3rd Gen BHLM and light mods

I also want to reinforce Three Things:
Don't be afraid to bake! I was so afraid at first, putting the light in at 260F, turning the oven off, then putting the light in for 8 minutes. It was IMPOSSIBLE to get off. 300F at 10minutes was a perfect idea. It works great.

Grip the right place: When you are pullling, i find it is easiest to undo all of the tabs FIRST, and begin pulling on the reflector portion of the headlight, working your way towards the opposite.

Don't be afraid to pull, assuming your light is hot: Even after becoming impatient and putting it in the oven at 300F for 14 minutes, I still was confused why my light wasn't pealing apart. I was just being a pussy. Use some elbow grease, but stay focused and be gentle. Watch the Adhesive pull apart. Sometimes at a certain pulling point you don't need to keep increasing pulling force, you can just maintain the same amount of force and watch the light gradually pull apart and this will help avoid overpulling. If it cools down too much, you WILL crack your lights. Its so worth it to just put it back in for 4 minutes than to peel apart another 4cm of glue and risk cracking it before having to put it back in anyway.

To reseal my headlights, it was really easy to reuse the existing permaseal, even after really abusing the plastic around it. Bend the hot tabs in first, and then apply pressure throughout the lens to push it into the permaseal. I find that if you hurry, grab a drill, and begin to put the screws back in while it is still hot, it really pushes the lens deep into the hot permaseal. Around the exterior, I used a clear sealant. No water gets in, just washed them!

Good luck, and thank you for your post!

 

Im thinking about doing this. Just a few questions:

1 how long do I need to allow from start to finish?

2 what all tools do I need?

3 what kind of paint?

4 what can be painted, what should not? I have seen a few mods, but i havent seen any one paint the inner fins covering the amber colored light.

 

1. I'd set aside a whole day, 2 if you're really worries. complexity of what you want to do can add time.

2. Depends on what all you want to do. Minimum would be a Philips head screw driver, flat head screw driver, sockets for bumper removal and headlight removal, an oven, cutting board to put the lights on in the oven. That's about it tool wise. Again, complexity of your build wants adds tools.

3. Krylon Flat Black (Matt Black) that says it will bond to plastic. Any place that sells rattle cans will have it 9/10 times.

4. This depends on your imagination. Paint what ya want, just don't paint the glass of the projector (Obviously) or the inside of the high beam bucket....unless you don't want functional high beams.

I've seen someone on here paint the fins. I kinda wish I had...but not enough to tear my headlights out and apart again.

 

Fins

 

I painted the chrome around the high beams. It looks good but was a really bad idea considering my high beams no longer function. I have a light bar and cube lights on my bull bar but it is still a huge pain. Now I'm looking into replacing my driving light bulbs to something LED and far more bright to compensate. Any recommendations for a very bright bulb that has a white shade of light?

 

If you "reused the existing permaseal" you are definitely going to have moisture issues. The permaseal will not rebond to the lens like it did when applied when the lights were made. It hardens and bonds the lens to the channel.

I fix lights for a local dealership, lots of Cadillacs the permaseal unbonds from the lens after just a few years




Permaseal is definitely not meant to be reused, you're supposed to remove it all and replace with butyl

 

I agree with this fully, but reused mine with added RTV and have had no issues FWIW.

 

I see what you guys are saying, BUT if you ever have to remove the lens again you are going to hate your life more than you did with the permaseal.

Replacing it with butyl would be as simple as 260 in the oven for 6-8 minutes and it would pop right apart like butter.

 

I just used the exhausting permaseal to hold it together, and beaded a heavy amount of clear silicon sealant around the edges afterwards and let dry before installing. Zero issues with moisture

 

I missed the silicone part, either way if you ever have to take those lights apart again (would be more possible if you retrofitted and put led strips/halos in, you would hate your life taking them back apart. lol

 

I think I remember getting the permaseal in the ridge where you place the lens into being very difficult to completely get out, even when it is hot. I think this is why I re used it. What was your method of getting it out? Just elbow grease?

 

elbow grease, patience and lots of warming with the oven/heat gun

 

Subscribed

 

Ok if i cant find someone in or near sacramento CA to pay to get this done what paint and sealant will i need. Ive read the entire thread and others and i want the best method. Last time i did this to my 09 tacoma i had moisture issues because i reused the seal. I believe i used a satin black kryon paint and had to scuff up the chrome first. I see someone mentioned a matte black that i dont need to scuff anything up and just paint over the chrome. Also i see people suggesting different methods of sealants. I want the black inside to match the trd pro head light color. Not sure of thats a satin flat or matte finish?

 

Krylon Covermaxx matte or flat black works well on plastic chrome.

 

Yup. Krylon cover max (fusion has been discontinued IIRC) I use matte for a stealth look. The pro's are glossy, probably semi-gloss

 

I wonder if thats why i should use satin black for the gloss effect.

 

Very helpful thread and looks awesome. Trying to gather the courage to do myself.

 

I might have a forum member make mine unknown atm. Waiting on sale of my stock wheels tires first.
Either that or im going to tackle this my own. When i open the light to dismantle does the lens come off so i dont have to tape it off? Also using latex gloves ok to touch the lens and what process do i take cleaning the inside before install? A can of compressed air and alcohol wipes?

 

DO NOT WIPE THE INSIDE OF LENS. Compressed air only. Latex gloves are a must..Remove lens, set it aside in clean environment.
Scuff chrome with scotchbrite pad, clean with de-greaser and paint it.

Clean out old sealant in headlight bucket channel as much as you can.. this will give the new retro rubber a good seal, and allow the lens to sit deep in channel like it came from the factory.

Install new rubber, press lens on.. set in oven for 8min @ 240. take out and clamp it in($1 lowes spring clamps work perfect)