Possible speaker upgrade

I wanna say its 10-15w per channel. Bass falls off as volume goes up as well, hence the active LOC preference.

 

Id suggest doing the speaker upgrade first. See if you like it then you can add an amp quiet easily if you feel the need for more power.

 

That's a good idea

 

Thanks. I think that's what I'm gonna do since I have to take off the door panels to do some sound deadning. I want to do the floors too but haven't decided if I want to commit to taking off the headliner to do the roof.

 

I think it's so much easier to cut the wires and solder rather than to pick at the connections. I don't like using taps and from my experience, getting the signal right after the HU connections are best as some factory systems do not provide a clear or strong signal when attaching LOC by the speakers. I know newer Honda's are like this.

 

To each their own. My signal processor gets a good signal and I didn't have to cut any wires at all. Win/win in my book. I soldered all the connections, no taps.

Sounds like you would be happier with an after market head unit. All I know is my truck is loud and clean and I still have all the integrated options my truck came with. I'm happy with it.

 

I'm sure it's a cleaner looking install. I'm just too lazy and no one else can see it so I cut, cut, cut.

 

Well the OP said he didn't want to cut anything up so that's why I'm here

 

I didn't cut any wires or use an adapter. I used an add a circuit for the remote wire and made my own harness with a relay. Ran 12g wire to all the doors.

I did cut for my steering wheel controls.

 

Did Crutchfield supply the 6x9 adapters?

 

Thanks. I've been thinking about 6x9's as well as I know they have more bass and I'm not going to be running a sub.