Suspension info!?!?!!

Hey guys I'm new to this, all of this.
I've never owned a truck before and Pearl is my very first.
I've been looking into getting a hold of some 3in front strut spacers to lift the front end, want it to sit kinda like a prerunner. But I'm having some concerns. Honest opinion is what I'm looking for and the reason I joined this site. What can I expect with this kit? Should I, or should I not invest in it? Will it affect the ride? Will it have any negative affect on my stock struts in the long run?
I'm trying to avoid a headache so your honesty will be much appreciated. Messing with suspension caused me to destroy my last car (veloster turbo lowering springs).

 

Just stay stock.

 

Prepare to read. A lot!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...2016-tacoma-presented-by-toytec-lifts.395798/

 

You want to just lift the front end 3in?

IMO that is going to look terrible.

 

A spacer lift is hard on components and will ruin the factory ride. If you lift beyond 2.5" you're going to be pushing angles all out of whack. If you want a decent ride stick with a modest lift (2" or less) and put quality components on your truck. What is your budget? If you're in the $1500 range go with bilstein 6112 up front and bilstein 5160s in rear with an Add a leaf (AAL) to level or don't put an AAL and leave the front sitting high.

If you can spend more start looking into Icon or Kings. Go to wheelers offroad or headstrong offroad. See what they have for kits. You can call them and their staff is very helpful and informative in meeting needs.

 

That's the reason I started this thread cause I don't want it to look terrible, thank all of you for your help I'm glad I came to you for advice every shop owner in Vegas seems to care more about money then genuinely helping customers

 

I'll buy my bike back before investing in Kings lol but I wish.

 

You'll spend more money on 3" strut spacers. Because it'll ruin your truck.

Don't do more than a 1" spacer.

Bilsteins 5100s sound like the way to go for you. Cost may be higher.

Don't do spacers. Please.

 

I definitely won't now thanks again.

 

5100s will be an upgrade from the OEM sport ride but the 6112s are coilovers and are not too much more for much better performance

 

Stay away from spacers, I bought my truck used with spacers and couldn't wait to get them off, it made a big clank over bumps, most likely the upper control arm hitting the coil. I bought some bilstein 5100 set at 2.5 and am happier than ever. Dips are like butter. anything Over that height you are messing with the alignment. They say you want new upper control arms with anything over 2". I personally feel ok, it rides really nice off road. I go to dunes in pismo. Yes I would love some aftermarket uca but don't have the funds. But anyways stay wasya from blocks, either leave it stock or get some cheaper end coilovers

 

That's exactly what I wanted to avoid!
I hated the ride I had in my veloster with the lowering springs which led to blown shocks for poor mod choices. I didn't do forums which would've saved a lot of money and I could've kept my bike but at the end of the day I have this beauty of a truck sitting In my drive way which I want to keep right.

 

And I don't have to switch gears and avoid pot holes in Las vegas's God forsaken traffic!
#goodlife

 

I vote for toytec adjustable coils or billies depending on your budget. Old Man EMU is also a good set up as well that work for many on here. If not, you could always just save and stay stock until you are ready. I got kings, and damn if I am not reminded every day how good of a decision that was.

Coot

 

The short answer is, unless you are willing to spend thousands of dollars, don't mess with your suspension's ride height. Here is the scoop. If you change your ride height, you need to fix all of the suspension and driveline geometry you just threw out of whack.

Let's start with the front... Raising the front requires you to correct the roll center, camber gain, bump steer, Ackerman steering, and then an front end alignment. The first 4 cost a lot of money. Don't forget: if you have a 4wd, then you need to correct the driveline geometry you just messed up. Again, money.

Now for the rear... Raising the rear cause less trouble than the front, but you need to be diligent none the less. The most important thing you need to correct is driveline geometry. With a 2 piece driveshaft, there are a lot of angles to be mindful off. These must be corrected when lifting a vehicle. Roll center needs to be considered as well, but this is very minor. Last, a front end alignment to correct the faster you just through out. Finally, you need to test for vibrations in the driveline and correct as needed.

Failing to correct the geometry after a lift results in a realization that you paid money to make your vehicle worse. Though, to be fair, it may look a little nicer.

 

The cold hard truth.

 

Also, it is good to know, shocks only have one purpose: to dampen the springs. You buy a shock absorber (poor choice of a name) around your spring rates and the required durability. that's it. Nothing more.

 

Icon stage 1 is easy to install at home. People think coilovers are hard. It's not.

 

So what is the most conservative lift? I put a steel bumper on and went down about a half inch up front. I don't want to roll around like some dude named Chad with empty Monster energy cans - but would like pre bumper glory.

 

After reading for a month I chose a OME lift from Low Range Off Road. About 1000.00 Paid 450.00 to be installed at a local transmission shop I like. Then to the alignment 60.00. Now I love my truck. Rides like a champ, Looks like a mans truck. Do it...