2017 Full Active Audio Upgrade, keeping entune

my decision for selecting the bit ten over bit one dsp was pretty simple, 8 vs 5 outputs and only needed 5, much lower price point and with all the same basic tuning.

here's an old post on diyaudio that points out some of the differences

 

Thanks for the link,It was very helpful. I haven't ordered all my parts yet but after reading this and of course the lower price point I'll have to rethink this

 

Bit one and Bit ten are both awesome processors. I run a Rockford 3Sixty.3 which is fantastic. Then you have the Arc Audio PS8, Helix DSP Pro, Alpine, PXA-H800, so many good DSPs out there. I think the Helix is the most comprehensive with the capability to go high level, low level, or digital in to 10 channel output, but good luck finding one. So many tuning options, but almost everything needs a microphone or mic array in order to get properly tuned, which most people just don't have access to. Alright, the tech nerd in me is done.

 

I have done a similar build to what you're wanting to do on my 16' DC. I kept my factory HU and added a bit ten (not D) with the DRC. I am running full active plus a 8 inch sub behind the rear seat. My goal was also to stay within a budget, therefore I used Noico sound deadener from Amazon. Up front I am using hertz high energy 6.5 and a Boston pro 8 inch sub (its old but sounds great). I usually bypass the factory unit and use the aux feature on the bit ten. The coolest part of this is that my phone still connects to the bluetooth and all the song info shows up on the headhunit but the sound is coming out of the aux on my phone. Hopefully next week I will be adding an airport express to help eliminate cables and so I can charge my phone will listening to music since Apple wasn't kind enough to provide a headphone jack on the 7. If I still want to listen to xm or the radio, I just switch the input on the bit ten.

In terms of tuning the bit ten, I had an audio shop time delay the speakers for the driver seat. I still need to have the shop do the EQ.

Also, I if I were you, I would not bother with upgrading the rear speakers since you don't have enough channels on the bit ten and also you can't hear them. Mine are still there and i just fade to the front and use the volume on the DRC. When I do have rear passengers, I just reset the fade and use the factory HU volume.

 

Real time Spectrum Analyzer (RSA) of Entune HU and stock speakers using mic positioned at drivers side headrest


naked and factory 6x9's removed



deadening and 6.5" installed





dsp and amp metal mounting bracket installed


amp placed under passenger seat

 

dash tweeters installed


10" sub enclosure built and installed. Approx 3/4" gap with seat


sub volume under arm rest

 

dsp crossover tuning:
sub 30 to 80 Hz
woofer 80 to 2500 Hz
tweets 2500 to 20K Hz

no clipping at 15v

 

Agree. That was my plan right to the end as well, but then after holding one of the crappy factory speakers in my hand, just didn't feel right leaving the OEM's installed with the rest of the system. Only spent $57 on the 6.5" kickers and exchanged primarily on principle. For quick second thought about a bit one and hooking the rears into an active channel, but common sense prevailed, not worth the time and effort.

 

Might do my rears now if it was only 57 just for fun. Turned out great though. Congrats on the build!

 

while everything was torn down also installed these

2015 - 2016 Tundra Tacoma LED OEM SET Cargo Bed Lighting 00016-34089

OEM truck bed LEDs , much brighter than I expected. Wire loom runs along frame into cab, under the step panel, behind kick panel, then connects into truck bed light switch harness. Wire is soldered instead of using the crappy posi tap supplied with the kit




2016+ install instructions attached...

 

was this a measuring with a microphone and stock speakers or speaker level out? given it's an RTA i am guessing microphone

 

Slowcoma, as you suspect installer indeed used a mic positioned in the drivers head rest connected to the RTA

 

Did you deadening the inside of doors as well?

 

gotcha, so that meter is representing the stock speaker output. worse than i thought... thank you!

 

yea went a little crazy with the deadening, inside and outside panels, rear wall and the floor. After a week of driving around post install I can tell you made a huge difference with audio on or off, mid to upper Hz is extremely clear driving down the hwy.

 

the most painful part is you know you can't deaden the glass without going armored $$$$

 

The weak link for sure, 1/8" thick glass is absolutely terrible for sound stoppage. Molded polycarbonate windows would be better. Do any of the various window treatment films provide any sound stoppage?

 

not that i know of. glass is always the weak link in home and car systems. mid-high frequency reflective, absorbs low energy from subs....it's terrible.

 

I went with a similar setup. Just opted for a behind the seat setup with a JL audio W3 sub. Boy let me tell you! It has made a world of difference in sound quality. The best part is that I still have my stock Etune head unit which isn't bad and all the functionality is still there. Any one thinking of doing this, I highly recommend. Mine was installed by Sound Delux in San Diego ca.

 

nice setup GD Tech! This will definitely help bring you a big smile each time you jump into your truck...