What you need to know about lifting a 2016 Tacoma - Presented by Toytec Lifts

Any issues with rubbing at all? I'm going with the almost identical set up. Possibly going to wheel spacers on just to make sure it doesn't but if I don't have to that one less thing I have to buy.

 

Crso, ......no rubbing (yet) but I am happy I didn't go with the wider wheels (rims). The wheels I have now may rub the front inner fender (front side of wheel well) when the wheel is turned and tires is tucking up from articulation but that would be minimal at worst. .....I took it out on some trails yesterday and was not able to get it to rub twisting it out in the ruts to allow full articulation.

You don't need wheel spacers (adapters) if you get aftermarket wheels with propper size and offset on 285 75 r16.

I liked the factory TRD wheels and did consider spidertrax wheel adaptors but just personally am not comfortable with wheel adaptors. Although I'm sure with propper installation and upkeep they are fine. I didn't want to worry about upkeep and some tire shops wont mount tires on them including Discount Tires where I get my tires.

 

I did mounted G2 1.25 spacers on , after about 2 weeks of research. All I got is positive answers. I can maximize durability and safety if I check and change the spacers log nuts every time I do a tire rotation. For what I was told, though I'm not in to mudding. I just did for looks with out expending that much money. When I turned the steering wheell I feel some robing on the lower outside part of the fender. I'm looking in to a 1.5 leveling kit. Just like to keep as much of the truck original integrity.

 

Hell boy, you don't need to change lug nuts with every tire rotation for maintenance. Red Locktite and the required torque setting at install. .....Then check torque setting with every tire rotation.

With the red Locktite those lugs should need to be heated just to get them to come off.

I think it's a great option as I really liked the factory wheels I'm just too lazy to re-torque them at every tire rotation.

 

good to know, thanks

 

Yw. Red Locktite and propper torque setting is key.

 

So you are fine with a spacer that preloads your factory springs to gain your lift, which your factory coils and shocks are not designed for, but you hesitate on a wheel spacer?

Help me understand your thought process on this please.

 

Gramps, I don't have a problem with wheel adaptors, I do have a problem with wheel spacers, there is a difference. As far as that goes I chose to just get new wheels with an offset that works for my tire choice.

As far as my lift goes I chose a simple lift that will serve my intent of use on this vehicle at this time. I fully understand the different options I could go with as I have modded many 4x4s. My last 2 were JKs but prior I had a heavily modified FJ Cruiser so I do understand the suspension dynamics of this truck.

This is not all that indifferent then the 5100s people preload to 2 1/2 inches with factory springs and a top cap spacer. When Bilstien comes out with 5100 for 16+ tacoma I'll check it out. It would just be a simple strut replacement. But more then likely I would put more into it than that strut as I wouldn't really consider it much of a step up.

Everything is a compromise and everything has its limitations. Is the ride much different than factory? Not that I noticed much. The spring rate itself is linear. Does it ride as well as my FJ on a modded OME lift? Not at all.

So in the end this works well for now. And it will see plenty of trail work. Like the rest of us I'm sure I'll always find a need for some mod down the road.

Another note about this kit before you ask, is why I would install the diff drop, right? .....I personally do not believe its necessary on this truck below 3 inches but I installed it anyways. Just in case you're wondering about that too. My FJ had as much lift, hit the trails often and never had a problem with the CV's. Again, to each his own.

 

Your smiles per gallon will go up.

 

that is a thing of beauty right there...good work. How much trimming/cbc was required to fit those tires? that's the same size of rim and tire and lift that i'm wanting to go for.

 

nicely done. truck looks badass

 

Hey guys, I have been following this thread but havn't had time to read the whole thing. I have an expedition one steel bumper going on in a couple weeks with a winch. So I'm going to be forced to do suspension upgrades. The OME nitrocharger kit seems like a good value. I'm under the impression i need 886 coils with the stiff shocks. As well as UCAs. Are cheaper UCAs good enough, or should I go billet/other?

The truck will be used for moderate off roading. Not too much rocks, but a lot of jeep trails, mud holes, and riding on property that has recently been clear cut, so driving over stumps and downed trees.

I don't want to buy new wheels unless I have to. So I was thinking of going with 255/85/16 on the stock trdor wheels.

I don't mind doing CMC, but would rather not unless it is actually needed.

Should this setup be good offroad? I dont care about looks, I want more capability.

What would stepping up to an icon/fox kit get me over the OME?

Thanks!

 

What is the typical price difference between the two lift options? I want to lift my 2017 TRD OR but I have to admit... I'm so afraid of driving a horse wagon afterwards. The bad ride and potential for vibrations has kept me from taking the plunge. Any advice? Thx

 

There is a big difference, not only on ride quality but in price when it comes to spacers vs full suspension. Spacers will easily lift your vehicle and are prices very cheap, but it will change the ride quality and make it stiffer than stock. Full suspensions have many different options as well, but if you are looking for a better ride quality than stock you are probably going to spend some money to achieve that.
If you give us a call we can go over some options if you would like.
303-255-4959

 

For what it is worth, I opted to swap out my OR with a Bilstein 6112/5160 combo and a 3 leaf AAL. The ride quality (on road) is as nice if not a little nicer than stock. Not harsh, very controlled- feels as if it was OR+

Offroad it is equally nice. I can't say it runs over washboards or ruts like a King suspension would, but it is exactly what I hoped it would be and didn't really break the bank. It's a good trail riding set up. Lot's of forest roads, ranch fields- really nice suspension. Cost would be right around $1,500 more or less. Did the install myself as well.

 

what is the best move for someone wanting to max out haul weight? I want to be able to put stuff in the bed and not have it sag like crazy.

 

Sumo Springs...

$280 SSR-610-40 | SumoSprings Rear for Toyota Tundra, Toyota Tacoma, Nissan Frontier, Nissan Titan

https://www.amazon.com/SuperSprings...8&qid=1475254711&sr=8-1&keywords=sumo+springs

 

Best lift kit for $3000 - $3500 which includes UCA's and full replacement Dakar spring packs. And go!

Fox, King, Icon, OME BP-51, Toytec Boss are all on the table. Plan on using the truck for 75% on road and 25% expedition style offroading with 400lbs of bed weight over all sorts of terrain. Not necessarily looking to mob thru the desert at 90mph and want a comfortable on-road ride with about 150 lbs of constant bed weight

 

Replace the weak Toyota leafs with... anything else. I'm running the dakars and they've held up pretty well with weight in the bed and towing. There are plenty of options out there. The stock leafs have a long history of snapping and air bags will help, but not solve the problem... assuming you're willing to deal with the hassle.

 

I've posted my setup a few times here; went with the Icons/SPC UCAs/ Dakars. Let me know if you want to check it out in person, I didn't have that luxury.