Long Travel BS Thread

got a question for those with long travel: im drawing up a kit in solidworks and have managed to get it to 2deg of bumpsteer over the entirety of the travel. 1deg toe out at droop and 1 deg toe in a bump. this is after the arms have cycled 50deg or ~17"s vertical travel.
Should I mess with the angles and lengths a bit more or does this seem acceptable?

 

That is fine, you will always get SOME bumpsteer, its nearly impossible to have zero while also trying to keep your camber/castor in control. Also, sometimes a few degrees negative camber at droop helps with bumpsteer

 

Are you going to be using the stock spindle? How much over stock is your SketchUp? If you are using the stock spindle, there's a chance that you might not get a full 17 inches metal to metal. Your Bump steer measurements might be less or not noticeable to a certain degree once the upper uniball and the stock spindle are factored in. If youre using the stock spindle at all.

 

It's 4" over and pushes the wheelbase 2" forward. Spindle will have a horizontal lower uniball and vertical upper uniball. Also, to help with caster change the upper arm is only canted at 8deg not the stock 15deg

 

I played with having negative camber at droop, but decided a slight positive camber would make it better mannered on the street as the contact patch isn't being taken away from the inner wheel when turning

 

I went with a arb air locker. Cost was ~1000 Installed

 

Curious why not just go completely flat UCA? I never rode in a tacoma with parallel arms. I think the pickups have parallel arms when looking at the side view on the suspension. Going to run more caster than factory?

 

anyone going to sema this year?

 

where is that at?

 

I have a couple of buddies that are headed out there. They are going to be part of the vendor section.

 

vegas

nice! my friend and his family is going but his uncle isnt going anymore and offered me the pass so i was wondering how anal they are about checking ids and stuff. from what ive heard they dont as long as you have your pass visible but i dont wanna fly out and get hotel rooms if they turn me down out of all of us walking in haha

 

i think the only way to get it that cheap would be to build it all and buy the pulleys and such from a company. I searched for over a year for a good deal and ended up buying the one i listed.

 

I would have your uncle call them and tell them that something came up and that he wants to transfer his pass to you and see what they say. That way when you get out there-there should be no issues.

 

I go every year for the past 5 years and have never been asked for an ID.

 

parallel a arms give no caster gain and that would eliminate all the antidive; my goal is to have a truck that is still usable on the street so some compromise has to be made. Also, by keeping the hub above the lower pivot point you can have slight wheel regression with a canted a arm; which isnt possible on arms that are parallel unless the whole assembly is canted back and i dont want to modify the lower mounts

also, yes its designed to run 4.5 deg caster at ride height. stock is between 1 and 3

 

Thanks, always curious on the design intent on people that change their factory geometry. I see the full blown race trucks running no anti dive (or at least doesn't look like they run any). I have no idea if it would make street driving any worse when you consider a long travel truck with 13+ inches of wheel travel up front and 17+ in the rear. I think the factory anti dive is pretty aggressive on a tacoma with aftermarket suspension. I haven't modeled my truck suspension yet , but seems fun when I make the time to do it. I can see doing something right in the middle being a good starting point for a truck that sees dirt and street equally.

 

Originally I had a design that ran the stock mounts, but had issues trying to get a second shock to fit which prompted the idea to spread the upper a arm and put both shocks between, but I needed to run over 6deg caster at ride height or it would go negative at droop; thus the other change to decrease the angle

 

Good info. Thanks. Sounds like a fun challenge. Post some teaser pics when you think you have a good design.

 

I've been doing some reading through threads trying to decide which way to go on suspension mods and have some questions...Once my Tacoma is back in my possession I will be selling off my Tundra at some point and am hoping to get about 4k for it. That money will most likely go straight into modifications so I am going to start getting a part/cost sheet going to see where my final costs would end on a complete LT setup (Tires, wheels, gearing, rear end done up etc). I don't want to start the LT without being able to complete it all in one go.

I doubt I will be doing any sort of high speed off-road running, I mainly want to build my truck up for trail use and some minor/medium rock rolling. Considering this I have thought about just doing a mid travel and calling it good but I have always cheaped out on suspension and usually just go with some sort of leveling kit, upgraded shocks and whatever tire size I can comfortably stuff without any body modification. This is all mainly due to the fact I have never owned a 4x4, only trucks with a rear locker.

I would go with the Allpro kit as I don't want to have to deal with glass fenders and the added cost that comes with it.

So for the intended way I would be using the truck would a LT kit be beneficial or should I stick with just Mid-Travel?
As I understand it with the Allpro kit you can run 33" tires without any sort of trimming?
How do you (or not) go about evening the spacing on the rear to match the front outside of wheel spacers? Are wheel spacers an effective option?
From the stickied post about a proper LT setup on 05+ Tacoma's - is all the added reinforcement necessary and if so is it something I could do from an at home garage (torch and stick welder)?
Gearing.....I would be changing (and also adding an ARB Locker) gearing in the rear - What about the front though, I doubt I will add a locker in the front as I have read that it requires more upgraded parts to not tear sh*t apart - Any thoughts on this or someone who has done it?

 

Anyone running a SUA kit with a bamf shock relocation kit? If so what is your set up on the shocks?