Urd short shifter 2016+

2nd gen 5 spd with 100k or so on my URD SS. Nice difference. No install issues. No metal cutting. Did front 2 from under the truck. No special wrenches or bolts. No notchy feel. No reverse issues regardless of temp. Not abusive with shifting but definitely has been sported about on regular occasions. Daily driver in 30 miles of crawling metroplex rush hr traffic in afternoons so it does get a workout.

 

Tough to get at the bolts from under the truck when you have a T- case, and front driveshaft blocking access. I'd imagine 2wd gives a bit more working space.

 

Yeah good point. Maybe just a thicker layer to compensate for it rubbing off some and then wiping it off around the edges. Keep me posted as you will likely have this installed before me.

 

patiently waiting for results and feedback. If outcome is positive I'll definitely have one of these waiting for my TRDOR when it arrives in December.

With the shift lever out, would this be a good time to do a trans fluid replace? Even on a brand new truck, I'd love to drop in some high quality gear oil to make sure fluid level is within spec.

 

I am imagining you are imagining correctly.

 

dont be silly. the drain and fill plugs are easily accessible with the truck on a lift. whats "high quality gear oil" in you mind? you are scaring me friend

 

Don't have a lift. I have a concrete floor garage and a creeper.

I'm not sure what clearance there is on the taco, but filling from below often requires messy reverse gravity pumps and a system of hoses. Its a pain. Rather fill through the shifter if the opportunity is there to do so.

As for gear lube, there are all kinds. Royal purple, redline, motul come to mind. Often times a fluid change can improve shift feel significantly. Unless you subscribe to the idea that manufacturers always put in the best of everything and nothing should be changed or improved upon.

 

bob the oil guy proved many of those oils are subpar at best and you pay for the name. since the level check is to the fill plug, idk how youd ever get it right without touching the fill plug which is right on the side of the transmission

 

I guess you could open the fill plug and then fill from the top until it starts pouring out the open plug.

 

Just sounds like much more work and id always rather make a mess in the garage than interior of my truck. I dont even put closed bottles of atf in my truck! That shits nasty and the stank lingers

 

I've used them myself in various situations with great results. In high mileage applications and track prepped cars. Plenty of people swear by them. Dunno who the heck bob thinks he is

Did toyota decide to stop putting fill capacity specs out there for their vehicles?

 

anyway, sorry to side track this thread! Looking forward to results from the shifter installs.

 

Alright so I removed the shifter assembly. Trid to do a dry run with the spacer/shifter. Like I said before the bolts are 2 1/4" OAL. From tranny top to tunnel is 2 1/4". There is absolutely no way to get the bolts into the hole with the dowel pin in the way. Can't get the bolt up and over it. I ran over to Ace hardware to pickup a 45mm long bolt vs the supplied 50mm. This did the the trick, however I'm now concerned with having the proper amount of thread engagement. Naturally the holes with dowels are counter bored to allow for the dowel to fit inside. This obviously means the threads are well below the mating surface. A few options here. Cut/bend/drill the tunnel, or drop the tranny down a little. I say fuck that shit. To add to all that, my shifter ball bottoms out in the rod socket before allowing the shank of the ball to engage the sides of the socket. Plus the od of the shank measures at .910" , and the socket id measures at .865" so there is no way it's fitting even if it was the correct length. I'm thinking URD gave me the incorrect ball. Do you have access to a caliper or mic to measure yours? I sent Gadget an email, likely closed shop by this time on the East coast.

Edit: With a 45mm bolt it gave me approximately 1/8"-3/16" of thread engagement. In the aerospace industry we typically use the diameter of the fastener as a minimum for thread depth engagement in aluminum. Ideally you want 1.5x diameter. In this case 8mm minimum. Pulling threads can be the outcome. Not an option for a transmission.

 

Oh geez. You have surpassed my technical knowledge as I've never used calipers to measure anything. So youre saying that the shifter does not fit into the transmission properly? As if the ball is too big for the transmission and doesn't seat well? As far as the figment of the bolts, what about bending the metal up a little and then bending it back once it's in? This is my project for this weekend so I hope you find the answer. Gadget called me the other day so I'm sure he will follow up with you.
Today's project was a bed cover install. Gator fx5. Pretty happy with it!!! I'll have to post pics tomorrow once it's light.

 

I'm not sure cutting a bit of sheet metal would cause any harm as long as you seal up the bare metal after. The TRD shifter for 2nd gens had a step in the install guide to remove some metal, although not as much as it looks like you would have to cut. My 15 had lots of room to access the bolts from the top, so it may have only affected older models or something. As for reverse being more difficult, it is, but it's nothing to worry about. This only affects the 6 speed with the tension spring, which really is only there to keep you from accidentally grabbing reverse by adding extra resistance. I'm guessing people commenting on reverse with the 5 speed wouldn't notice any difference.

 

could a button head socket cap screw give a bit more clearance? Or maybe drilling a hole above the bolt location on the sheet metal... either way, I can definitely see some issues there!

 

I got a email reply from Gadget a couple hours ago. Apparently the ball extension is not meant to press all the way into the socket. The white plastic bushing locates the ball inside the socket, and that's it. He said I could pop out the dowel and install in the spacer so it doesn't interfere with the bolt. I had thought about that, but I was hesitant to remove it for fear of crushing or gouging the id of the dowel. I'm going to try that tomorrow.

 

Sounds like a plan! I'm sitting over here wondering why the dowel is even necessary. Couldn't you pull it and toss it out?

 

He emailed today and said they can be eliminated completely. I'm not sure if I agree or not. I did remove one in the front, the other is stuck. I'll likely leave the stuck dowel in rear hole between tranny and spacer. The other will go between spacer and shifter plate. I'm trying to get this "20 minute" install wrapped up tomorrow. It's dragged on for to long lol.

 

Yeah right, "20 minutes", I messed with my center console for an hour alone until I realized it would not come out the same as the one in the directions.