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PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by PennSilverTaco, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Jan 7, 2017 at 4:41 PM
    #1221
    shabbs

    shabbs Well-Known Member

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    I switched to fully synthetic on my first oil change... and still change it every 5k.

    So... I'd say yes. Do it.
     
    rmepilot, willee51 and Taco Addiction like this.
  2. Jan 7, 2017 at 4:43 PM
    #1222
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    you're smart.. absolutely synthetic is better and always change it by at least 5k. the maint req light on our tacos is set to illuminate temporarily at 4,500 miles and go solid at 5,000 miles. not only does the syn oil resist burning/leaking past piston rings but it doesn't generate ash/soot (sludge). our engine have timing chains now with a very sophisticated variable valve timing system. good quality oil is essential for the proper life span of chains, guides, vvt-i spool valves, solenoids, etc. i also buy oem filters in bulk (worldpac or imc). my weapon of choice is a full synthetic by a company called MOTUL (i think it's french). we do a lot of MB, bmw, vw/audi and the motul is rated for all those engines
     
    Taco Addiction likes this.
  3. Jan 7, 2017 at 4:48 PM
    #1223
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    long life oil is a scam. i don't want metal particles circulating in my engine for 10,000 miles! after the engine gets over 100k it's going to start burning a little oil (normal) and people don't check the level because they got the extended life stuff. next thing you know the red oil can warning is coming on (or the check engine light w/ variable valve timing codes) and they're wondering what the heck is going on
     
  4. Jan 7, 2017 at 4:55 PM
    #1224
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Yes, full synthetics are proven to protect better. I use either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum switching it up each time because different brands use different detergents and (to me) it keeps your engine cleaner. Also change it every 5K
     
    1Shifter likes this.
  5. Jan 7, 2017 at 4:56 PM
    #1225
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it makes that much difference if you change your oil on a 5k basis. I do use syn oil in machines I don't change the oil on a regular schedule e.g., the snow blower.
     
    jsi likes this.
  6. Jan 7, 2017 at 4:57 PM
    #1226
    shr133

    shr133 Well-Known Member

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    Either way.
    But use a good quality oil.
    I run full synthetic oil, trans and gear oil.
    A good blend is a good way to go also.

    Full synthetic withstands heat better and is better for performance.
    A good blend has better cooling and lubrication.

    I change my oil every 3000-4000 in the cold north...
     
  7. Jan 7, 2017 at 5:06 PM
    #1227
    MTBFLOW

    MTBFLOW Well-Known Member

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    Go Mobile 1 full synthetic, buy from Walmart in the 5QT container, then take it to the dealer to have it changed and ask for the container back... they shouldent charge you more than $15 for the labor and filter.
     
    rmepilot likes this.
  8. Jan 7, 2017 at 5:52 PM
    #1228
    1Shifter

    1Shifter Well-Known Member

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    Same as everybody else...
    This is Exactly what I use....I normally alternate between M1 HM and Penzoil Platinum HM with an oddball Quaker State UD. I always change between 4k and 5k with an OEM filter.At about 32 bucks a shot and about 30 minutes of my time it's cheap insurance. OP...I'd say full synthetic every 5k and let her roll.
     
    mach1man001[QUOTED] and MTBFLOW like this.
  9. Jan 7, 2017 at 6:02 PM
    #1229
    MTBFLOW

    MTBFLOW Well-Known Member

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    Why Penzoil Platinum out of curiosity? Specific detergents?
     
  10. Jan 7, 2017 at 6:13 PM
    #1230
    reefnfeef

    reefnfeef Well-Known Member

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    Don't mean to hijack, but I've been wondering about synthetic gear oil. I am approaching 30k and want to change both diffs, and transfer case oils. The threads I've found on here are based on the LSD that wasn't based on brakes (I have a 2014), and so they used LS additive. Can I use mobil 1 75w-90 LS on my 2014? or do I need to find a synthetic that has zero LS additives?
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
  11. Jan 7, 2017 at 6:34 PM
    #1231
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    i don't think the additive would hurt your open diff. i use a standard 75w-90 (GL5) gear oil..
     
    reefnfeef[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Jan 7, 2017 at 6:44 PM
    #1232
    o0oSHADOWo0o

    o0oSHADOWo0o Just lurking in the darkness

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    Just a few LEDs...
    upload_2017-1-7_21-44-57.jpg
     
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  13. Jan 7, 2017 at 6:47 PM
    #1233
    1Shifter

    1Shifter Well-Known Member

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    Same as everybody else...
    Just a personal preference. Everything I've read is that PP stacks up well when compared to M1. I can usually get it at the local WW for a few bucks cheaper. I don't notice any huge difference between the two, no significant knocking or anything like that.
     
    mach1man001 and MTBFLOW[QUOTED] like this.
  14. Jan 7, 2017 at 7:01 PM
    #1234
    14TACO4X4

    14TACO4X4 Mmmmm... Beer

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    I have a 2014 as well. Changed my front, rear, and transfer case at 25k to Mobil 1 75w-90 gear oil. That'll work fine, no additive needed.
     
  15. Jan 7, 2017 at 9:42 PM
    #1235
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    Yes, synthetic is better. My Corolla uses or leaks a lot more when I use synthetic in it so I've switched back to conventional. This is not conjecture, I've verified it more than once. It usually takes a couple of cycles of conventional oil to get it back to not losing oil. It has about 263,000 miles on it though.

    My Taco, Sienna mini van (wife's) and old T-100 all hold synthetic just fine.

    From what Eric The Car Guys says, Penzoil Platinum is derived from natural gas, so the polymer chain lengths are more consistent. With that said, Mobil 1 full synthetic is excellent oil in my opinion. I even use it on my guns.
     
  16. Jan 7, 2017 at 9:45 PM
    #1236
    BuzzardsGottaEat

    BuzzardsGottaEat Well-Known Member

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    Changing your oil way before it needs it is a complete waste of money. There's absolutely nothing wrong with going over 3-5k IF your driving conditions permit it.

    And always use full synthetic.

    You can check your oil with the dipstick. Not trying to be condescending haha but you can tell if it's dirty with a rag or paper towel pretty quick and save yourself a whole buttload of money.
     
    PennSilverTaco[OP] likes this.
  17. Jan 7, 2017 at 9:47 PM
    #1237
    Sep1911

    Sep1911 Well-Known Member

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    if you've maintained the car you shouldnt really have any sludge issues but I think the snythetic will help clean up what little there may be. The cleaner the engine the better as your seals wont dry out. Also you get better cold start flow.
     
    PennSilverTaco[OP] likes this.
  18. Jan 7, 2017 at 9:50 PM
    #1238
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    My Corolla is 'easy' on oil. Even after 5,000 miles, I can easily see the dipstick through the oil. I use this as a bit of an indicator.
     
  19. Jan 7, 2017 at 10:04 PM
    #1239
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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  20. Jan 8, 2017 at 12:00 AM
    #1240
    BuzzardsGottaEat

    BuzzardsGottaEat Well-Known Member

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    I do a ton of interstate driving in good weather and have gone anywhere from 7500 to almost 10k between oil changes in my little 1.5 L Honda Fit. Kind of nice to go 30k miles in a year and a half and only have three or four oil changes haha.
     

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