then mount it to the right of the cubby on the outside, like the lever is on the left? Just wondering if there was anyway to retain the use of the cubby - not that I use it anyway.

 

Nice job.

 

As I mentioned a couple months back that I was going to design and print a mount for a standard brake controller, I got it done last night. I'll try to install tomorrow, then post those pics. Here is the printed housing with the brake controller installed.

 

Waiting to hear how this worked out and more specifics of the controller. Chance of purchasing one in the future?

 

I thought about that, and I could still give it a shot. Didn't have much spare time and need to tow a trailer. So I got it installed, I might try it when I have more time to mess with it. The base just unclips from the display, so yeah it's possible.

 

Here it is installed. Had to print a new housing due to some dimensional restrictions I didn't foresee. Haven't hooked it up to a trailer yet, but no reason it should be an issue. Installed using the pre-made cable adapter. If you want me to print you an install kit (Mounting shell, 2 brackets, and a template), send me a PM. I took several photos throughout the process and would need to compile an install guide. With instructions, this kit, and the brake/harness parts, install should only take about 60-90 (really taking your time) minutes. You WILL have to cut a couple parts for this to fit, but you can't see the cut areas once re-assembled. The only 'specialy' tool needed is a Dremel with cutting wheels.

 

We are working on this for the P2 and the P3. This will be a replacement panel that you install from the back. Remove the 4 screws on the back that holds on the compartment and install our panel. Gives it a clean factory look. Let us know what you think.

 

It appears your kit will still require cutting the main panel, in addition to installing your mounting plate. Have you installed this on a truck yet? Would like to see a profile photo to see how far the brake controller protrudes from the dash. Would also like to know if once installed, if you had any clearance issues with the controller that required any additional cutting on the interior dash panel.

 

Nice! But forgive me for my ignorance but how do you access the four screws you mentioned to remove the panel? Do you also have to pull your old panel off, remove the wires to the switches, then pop the switches free, to reinstall and connect the switch wiring in your panel? Again looks nice!

 

I was a bit premature when I cut the front of the panel. I cut first before I had the panel made. I am trying to find a truck to put it in, so when I do, I will post more pictures. I have to buy another panel to see if it has to be cut with the P2. The P3 will not require any cutting at all. Yes, to access the 4 screws you need to remove the panel and disconnect the switches. However, that is a simple process. That panel just snaps into the dash from what I can tell. Stay Tuned

 

There are 3 screws on the lower part of the panel.

To get to one of them, you must remove the lower-left most trim piece (pops out, one push-nut and a few snaps), which requirea you to remove the plastic chunk from the doorsill to floorboard. That one just pops out.

 

I wish you were closer, my P3 arrived today!

 

For anyone curious about the steps for panel removal, attached are some instructions I put together for my setup.

 

Hmm.... my panel does not look like that at all..

 

Looks very similar to me. Only difference I'm seeing is that you don't have the slot/switch for a bed light. Guessing you're in an access cab.

 

I would be interested, looks good.

 

There are 3 different part numbers for that panel, most likely for different models. The opening is the same and the box on the back is the same. The final product is going to look good. The one that I have is a prototype that was printed. The production part will be injection molded.

 

So I installed it into a truck today. I was able to pull that panel off without removing anything. Took about 5 minutes to disassemble, install, disassemble again and reinstall the old panel. This is what it looks like installed with the P2. Mind you, with the production part, I do not believe that any cutting will be needed, and for the P3, there definitely won' t be any cutting needed.