Heavy load baring rack attachment to front bumper – your opinions appreciated.

I need to attach a rack to my front bumper for hauling 20’ sticks of metal, lumber, hang gliders and a white water raft. Imagine a horizontal bar on metal posts matched to the plane of roof rack bars. I regret not making my own but I decided on this bumper which is lighter and sexier than I would ever make myself. Must be located just behind my headlamps and must be quick to put on and take off. This is how I was thinking of attaching the rack.



Figure A was nixed by Scotty at Addicted off-road and rightly so. Now that I measured the dimensions of the bumper (see photo) i see why. But fig. A maintains the sexy aesthetics of that bumper best. Fig B could also just be a solid bar welded to the side face of the bumper, not sure what square bar stock will telescope. C could be welded or bolted and if using 1.24"x1.24" or 2"x2" prevents issues with weld seams in the metal stock relative to B.

Anyone have a better idea? Anyone see issues with these?

 

I just think these methods are lame and ugly. One would think with all the German engineers and CNC milling machines in the world someone has really slick structural metal attachment product that would work and look better.

Note: I do not need to use square bar as the posts to support the top rack. Round bar/tube is ok too and would match the aesthetics of the bumper better.

--------EDIT----------

Also anyone knows of information that spells out what common tube sizes, square or round, will nest or telescope easily please post those.

 

How much weight are you hauling?
On our work trucks we haul rail that is 136 pounds per 3 feet so there is easy 500 pounds on the front uprite and its 4x4 but it is the most like B. single post straight up. That will be the strongest as the force is pushing down on the bumper.
What about sinking b down into the bumper from the top?

 

worst case would be this. Or maybe 4 to 6 2 x 2 angle irons at 20'. Maybe some 2x4" lumber. Not sure what those weight but the weight is shared with 2 Thule roof racks and at least 1, maybe more bars in the rear. Like a contractor latter rack but not one unit.

That is reassuring given that a hang glider weights ~70lbs and some metal sticks rarely add up to my body weight. The forward backward moment is what i am most worried about so if you use little stakes/studs/male posts like in B that is good to know. Do you have photos you can post.

It is an idea i can play with but I do not have a plasma cutter, my grinder is too big and my demmel is too weak. (Gosh i hate to mess up that nice looking bumper) What about mounting it to the side wall? Is that not as good? I predict the sidewall is the strongest part of the bumper. downward weight would still rest on the top plate.

What is a rail? Like Rail Road Rail?

 

Yeah railroad rail we haul 40 ft. 1810 pounds on 3 supports so 604lbs each.
I was trying to find a pic on the internet but not coming up with what I wanted.
But the front rack is a 4x4 that goes into a larger sleeve and has a single pin to hold it in.
Then a single chain that we throw over the rail to pull it down. we don't get much back & forth.
Not that on the side isn't strong like your drawing C but you are relying on your welds alone to take the force in sheer.
Prob fine with the weight your gonna haul. But if you simply talking strength in design pushing down like B will have more strength in the vertical I guess.

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...y5Qjubkh_zNnzweePWOssY8w&ust=1474953028685939

 

The second pic isn't bad. And what to you know they have the bumper mount welded in sheer so I'd think it would be good to go for you.

 

I kinda agree man. There's gotta be a much better way to achieve what you're going after here. Are you the one that was sketching and asking about how to mount a winch on the back or something like that?

 

What about a center receiver.
Go straight up the middle hey diddle diddle lol

 

I have a 2.5' hunk of railraod iron. It is a bitch to move. cant imagine it ON my truck. When i was a high school teacher my students and I used it as an anvil to forge swords. Fricking heavy. I will not be caring anything like that. When i say metal... I mean, like a couple of 1"x1" angles or square tube.



Most people make front glider racks tie into traditionally located front receiver hitches. But i hate the glare from the lights at night and tend to locate my weight off to one side, so lateral location is better than medial.

 

YEP. I think i got that one figured out and I will update that thread if it works. I just need to nail this glider rack idea down before I commit to that bumper

I know. I have looked for a long time and receiver hitches are as innovative as i can find. Same with the winch mount on the other thread.... I would love ideas. Even if it is some ubber expensive stainless coupling hand made by well paid Swiss gnomes.

 

Why wouldn't a traditional ladder rack or heavy duty construction rack work? Because of the lengths of what you'll carry?I was thinking you were wanting to carry a bit of weight up there. But what's max you'd estimate? 300 lbs?

 

Thanks for the lead. Looks like you posted that as i mentioned it. I had one like that and it was a pain. You had to keep the weight in the center. I often have to keep weight on one side, so lateral is better than medial.

Also every bump and vibration moved the glider and that leads to wear on the darcon cloth. My last car had support just outside the 1/4 panels (lateral) behind the headlights and it was WAY more stable, better for the glider, and easier to load the gliders.

 

The little one side ladder racks would work sometimes. But the big cab-over ones are out. I need the bed clear for hauling other things and I need to quickly remove the front and rear racks when not in use. I have friends with big contractor racks and they are bomber. Very strong. But too heavy and too much windage. Also it will get in the way of my pop up camper and will require multiple people to remove. I want easy off and easy on. high clearance (no low to the ground front receivers). modular.

mounting to the bumper approximately where I drew is really going to be the only option.

 

In addition to fig B above. something like this could be welded on, with gussets. BUT it would collect rain water and dirt leading to rust.

Same with Key Joints.



And again, it looks like sh!t. A $800 bumper deserves a nicer attachment.

 

None of these work. Too bulky. But I figured i would post them in case other people find this thread looking for cool structural couplings.
Keyword: mast pole frame joint juncture coupling quick release attachment

http://www.portablemasts.com.au/Clark/clarkp5.htm



https://www.k1cra.com/

i reserve the right to update this post without bumping as i find more.

 

This also caught my eye. Not really going to solve my problems but it is a testament of what rednecks are capable of when they have too much time and money.

My keywords were: pole sleeve platform pin so... google had every right to return this result and i have every right to repost it on this only sometimes family friendly forum.

 

Lolol, that's funny. I would think a good high end fabricator could come up with something man... There's gotta be a smooth way to incorporate something to that bumper, gotta be. Sorry I'm not much help, but I'm rooting for you.

 

I know camper tie down bumper buttons are not the way to go,

but they are an example of low profile attachment points. Numerous buttons or some T channel or keyhole plate joining system maybe exists? Unistrut would just looks silly down there but soething like that might work. It is just more bolting than i planned.