Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Yeah thats low for sure, so since it settled, how much shaft is showing at your shocks? Still no way 6 up, pinion would be through the upper oilpan. Im not trying to discredit, just trying to see where the extra clearance everyone else has been missing out on is coming from. Its not just the smaller pumpkin on the D44 either. The underside of my frame rails are notched as well...

 

QFT brother...well minus the hillclimbs, gotta love the 128 wheelbase lol

 

Shocks have about 3" showing right now but sit 10 inches in from the wheel face. So the 6" up from the hub was measured with the angular travel, Not jumping travel. The upper actually would contact the motor mount and exhaust. I have it that far over so that i sit that low,
We had a super 60 and a sterling 10.5 over here when i did the swap and trust me that pumpkin made all the duffrence in stuffing. There is a nice pocket to the diverside of the engine where it sits nicely in there and like my upper this allowed the drive shaft to run right next to the engine and almost be at factory angel. Trust me i know what im doing with the linkages. My steering set up during lock to lock travel throught the motion comes within 0.0625 of each other at points. The pan hard is bent around the pumpkin and engine like a mad man to get it to clear. I really do think that that dana 44 hp is what gave the hight. That thing just simply fits under there

 

Its the stalling/loseing momentum, having to back down, end up sideways half way up that scare me, not the rolling over backwards part.

 

That's fun only cause you have a raisin'

But before your rig becomes a beat up raising, yea, being off camber and tippy all the time is not that much fun when you are trying to preserve a few body panels.

Don't get me wrong; my truck has scratches all over and bent metal like all others. But is it is not a mangled raising yet. I guess i won't fullt enjoy it until it becomes one lol

 

Its wheeling sacreligious to have a smooth paneled "wheeler" toyota!!

 

Hill descent is what makes my ass pucker. Going up isn't as bad as going down IMO

 

No need to have smooth panels.

Beat up POS in which doors can't close anymore is a different thing

 

ya'll can shut it down cuz mine looks amazing with only one dent in the front fender. As far as hill climbs go i guess i've just never been in a situation where backing down the MF was an issue.

 

I've always said as long as my doors seal and windows are intact I'm good! Even the roof is dented. She definitely looks best in low light from about 20 feet away lol.

 

I had to use a comealong and prybars and bfh to get my tube doors to line up. Kinda

 

Same here! Evrey panel is dented in some way shape of form. Mine doesnt look good in any light or distance unless you are into rockcrawling lol!!

 

Mu crushed C-Pillar is the only one that bothers me...if only the exo were done I wouldn't have hooked on the rollbar at the front of the bed lol

 

Lol Same. Mine was reasonably straight until I can openered the driver's door jam on a rock with the doors. 3 hours of beating/pulling later and the door seals up enough to keep rain out

 

Its not just the hills and off-camber When we lowered Eddy's (the silver truck Acerwin posted) a lot of it was for the onroad handling. We'd just spent 5 days driving around Kentucky up in the mountains. On the highways and backroad all the trucks were swaying and bodyrolling like a bitch. I figured out real quick that the bumpstops I've been neglecting, need to get addressed soon. When we got back we started talking about how to get his lower. The problem was the panhard bar was going end up hitting the oil pan and we weren't about to do a bent panhard bar setup. That's when we got the bright idea to move the engine up.

Engine was moved up about and inch and a half or so, then the frame notched for the drag link and panhard and the tirewall tubbed. Obviously the towers for the CO were moved up too and he shot part of the tower brace through the hood for fun.

If he wants to raise it a little it's not a big deal, we can preload the springs a little. But now it's about as low as they get.

As a happy bonus it also solved his rear axle wrap problems. WIN WIN

 

so im sitting at 30" of frame height with no rear axle wrap on chev 63's cuz i did this little trick

 

I killed too many sets before I made mine:

 

Cool pics, as I need some ideas for an effective trac bar. Need to start on that next.

 

no shocks? did you make your own bracket? My axle wrap is pretty bad with my 63s.. also has anyone ever thrown in an AAL for the 63s?

 

Shocks are outboard of the spring perches and out of photo. Used a traction bar "kit" I bought from Ballistic 6 years ago...basically link material, shackle, joints, and hangers.