Mid Travel BS 2.0

It's only bad to preload your springs to the point that you run into coil bind.

 

I would say make sure that is the correct length spring for that shock. The fox is set up quite different than the bilsteins. Other than that seems like a pretty light spring rate to me. What vehicle is it on?

 

Measure the amount of space in between each rung of the coils and then measure shock shaft length.. If the shock shaft length is smaller than the coil gap total length then your running into coil “binding”... aka: not good

 

Thanks for the replies guys.
I was pretty sure the coil wasn't going to block before full bump when I measured everything out but it wouldn't hurt to double check. I see exactly what you mean if you preload too much then coil can bind when the shock compresses. They are 12" springs which is the longest I could get with the original Fox 2.0 X 5" rod ends/spring perches. My clevis adapters and spring perches didn't take away any shaft stroke.

This is on a Jeep Liberty
I didn't have a way to weigh the front end for the calculations, I just used OME's HD springs as a reference (400 lb) stock is 310 lbs.

 

Just posted this for someone else and realized it was on the old MT thread so here it is again for the new thread. Edit - @2ndGenJonny this might be another good one to tag on the first page.


Here are a couple of tips for installing coil bucket / double sheer gussets I wrote up previously and saved :

1. They will not fit perfectly because every frame wrinkle and every weld booger from Toyota is slightly different. You can't just hold them up and burn em' on you generally have to do a bit of grinding on the aforementioned lovely OE weld boogers and the gussets themselves....super simple with a 4" grinder and a flap disc.

2. UCA bolt will now be even more fun to get in and out because the gussets eliminate the wiggle room you had before.

• Before you install the gussets look at the bolt holes and sand down any burs or sharp edges that could catch the bolt threads on the way through. A uni bit works great too, just lightly hit it with the bevel of the next step.
• Make your own UCA bolt removal tools - Buy a few feet of 1/4" solid rod, any size smaller than the UCA bolt will work for this. Cut one piece short enough to fit between the end of the bolt and the firewall but leave enough room to tap it with a hammer or wrench etc this will get the bolt removal started easily. Cut a second piece long enough to tap the entire bolt out.
• I made myself a third tool to reinstall the UCA bolt too, just a piece of the same rod long enough to reach all the way through the core wall. This lets you easily tap the UCA bolt back in with a mallet from out front ( with the grill off of course ).
• On my truck the UCA bolt did not come close enough to any holes in the core wall ( post gusset install ) to get the bolt all the way out anymore. This was due to the lack of wiggle room for both the bolt and the UCA itself because the UCA is now sandwiched in the gussets and the bolt now passes through more junk...grab a hole saw and make your own hole in the core wall for the bolt to pass through. No point in fighting it every time you touch it in the future.

If you do all of these tricks removing and reinstalling the UCA bolt takes just a matter of seconds.


3. Get some very very thin washers to use to locate the gussets properly I.E. like brass crush washers. If you can't find any cut your own out of heavy construction paper. Place a washer on either side of the UCA bushing between the bushing and the gussets surface. This will give you a MM of wiggle room to wiggle your UCA in and out.

4. When welding the gussets into place the welding process will make them shrink or pull in..this is why you should have the UCA and the washers all installed during welding so it will not shrink / warp past that point. If you are welding any outside edges of the gussets weld those last, again - when you weld the inside edge it pulls in so when you weld the outside edge it will pull back out a bit.

5. Having the UCA fully installed also keeps the bolt holes in the gussets perfectly 90 degrees to the bolt. I've seen people get em' a bit crooked and then have to chase or ream the gussets hole.

6. Grease the outside edges of you UCA bushings where they will now meet the gussets unless you like your suspension to sound like you are torturing ferrets in your wheel wells. It's funny how many people think their uniballs mysteriously got super squeeky when it's actually their UCA and LCA poly bushing screaming for help as they dry hump the truck.

7. Drink beer.

8. Have fun.

9. Wear a face shield when grinding.

10. Don't let weld sparks go down your shorts...if one does refer back to #7 repeatedly.

 

Rears done. Fronts soon

 

Thanks @Evenflow

 

I currently have this issue.

How exactly did you remedy it?

To me it almost sounds like its where the steering wheel meets the column that the squeak comes from

 

He said that it wasn't coming from his rack. He lubed his uniballs and the squeak went away.

 

Will try.

But it almost sounds like something is binding. Even with the covers removed, i haven't seen anything bind up

 

This^^

 

If it makes you feel any better, I had a popping/creaking sound that was coming from my rack. Oddly enough, I didn't do anything to it and the noise eventually went away. I don't know if my rack had air that had to bleed out or what. I'm just happy it went away.

 

Fronts done. And some flex

 

Did you get the adjusters?

 

It squeaks on the first half a rotation left. Then squeaks right before returning to center.

Squeaks all the way through the first 1.5 rotation to the right. Then right before returning to center.

 

No CDC. These are Icon 2.5 with resi, 700lb spring, and standard travel

 

Cool. Why did you go icon, not king or fox?

 

Because he got a good deal.

 

Good reason.

 

Does DSM sell extended travel king shocks with resis?