*Closed* 20% Off Supercharger Group Buy 2nd Gen 4.0 Engine

I may end up with the TRD flash as well.

As far as running the wires, I used the factory grommet on the driver side. There's a lot of extra space in it to poke wires through. I used one of these:

Thexton THE436 Wire Insertion Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE4...000P9IGCA?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q

 

If you want to see a real life example of this, go to your local mall before all the stores officially open.

Herds of women will "power" walk the interior perimeter (if it's an indoor mall) until the mall officially opens. Then they'll cap their morning exercise by making a beeline to whatever mall food vendor sells icing stuffed cookies and diet Coke/Dr. Pepper.

In my youth they were known as the "Mall Walkers".

 

Here are a few pictures of the URD TCAI. Added a bracket that I had in the junk drawer. It kicked it out just enough to clear the intercooler. Cut about 2 in off the top pipe that connects at the throttle body and cut more sheet metal where the intake comes through the front by the radiator. Pretty pleased with how it looks. Fits with my PRO grill.

 

we're building the same truck!

I just have the pump harness, reinstall air cleaner, fill, tune and test. the install has been super fun so far thanks to all the helpful posts in this thread.

time for lunch and to return the fan clutch tool I borrowed to jerry rig and torque the crank bolt. that part sucked a bit. the OEM bolt on my '12 had red shit like the one someone else posted. i'm calling j-spec Loctite.

 

how's the clearance with the grill?

 

Here are a few pictures. Kinda hard to get my phone in between the grill. The last one is a shot from underneath.

 

Thank for all the pictures @tacomavoyager

 

So what ended up being the issue that prevented the dealer from flashing it the first time around? I'm curious because I'm considering the TRD flash as well.

 

Are you still having the hesitation/fuel issues? Hopefully it is not your pump.
I'm not sure what they did. They fiddled with it all day Friday (I had to drop off and leave it). They finally just said screw it, and re-flashed the ECU to the correct calibration per my request. The whole time, their tech stream was saying that I already had the correct flash.
The only thing I can think of, is that the bully dog tune identifies itself as the (in my case) 3YWG3400 flash. It is obviously not the same as the TRD flash. I am thinking BD does this to trick Toyota so if someone takes in their vehicle for service, the ECU will not get updated. This is just speculation on my part though. Whatever the BD flash did to my truck, it didn't like it at all. The Toyota flash feels much better.
If you still have your stock ECU loaded on the BD SD card, I would uninstall all BD tune altogether, put your ECU back to stock, and then get them to flash the ECU. I find it very strange though that many people have used the BD with no problems whatsoever, and here I sat for weeks with the proverbial egg under my skinny pedal, for fear it would hesitate. Maybe my update didn't take, even though it said everything was successful. Who knows.

 

I haven't even messed with the truck other than when I installed the AFR gauges. It basically runs perfect as long as it's not in boost. When the boost goes up it falls on its face and the both widebands read 18+ AFR.

I was hoping Speedhut would hurry up and send my fuel and oil pressure gauges, but the order still says Art Dept. They had a 20% off Black Friday sale so I guess they're swamped right now.

I ordered the fuel rail tap and oil filter sandwich plate from URD and they came in the other day. I'll probably install those today so I'll have a good spot to test fuel pressure and oil pressure.

I also made up a new Mechanical gauge setup made from Russell 6 -AN fittings and long length of braided line with an Aeromotive gauge on the end. I'm going to tape it to my windshield and drive the truck to observe fuel pressure under boost.

I did take out the fuel pump again to make sure the rubber line wasn't kinked. It looked like it was OK, but I modified (drilled an extra hole) the top of the pump bucket so the line can make a straighter run to the top plate.

I have some vacation time I need to burn before the end of the year so I'm going to be messing with the truck more in the coming week. If I can verify I have good fuel pressure, I'll either be on the phone with Magnuson and Bully Dog until it gets resolved or I'll be heading to my dealer to get the TRD flash.

It's a shame that things aren't plug and play in every situation but I'm not sweating it. I'll get it worked out. In the mean time I've been looking at lifts, wheels, tires, bumpers etc.

 

That's a bummer that you're running so lean at boost. I really think it's the tune. I am a manual, but I would assume that BD would have the exact same tunes for our vehicles, minus the shift points in my coding.
I probably won't have another free weekend to install my gauges till January unless I take a day off or something.

 

anyone have or know of a good write up for installing afr gauge boost also while we're at it

 

If nobody gets to it before I do mine, I'll try to snap some pics when I get to it.

 

There's really not a whole lot to it.

For the sensors,

For the boost, you have a nipple on the supercharger that has a rubber plug over it. Pull the plug off. Attach the rubber hose that should come with your boost gauge. Run the hose to the sensor that should also come with your boost gauge. Plug in the cable that comes with the boost gauge to the sensor. Run the cable into the cab to wherever you're mounting the gauge.

For the wideband sensor it is pretty much the same. Except you'll be drilling a hole in the manifold and welding on an O2 sensor bung. Depending on what wideband you get, don't install the sensor into the bung until after you've completed the wiring. The reason is that some of the wideband kits like my Innovate LC-2, require a calibration procedure that has to take place with the sensor in a free-air environment. The wideband controller needs a ground and an ignition wire.

For the actual gauges,

For pretty much any gauge you install, you'll need an ignition wire, a ground wire and an illumination wire to power and illuminate the gauge. Ground is pretty easy to find. For ignition, you'll need to locate a fuse in the fuse box that is only powered when the key is in run position. You can use a fuse tap similar to the one used for the supercharger install. For illumination, find a wire that comes on when the parking lights are turned on.

 

Is there anyone that participated in this that's willing to sell a set of stock injectors reasonably priced?

 

Sent PM

 

You can have mine. I put them in a baggie, and had them in the "potential trash" pile. They have just shy of 75k on them. If you find better, no worries.

 

Pm returned

pm sent

 

Just showed up
Time to bolt it up!

 

Mechanical fuel gauge is a solid 42psi while driving. Boost or no boost.