Closed 20% Off Supercharger Group Buy 2nd Gen 4.0 Engine

jberry813 · Nov 14, 2016

lawless said: ↑

did you decide where you are going to put the Blue Sea fuse box? I see you elected not to mount the intercooler reservoir in the alternate location.
Click to expand...

The resi is in the instructed spot for those with a brake booster (which mine has).
I moved the blue sea box to above where my battery used to be. My batteries are relocated to the bed.

Biscuits · Nov 14, 2016

scocar said: ↑

On my 1st gen when it was time to new rotors and pads, I went with Centric. I was thoroughly impressed. The guy who test drove it before buying it almost put himself through the windshield the first time he hit the brakes. Not grabby, just commanding. I've been thinking about putting them on the 2nd gen. Brakes just suck ass on this truck. At least the suspension sucks ass, too. And I'll be adding a fair bit of weight, not to mention when fully loaded and mountain towing.
Click to expand...

I like Centric too. Remember using them on my Silverado and bring happy with them.

Ultimately, there are plenty of options out there that are far and away better than the OEM brakes which, and I agree with you, blow dead bears.

HellfireTacoma · Nov 14, 2016

Just got the supercharger delivered! Now I play the waiting game until next Monday to get this installed...

jberry813 · Nov 14, 2016

Extra tips for those doing their own install:

As previously mentioned, remove the grill and hood latch stuff as the first step. Makes everything else much easier and less painful.
You will need 3 gallons of coolant. I didn't drain the block and ended up using about 2.5 gallons.
Step 40 says E5 internal torx. It's wrong. It's an E7. Double nut method works too should the internal torx sheer off (don't ask).
Lubriplate grease for the water manifold is included in the kit. It's in a separate bag with some other shit and easily missed.
You can skip steps 31 and 32. It basically says the same thing in step 119 and it's more clear if you don't do steps 31 and 32.
At least with my kit, the reduced shank bolts for step 124 were not attached to the top cover. They were in a separate bag.
There are some unmentioned parts in the kit as well. There are two black spacer and longer bolts. Those are extensions for the horns to keep the horns off the intercooler.
I didn't have to do step 180. The new hood latch support had a hole that the tab recessed into.
The fuse t-tap thing is kinda shitty. I suggest hard wiring it.
For step 226, after you bend the bracket to suite your needs, I suggest removing the VSV again and do steps 227-231 with it loose. Not a lot of room in there. Just bolt it back in when you've got everything attached.
If you're unsure if you did the BD flash correctly, you call BD support and they can tell you if you did it right. You give them the year of your truck and they will have you go into settings and read off the System Info #, software version, and status.

Oh yeah. In step 239, do not forget to plug back in the MAF. Truck runs like shit and you throw check engine lights if you forget.

TacoCat · Nov 14, 2016

Truck just threw a P0101 on the way home from work. Cleared it with my UG and it hasn't come back on yet but I didn't drive far before I got home. Any ideas?

kh7nm · Nov 14, 2016

TacoCat said: ↑

Truck just threw a P0101 on the way home from work. Cleared it with my UG and it hasn't come back on yet but I didn't drive far before I got home. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Check your mass flow sensor dirty

TIM.TRDSparks · Nov 14, 2016

P0101 generally has to do with air

jberry813 · Nov 14, 2016

That's also the code you get if you don't plug the MAF back in......

TacoCat · Nov 14, 2016

Ill go clean it now. Wont be able to see if it helped till tomorrow though. Thanks guys

loginfailed · Nov 14, 2016

TacoCat said: ↑

Ill go clean it now. Wont be able to see if it helped till tomorrow though. Thanks guys
Click to expand...

When I went to pick up lunch today, mine set a P0101 also. I drove the shit out of it Sunday on multiple trips so it should have set the code already.

This morning I made the mistake of installing the K&N filter. Shouldn't have done that, I think the oil on the filter causes the P0101. I cleaned the MAF tonight and swapped the factory paper filter in. I'll see if that makes a difference.

loginfailed · Nov 14, 2016

scocar said: ↑

On my 1st gen when it was time to new rotors and pads, I went with Centric. I was thoroughly impressed. The guy who test drove it before buying it almost put himself through the windshield the first time he hit the brakes. Not grabby, just commanding. I've been thinking about putting them on the 2nd gen. Brakes just suck ass on this truck. At least the suspension sucks ass, too. And I'll be adding a fair bit of weight, not to mention when fully loaded and mountain towing.
Click to expand...

I've used Centric's "High Carbon Alloy" rotors on the last few BMWs if had. It's a pretty decent rotor for the price. For pads I've had good luck with Akebono ceramics. They stop decent and don't dust up the wheels too much.

eon_blue · Nov 14, 2016

loginfailed said: ↑

When I went to pick up lunch today, mine set a P0101 also. I drove the shit out of it Sunday on multiple trips so it should have set the code already.

This morning I made the mistake of installing the K&N filter. Shouldn't have done that, I think the oil on the filter causes the P0101. I cleaned the MAF tonight and swapped the factory paper filter in. I'll see if that makes a difference.
Click to expand...

K&N filter? I had one of those on my last truck and it toasted my MAF sensor from all the oil and crap, never again

Glad to hear a few of you are enjoying your boost already Anyone with a manual trans noticed any issues with the stock clutch and shifting in the higher RPM range?

Biscuits · Nov 14, 2016

loginfailed said: ↑

I've used Centric's "High Carbon Alloy" rotors on the last few BMWs if had. It's a pretty decent rotor for the price. For pads I've had good luck with Akebono ceramics. They stop decent and don't dust up the wheels too much.
Click to expand...

IIRC Akebono makes the OEM Toyota pads.

lawless · Nov 14, 2016

yeah, i don't think i'll be using that K&N either. i had one on my '96 Tacoma and i thought it was the shit, though. i want to say Akebono was OEM for brake pads back then too.

good to hear the installs seem to be as reasonable as can be expected from reading the guide. some software upload issues and a bit of a headache moving around previously installed goodies and Bob's your uncle. for those of you who have never encountered high rent and space issues like we have in the Bay Area a supercharged situation under the hood is comparable. i think i'll just tape the intercooler reservoir somewhere

i was shooting for a turkey day install but i'm inclined to hit it up this weekend. question: what size pulley puller should i rent from LAPS (local auto parts shop)? these are my choices:

tacomavoyager · Nov 14, 2016

@loginfailed what puller did you end up using?

loginfailed · Nov 14, 2016

tacomavoyager said: ↑

@loginfailed what puller did you end up using?
Click to expand...

OEM 25914
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/parts-puller-installer/oem-jaw-puller/141513/

https://www.carid.com/oem/2-3-5-ton-jaw-puller-mpn-25914.html

$50 OEMTOOLS 25914 2 Jaw 5 Ton Puller, Essential Automotive Repair Tool for Steering Wheel, Bearings, and Pulleys Removal, Featuring Reversible Jaws for Inside and Outside Pulls, Durable Construction

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHL6M

Used a Craftsman 3/8" drive 1/2" socket to press against the shaft. Slightly smaller than the SC shaft. Nearly a perfect fit.

EDIT: FYI, I did use an impact gun on the puller and a prybar to counter-hold it so the thing wouldn't turn.

lawless · Nov 14, 2016

sweet, thanks

TacoCat · Nov 15, 2016

loginfailed said: ↑

When I went to pick up lunch today, mine set a P0101 also. I drove the shit out of it Sunday on multiple trips so it should have set the code already.

This morning I made the mistake of installing the K&N filter. Shouldn't have done that, I think the oil on the filter causes the P0101. I cleaned the MAF tonight and swapped the factory paper filter in. I'll see if that makes a difference.
Click to expand...

I've been running an AFE stage 2 CAI for years now with the dry filter and no CELs ever. I cleaned the MAF, and I also pulled the plug in the opening on the front of the CAI, thinking maybe it was being starved for air coming from the fenderwell. No CEL this morning, but yesterday it didn't hit till my drive home. I'll give it a few days. If it happens again, would disconnecting the battery for a while help?

TacoCat · Nov 15, 2016

eon_blue said: ↑

K&N filter? I had one of those on my last truck and it toasted my MAF sensor from all the oil and crap, never again

Glad to hear a few of you are enjoying your boost already Anyone with a manual trans noticed any issues with the stock clutch and shifting in the higher RPM range?
Click to expand...

I am a manual and I have definitely noticed shifting issues. I think I just need to adjust my shifting patterns, or just slow down and take my time shifting a little more.

TIM.TRDSparks · Nov 15, 2016

Look at what we got in today! Who wants some pulleys for their superchargers?

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