The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

I'll try anything.
Is it available at a store? It'll take 5 days if from Amazon.

 

I'll give this a try. Thanks.

 

Worse case scenario remove the hard line on the axle. Where it's bolted to it. And bend a little for more room.

 

If there is an industrial supply store near you I'd check there first. If not, let me know and I'll overnight a can to you.

 

A 50/50 ratio of acetone and ATF works better than anything you can buy of the shelf. It's an old hotrodder trick.

 

Did you disconnect the frame bracket from the frame? If you do that you'll have better access to the backside of the fittings and can get a wrench on the "square" backside of the fitting. Then you'll be able to "double wrench" which is basically squeezing the wrenches together. I hope that makes sense. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

 

Are using the OME shocks? if you are it's documented that the OME shocks are the same length as stock shocks, you can't overextended anything since the shock limits your droop to factory spec.

 

I'll try this. Thanks.

 

They are B110 Billies. Same one's as Nick, with 27.28" extended length. I also have the same Dakar leafs. So I have no issue with the shocks over-extending. The issue is the current OEM brake lines are now too short and may pull out if/when the suspension goes full droop.

 

Just use some ratchet straps for make shift limit straps, problem solved!

 

Brake Parts!

Below is a complete parts diagram for the brake system for my truck, looks good for 2008-2011. Should be good for any TRD OR 4x4 truck, I would think.

One good thing about Toyota, is they don't charge too much for brake line tubing. It's already pre-bent and flared with flare nuts installed.

Just cut out the old and replace. So fun!

Code:

Name and number Request Price
47311A Way(for Front Brake Tube)
90412-10247
2
US $10.22
47312 Tube, Front Brake, No.2
47312-04140
1


47312 Tube, Front Brake, No.2
47312-04150
1


47312D Way, 2(for Rear Brake Tube)
90412-10248
1


47313 Tube, Front Brake, No.3
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
47313-04200
1


47313 Tube, Front Brake, No.3
47313-04190
1


47313 Tube, Front Brake, No.3
47313-04210
1


47313A Hose, Flexible, No.1(for Front)
FLEXIBLE, NO.1(FOR FRONT)
90080-94073
2
US $19.29
47314 Tube, Front Brake, No.4
47314-04150
1


47315 Tube, Front Brake, No.5
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
47315-04170
1


47315 Tube, Front Brake, No.5
47315-04160
1


47315 Tube, Front Brake, No.5
47315-04180
1


47316 Tube, Front Brake, No.6
47316-04150
1


47316A Hose, Flexible(for Rear Brake Tube)
LH
90947-A2003
1


47316A Hose, Flexible(for Rear Brake Tube)
RH
90947-A2004
1


47317 Tube, Front Brake, No.7
47317-04050
1


47318 Tube, Front Brake, No.8
47318-04110
1


47321 Tube, Rear Brake, No.1
47321-04110
1


47321 Tube, Rear Brake, No.1
47321-04180
1


47323 Tube, Rear Brake, No.3
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
47323-04170
1


47323 Tube, Rear Brake, No.3
47323-04160
1


47323 Tube, Rear Brake, No.3
47323-04180
1


47324 Tube, Rear Brake, No.4
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
47324-04130
1


47324 Tube, Rear Brake, No.4
47324-04120
1


47324 Tube, Rear Brake, No.4
47324-04140
1


47325 Tube, Rear Brake, No.5
47325-04170
1


47325 Tube, Rear Brake, No.5
47325-04200
1


47326 Tube, Rear Brake, No.6
47326-04140
1


47326 Tube, Rear Brake, No.6
47326-04170
1


47327 Tube, Rear Brake, No.7
47327-04060
1


47328 Tube, Rear Brake, No.8
47328-04020
1


47351 Bracket, Flexible Hose(for Front Rh)
47351-04040
1


47352 Bracket, Flexible Hose(for Front Lh)
47352-04040
1


47353B Bracket, Flexible Hose, No.3
47353-04010
1


47354 Bracket, Front Flexible Hose
47354-04010
1


47355 Bracket, Flexible Hose, No.2(for Front)
47355-04020
1


47356 Bracket, Flexible Hose, No.6
47356-04010
1


47356 Bracket, Flexible Hose, No.6
47356-04011
1


47371A Clamp, Brake Tube, No.1
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
90949-A4002
1


47371A Clamp, Brake Tube, No.1
90949-A4003
1


47371A Clamp, Brake Tube, No.1
90949-A1023
1


47371B Clamp, Brake Tube, No.6
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
90949-A4005
1


47371B Clamp, Brake Tube, No.6
90949-A4004
3


47371B Clamp, Brake Tube, No.6
90949-A1024
3


47371C Clamp, Brake Tube, No.1
VSC-WITH(W/AUTO LSD);VSC-WITH(W/DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL);VSC-WITH
90949-A4008
1


47371D Clamp, Brake Tube, No.8
90949-01C95
1
US $4.95
47371F Clamp, Brake Tube, No.10
90949-A1006
3


47371G Clamp, Brake Tube, No.7
90469-A0004
3


47371H Clamp, Brake Tube, No.9
90461-08690
4
US $1.81
90119A0169 New Genuine Part 1


90119A0174 New Genuine Part 1
US $1.15
90119A0178 New Genuine Part 1


90468A0007 New Genuine Part 1
replacement

New Genuine Part
90468-08035
1
US $1.65
9008011199 Bolt (for Transmission Control Cable Bracket) 1
US $0.82

 

Cool. That works! Good luck.

I measured and calculated last night.

• First u-joint operating angle (OA), closest to xfer case: 4.85° Down,
• Second u-joint: 2.35° Down,
• Third u-joint angle is somewhere between 2.45° - 3.9° Down

Which means Pinion angle is within 0.10° - 1.55° of first shaft

I can't get more accurate on the pinion without putting the tucks rear axle on jack stands.

 

Now I have two back up plans.
Ratchet start limiting straps and
Get a shop to do the brake lines for me.
Thanks Nick

 

...or you can seriously simplify things like I did

Front - remove all OE hard and soft lines from the " coil " in the OE hard line above the frame all the way out to the caliper and run one Kevlar line all the way to the caliper with a banjo fitting.


Rear - remove all OE hard lines and soft lines from the junction under the drivers door all the way to the drums, strip everything brake and speed sensor related out and just run Kevlar lines down the same path as your e-brake cables straight to the drums with a banjo fitting. Cut all OE brake tabs off of the axle housing and grind smooth/paint. I wrapped the brake line, wheel speed sensor wires and the e-brake cable together in one nylon braid wrap down each side. So, everything hanging down from the frame to the axle is gone except for my stainless diff breather hose...and look how clean and purdy the axle looks now ( pats self on back ) I had this all done back when I still had leaf springs and the mod works exactly the same.



This was all DIY with help from the team at Crown Performance. I've helped a few other TW members obtain all of the same stuff from Crown to perform the same mods.

 

Thanks for the offer. Let me try the other tips and tricks first.

 

Sounds like a plan. Good luck!

 

Brute Force Fab - High Clearance Bumper with Swing-out tire carrier (inventory and initial impressions)




High Clearance rear bumper with the following customer requested options:

• Cutout for lights
• 2.5" reduction on wings (additional clearance for potential larger tire size).
• Spindle added for swing out gate.
• Heavy-Duty lockable latch
• 130 lbs.

Standard included features (from website)

• Main structure CNC laser cut and formed from 3/16 steel plate then fully MIG welded.
• Frame mounting plates CNC laser cut from 1/4 steel plate
• 5/8 thick steel plate recovery points that fit a 3/4 shackle with a 7/8 pin.
• Hidden 2'' receiver behind the license plate ( flip up license plate bracket not included)
• Tow plug relocated next to the hitch behind the license plate.
• Notches for the use of a Hi-Lift jack
• Re-uses factory license plate lights and 7-pin tow plug and associated hardware

Thoughts on Bumper:

I will review the bumper separately in another post, sometime in the near future.​

Swing out gate, with provisions for the following:

• Dual Jerry can holder
• Hi-Lift Mounts
• Height adjustable spare tire carrier
• 47 lbs. (not including latch, 1.47 lb.)

Thoughts on Gate:

So far, I like it very much. The Gate is stout, the spindle is impressive. Internally, it has a dust seal which has to be driven into the bottom of the spindle cage. Spindle takes two large Timken tapered roller bearings. I had to purchase a 1-7/16" socket for the nylock spindle nut. It was 3/4" drive. The spindle nut is torqued in a way that the gate is firmly attached, it opens with slight resistance (recommended by Billy).
The gate adds another dimension to the truck. Lots of ground clearance was gained by moving the spare. Adds additional options for hauling by hanging gear on gate.
The gate is easy to remove (I can do it by myself). If removed, a plastic bag, grease, and rubber bands can be used to protect the spindle from the elements. Gate has a spring loaded lock, to secure in the open position. Gate when closed is lockable.

Potential downsides of gate:

• Makes hauling anything with the tailgate down, impossible. i.e. long, heavy lumber, a sofa, etc. For those jobs, I'd use another truck, or yank the gate off (About 10 minutes).
• Need about 5' of clearance behind the truck to open the swing out and lock in place to safely drop tailgate.
• It's one more thing to manage to get to the back of the truck.
• Somewhat heavy.
• Loss of backup camera.
  • Option 1 - is to relocate factory installed tailgate camera to swing out (free).
  • Option 2, buy a clone replacement camera on ebay, and OEM wire harness for about $100 total.

​

Dual Jerry can holder

• 10.47 lbs.
• Heavy duty steel lockable cable included with basket (not pictured)

Thoughts on the can holder:

I like the basket design. I don't own any "NATO" jerry cans, and I don't plan to buy any. I have one 5.3 gallon plastic scepter gas can that is rock solid, and it test fit in there fine with room to spare. My other low profile 5-gallon can that I carry, usually goes on the roof, it also fits with room to spare.
I like that it's just a plain basket, and I can put whatever I want in there. The options are nearly limitless.
​

The integrated bracket for basket to bolt up. Looks good, I see a nice canvas for future custom work, sans basket.




Fabricated bolt on Spare tire mount (with forward cant)

• Height adjustable along the gate spare tire tower using 1/2" bolt holes. (see two pics below)
• About 20" of vertical adjustment.
• It appears that the forward cant option may interfere with lowest height adjustment. I chose the highest mounting holes on the gate.
• 7.57 lbs

Aluminum Fold down Table.

• 6.29 lbs

Thoughts on table:

Fairly light weight and sturdy. I'm seeing this get used a lot for back-country cooking. I've rattle canned it black, and will add a textured coating to the surface. Paint is curing now in the SoCali sun. ​

Hi-Lift Mounts


Hi-Lift Mounted


Thoughts on Hi-Lift Mount:

Simple and effective. The mounts are adjustable to accommodate different Hi-Lift beam hole patterns. I can mount the jack with handle hanging down, or rotate jack 180° and mount with handle up. Both orientations work. Tolerances are on the tighter side. Once I had the mounts properly spaced and torqued proper, I then had to figure out where to place the jack along the Hi-Lift beam, to get everything to clear. i.e. gate opens, jack doesn't hit tire holder, basket mounts, gate latch works, etc. I removed my clamp-spreader attachment (extreme version of hi-lift) from the beam, and will pack that into my recovery bin. I did this for a few reasons. First, to reduce weight on the gate (every bit counts). Second, 99% of time I don't need it. Third, It has a "bling" factor and my truck doesn't need that. haha​

 

That's a lot of bumper.