Am I doing (wiring) this right? ((lights))

It's about time I hook up some lights to my Tacoma.

After gathering information and researching, I will be wiring an accessory fuse box. I want to know if I am/will be doing this correctly before I begin.

I'll include "step" numbers to make it easier to pinpoint and correct errors.

So, I will mount the fuse box somewhere, then connect it to my battery's positive(1).
I will ground my lights, switch, and relay(2). or do I not need a relay if I'm going to use an acc. fuse box?
Then connect the light and the switch's positive to the relay(3).
Then connect the relay to the fuse box(4). but wouldn't I still need an add-a-fuse here to connect to the fuse box??



edit: ORIGINALLY, I was going to ground the lights, then connect the positives to a relay. Ground the relay, and connect this to an add-a-fuse in the under-dash box. Then connect the relay to the grounded switch.
then I was suggested to add a fuse box if I plan on adding other lights eventually, which I do, and got confused from there.

 

@GHOST SHIP

 

There's a few things going on here that we should address. I would recommend bench testing all of this prior to actually installing and routing wires in the truck just save you some headache.

1. skip wiring the fuse box to the battery. Do that last so you don't accidentally spark somewhere while working.

2. The fuse box does not take the place of a relay. If your accessory needed a relay prior to doing your own wiring, it will still need one after. If you don't know if your accessory "needs" a relay, my general rule of thumb is that most switches are only rated to 20 amps- anything at 15 amps or higher, I use a relay. While some accessories will still function without it, you are protecting your switch and wiring from overload and possibly burning the truck down by using a relay. A lot of guys will probably say, "I use LED pods without a relay all the time." and they are right, but I'd rather play it safe with my $30k+ truck.

3. yes

4. You might be using the term "add-a-fuse" incorrectly. This is an add-a-fuse:

It "adds" a secondary circuit to a pre existing fused line.

I think you mean in-line fuse. This is an in-line fuse:

It places a fuse in line with a circuit you are building. You wont need an in-line fuse to go to the new fuse box you are adding. The box takes the place of the fuse and there is no need to double up. While it wouldn't hurt anything, it's redundant and you're not adding more protection that what is already provided by the fuse in the box.

I hope this answers you questions.

 

See this is why I tag you brother

 

I'm here to help, Rick. This guy did his homework before asking, that's why I tried to be thorough. Not just, "What size tire can I fit?"

 

Sweet, very help, Ghost Ship. Thanks Unchained for tagging him.


So, is this right?

Accessory fuse box, wired to power (last).
Lights and switch to relay
Relay with in-line fuse to fuse box
Success?

 

Will my Rough Country lift be enough to fit 35s?

 

Skip the in-line fuse, but yes, that should be good.

 

Where did the inline fuse come into play, then?
Would that only be for if I didn't use the fuse box?

 

What sort of fuse "box" are you getting? Bussman? Blue Sea?

 

Correct. The fuse box is your "fuse". You only need one or the other, not both.

^Good question. The information I provided is assuming you were using a Blue Sea box or similar.

 

$11 True Mods 6 Way Blade Fuse Box for Automotive [ATC/ATO Blade Fuses] [100 Amp][LED Indicator] [Protection Cover] [10-30V DC; 12V] Auto Marine Fuse Block

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00QMTA...lid=1GY5RB93435HQ&coliid=I1C7RATOPNXT7X&psc=1

There's many on Amazon. Cheap, too.

 

Another question..Is there a way to disconnect the battery w/o losing the odometer/tripmeter/radio data? I hate when that happens.

 

Yeah that'll work about the same as a Blue Sea panel. I'd recommend you bus all your grounds together for your relays and such, cause running all those grounds would be a pain in the ass.

 

Odometer wont go away. Trip might reset but a lot of radios have a backup usually to protect your presets if disconnected for short period


The short answer is "no".

 

Well dammit to hell.

What would you recommend doing? /how?

 

I have this one specifically but a search on Amazon for "bus bar" or "blue sea bus bar" will give you a lot of options.

$17 Blue Sea Systems 2314 100 Amp Mini BusBar with 5 screws and a cover

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-2315-Terminal/dp/B000OTJ89Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480641370&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+bus+bar&th=1
EDIT: i actuall got mine for $9 if I remember right, cause it was a separate one with no plastic cover that was cheaper.

Basically just run your grounds to the bar, and then run a common ground wire to a ground point.

 

Awesome.

Thank you guys a lot. This has really helped and cleared up everything.

 

Question. I found out my switch does not have a ground, and I shouldn't try to ground it...however, it is just a basic switch and not illuminated.
Can this still be used? How?