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Exhaust Gasket Replacement

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by SH7mi, Dec 1, 2016.

  1. Dec 1, 2016 at 10:02 AM
    #1
    SH7mi

    SH7mi [OP] YotaWerx Pro Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    I searched TW for an hour or so and found no 'How To' on exhaust gasket replacing. I am not a car mechanic by any stretch but do what I can to save $. I have a 2008 TRD Sport DBL cab LB all stock, 6 cylinder. The last time in the shop the mechanic said the front exhaust pipe gasket is leaking so I ordered all the exhaust gaskets and figured I could DIY. Anything I need to know , special wrench/ratchet... ??
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Dec 1, 2016 at 10:21 AM
    #2
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Which gaskets?
     
  3. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:18 AM
    #3
    SH7mi

    SH7mi [OP] YotaWerx Pro Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    All the gaskets in exhaust line.
     
  4. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:22 AM
    #4
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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  5. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:29 AM
    #5
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Wizard Sleeve Master

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    Are you doing the exhaust manifold too? Unless that is blown don't touch it, it will be a pain in the ass to change. As for the rest of the gaskets I would only change the leaking one, but if you you wan't to change them all it should be pretty straight forward. If bolts on the exhaust flanges are really runsted you should soak then with penetrating oil the day before - spray every few hours.
    - no special wrenches or tools needed
     
  6. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:31 AM
    #6
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    When your exhaust is cool, use a wire brush to clean the threads on all the bolts. Then spray all the nuts n bolts with lube. None of the exhaust fasteners should be too tight, just maybe a little crusty, especially since you're in PA. The joint in the Y pipe is the one that you'll have trouble with. You'll probably need to break those bolts, it's probably just gonna happen. Be prepared with some stainless fasteners there. The exhaust manifold is painful, but as long as you have patience, you'll be ok. Just remember when you're tightening everything up on the manifold, start with the middle fasteners and work your way out ward. Those only get about 13ft#'s of torque, so you don't need to crank them down. If you use a 1/4" ratchet, you'll just need give em one grunt a piece.
     
    Manfred and Dalandser like this.
  7. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:49 AM
    #7
    SH7mi

    SH7mi [OP] YotaWerx Pro Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    Thank you gents,
    Sorry if my original description was not correct. I have 4 new gaskets I am replacing, from the diagram given to me these gaskets are on each side of the Cat. I will post a pic of the diagram.
    Thanks again for the advice.
     
  8. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:54 AM
    #8
    SH7mi

    SH7mi [OP] YotaWerx Pro Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    The circled gaskets are those being replaced

    IMG_1689.jpg
    IMG_1689.jpg
     
    jgalvar likes this.
  9. Dec 1, 2016 at 11:59 AM
    #9
    Texoma

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    For the "green" gasket, those bolts are going to break. Replace them with stainless. The others are no big deal, still wire brush n lube before removing. Torque spec for all those is 32ft#'s
     
  10. Dec 1, 2016 at 12:01 PM
    #10
    SH7mi

    SH7mi [OP] YotaWerx Pro Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    Copy that and thank you.
     
  11. Dec 1, 2016 at 12:01 PM
    #11
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    Oh and lube the exhaust hangars, it'll help in removing them.
     
  12. Dec 4, 2016 at 3:25 AM
    #12
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I don`t even try I just cut all the bolts off .

    The winter chemicals have a habit of rusting the nuts and bolt heads so even the correct size 6 point socket has a habit of just rounding things off

    The liquid brine does a number

    If cutting them off might not be a option the Irwin Sockets for rounded fastners are great to have

    If your exhaust is leaking are you getting the PO420 code??

    Good luck
     
  13. Dec 14, 2018 at 7:17 AM
    #13
    brownoarsman

    brownoarsman Well-Known Member

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    I know this thread is both old and was originally about a second gen, but I'm doing a similar gasket job on my 1st gen PreRunner V6 and was wondering if anyone could confirm the exhaust gasket part number for the gasket in green below (the FSM just says gasket, with no part #!):

    I used a Walker 31332 Exhaust Gasket as Amazon said that would fit the truck and some commenters on Amazon confirmed that it fit theirs, but the metal ring inside the gasket and the gasket itself was noticeably smaller than what was in there before. However, it fit the muffler side indent much better pressing it in, albeit with the inner metal ring fully inside the circumference of the exhaust pipe, and it seems to have sealed up no problem. I'm wondering if the previous gasket was the wrong size, as it was well blown and caused some damage to the flanges. Thanks!


    ink.jpg
     
  14. Dec 18, 2018 at 2:44 AM
    #14
    Tacorific

    Tacorific Well-Known Member

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    For Posterity:
    I agree with Amo-cat3, "As for the rest of the gaskets, I would only change the leaking one,"
    I wouldn't mess with the ones that aren't leaking.
    I agree with Wyoming09, "I don`t even try. I just cut all the bolts off"
    You can have the bolts off in a matter of minutes (or seconds), if you know what you are doing with an Oxy/Acetylene torch. A Saws All will also work, but is a lot more difficult to maneuver under the truck, unless you have a lift.
     
  15. Jan 16, 2019 at 8:09 PM
    #15
    kyledamon

    kyledamon Well-Known Member

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    OP, how did this work out for you? I need to do the same thing..
     
  16. Jan 16, 2019 at 8:11 PM
    #16
    kyledamon

    kyledamon Well-Known Member

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    Do you happen to know what size stainless hardware? Or should I just wait till I break one and go down to the hardware store?

    9CD62212-1701-4691-8FED-65901D689A9B.jpg

    I got three of these leaking..
     
  17. Jan 17, 2019 at 3:43 AM
    #17
    Texoma

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    I forgot what size I used, but I drilled the holes out larger and matched the hardware. I think I used 3/8"
     
    kyledamon[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Jan 17, 2019 at 3:53 AM
    #18
    SH7mi

    SH7mi [OP] YotaWerx Pro Tune PA MD DE NJ

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    It went ‘ok’... I snapped off one of those odd shaped bolts on the first flange. I removed the other 5 no problem. I replaced all 3 gaskets, bolted 5 of the 6 and had the dealer remove and replace the one I broke.
     
    kyledamon[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jan 17, 2019 at 4:12 AM
    #19
    kyledamon

    kyledamon Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good man, makes me feel a bit more confident. Thanks!
     
    SH7mi[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  20. Jan 3, 2021 at 10:27 PM
    #20
    Tacomarocker

    Tacomarocker Active Member

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    I’m going to use dremel cut them off if I have to? Doing clutch pressure plate hydraulic tb as soon as I get the correct gaskets Toyota’s ones are hella expensive does any have a cheaper suggestion to better or cheaper aftermarket ones?
     

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