Power window and power lock switches not working on any doors

So, this is actually my first post here. I've trawled through here and the Internet but can't really find much. This is the second time this has happened to me.

All power to the switches on my doors is gone, no power lock or switches on the drivers control panel or any of the individual ones. All of my fuses are good and all the connections are good. I did look at the one connection to the motherboard on the drivers side control panel and one of the prongs is like burnt out, I tried scraping some of the crud off but it didn't work. I don't have anything aftermarket plugged into the fuses. I'm just wondering if anyone has had this problem and/or had any ideas of what it could be?

Just shit luck of having a bad motherboard or something? But would that cut off power to all the doors?

 

Broken wire or wires coming into the door time to break out the meter

All the window and door lock functions go through your Master switch

 

Did you disconnect the battery recently?
The Windows will need to be reset

 

No I haven't disconnected the battery
I just have to check if it's getting power.

 

Do you have a photo of this? If there is a burn mark that is a possible sign of a bad connection which heated up. If it's corrosion perhaps both the prong and the other half which mates to the prong are both covered with crud/oxidation/etc.

 

Those are the best I could get

 

That doesn't look right. There is definitely something going on there.

Did you try cleaning it off some rubbing alcohol and a q-tip?
Is the spacing between the metal prongs in your last photo wider at the burnt locations compared to the other locations? Perhaps this is what caused the overheating if that is what occurred here.
Also does wire insulation on that one pin look different (like it was overheated) compared to the other wires coming out of that connector? Discolored / brown / slightly melted insulation are signs something heated up.
And is the wire / wire crimp loose for that burnt location? Try jiggling the wire at the back of the connector and see if it easily slides out. Just be gentle.

I'm just throwing out a bunch of thoughts and hopefully one of them leads to the answer.

 

It's arching. If the fuse is still intact, I'd suspect it's a loose connection. Both the pins need to be replaced.

 

All of the wires are getting power when I pierce them directly.
But when I touch the meter to the connector (the piece in the picture included) only some are reading that they are getting power

 

The terminals have lost their ability to be conductive because they're arch burned. You can probably splice the wires, bypassing the connector temporarily.But they should be replaced.

 

What should be replaced

The entirety of the wires
Or the connector

 

The connector is probably fine. The pins need to be replaced.

The cheap involved route would be to disassemble both male and female connectors, remove the two pins. Solder two replacement pins in their place. Reassemble.

Expensive would be for a new harness.

 

I have those pins. But they're on a moving truck. I won't be able to access them til early December. FWIW.

 

Update:
I undid the connecter and checked all of the wires and the connector for power.

I put it back together and now suddenly the power locks and power windows are all working except for my drivers window

 

It'll be temporary. Once an arch-fault occurs the connection is compromised.

 

If you cleaned up all the crud / carbon deposits off both connectors and tightened up the female side so its a more snug fit you might be okay. I think it all depends on how badly the connector pins were damaged and how well you're able to clean them off. Like License2Ill mentioned replacing the connector pins is the safest route . . . if you can figure out who makes them and the part number. If you're lucky there will be some vendor name and part number marking on the connector housing and you can use that information to determine the part number for the crimp pins.

 

http://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-...h-2012-2014/?gclid=CITKyICf6s8CFVJahgodMTIHig

 

Is this a 'modern' feature of your '17? I've had power windows across various marquees since the late '80's, none of them had any 'reset' nonsense.

 

Another update
Still no idea why it suddenly all started working again (minus drivers window). But I thought that was suspicious, so I popped the master switch all apart and sure enough found that the actual switch on the motherboard was just out of place. I lined it back up with the other ones, popped it back together and boom...that shit works....y'all are probably right that it is temporary, so I'm gonna buy the new master switch from switch doctor and try to find the new connector and all that shit as a back up for the next time. Thank you gentlemen for your help.

 

Sweet man!