1st gen Tacoma - 3rd gen 4runner - swapping out valve cover gaskets - **Pictures!**

Decided to do a detailed writeup for swapping the valve cover gaskets on my 2001 4runner.

This job took me nearly two days - It was my first time doing this and I do like to take my time while working on cars. I've been known to start working on a car, leave it alone and come back and finish it a few days later. LOL.

I know some of you are not as patient as me, I just am never in a rush when working on cars.

So this it the list of items needed with Toyota Part numbers:

1. Valve cover gaskets - Part #11213-62020 - 2 Total
2. Spark Plug Tube gaskets - Part #11193-16010 - 6 Total
3. Intake Plenum Gaskets - Part #17176-62040 - 2 Total
4. Washer Seals - Part #90210-05007 - 16 Total
5. Camshaft Plugs - Part #11188-62010 - 2 Total
6. Halfmoon Plugs - Part #11183-62010 - 4 Total
7. PCV Valve Grommet - Part #90480-18001 - 1 Total
8. Toyota FIPG seal packing - Part #00295-00103 - 1 Tube

**Throw the PCV Valve Grommet and Spark Plug Tube Gaskets in the Freezer a night before. I will explain why later**

Mandatory parts picture:



My research links: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/5vzfe-leaky-valve-covers-fixed-56k-beware-149594/

Now let's tackle this job!

First step is removing the airbox assembly, loosen airbox bolts and straps:





unplug mass airflow sensor and any other connectors in the vicinity:



There will be a smaller airbox towards the firewall with some airlines connecting into it, remove the airhoses and the small airbox:





Don't forget the airhoses that run towards the front of the engine towards the piping of the airbox:





Loosening these thinner clamps will help removing the piping to the airbox:







Remove another plug, this one is right besides the accelerator cable:



Three cooling lines will be feeding into the throttle body, these can be removed also:







Another plug:



Remove the accelerator cable off the throttle, this can be done by clocking the body of the spring and sliding it out carefully:



Another picture of everything removed:



Remove the two top nuts that are holding the throttle in position:



Now remove the bottom bolts that are holding the throttle in position:



Pull off the throttle gently, pay real close attention how the metal gasket is oriented. It needs to go back the same way or your truck will explode:



Next, we will remove the upper intake manifold. Make sure to give it a good stare before you start. Nice, hard, evil stare. You're going to own that intake manifold. It's yours. Touch it. Feel it. Be the Manifold:



To remove it loosen these brackets that hold the speedometer cable:



and these other brackets that are on the driver's side of the manifold. (the bracket with the blue paint might need to be removed from the other end if you cant fit a ratchet at the upper bolt):



disconnect this hose at the far end of the manifold, on top:



Next, remove all the other bolts that hold down the intake manifold - Not pictured. Manifold should then come off.



Now time to remove the lower intake manifold -

If for some reason you couldn't take the speedometer bracket off due to it being too congested, you can take it off now:



This stainless tubing has hose attached to the ends, take off the hose. I didn't have to remove the tubing itself, just the hose.




Remove the computer diagnostics port that is attached on the driver's side of the manifold:



At the back of the lower intake manifold, there is a bolt holding the wiring harness, remove it.



At this time, the bolts holding the lower intake manifold can now be removed.



Remove the remaining bolts holding the lower intake manifold down:



Once the lower intake manifold is removed, cover up the exposed intake chambers with a rag, tape, etc to prevent stuff from falling in there. You do NOT want a bolt falling in there. Might as well jump off a bridge:



Moving onto the passenger side valve covers, remove the spark plug wires and coil packs:



disconnect the injectors:



Remove the bolts holding down a wire bracket - This will not be able to be removed completely, but taking the bolts off will make the job easier. It will give you room to work with.



At this time, the valve cover can be removed:



So beautiful, so clean. Thanks to frequent oil changes



At the end of the engine heads there will be a wiring harness attached to a bracket, close to where my hand is at. If you feel around, you will find it. This will need to be removed:



Looks like this:



There are two halfmoon plugs per side:

one in the front:



one in the back:



one camshaft plug in the back that is being held down by two bolts:




The halfmoon plugs can be removed with some channel locks. Gently pry upward. UPWARD. You may wiggle a little. Just not much. Don't want to crack the head.

Removed:





Remove the camshaft plug:







At this time, make sure your supervisor approves your work:

 

After you have received supervisor approval, clean off the old gasket material using any scraping tool. Make sure to scrape well in the areas where the halfmoon and camshaft plugs go:



After that is done get your valve cover and flip it over. The spark plug tube gaskets will now be replaced:



Grab a small screwdriver and tap the gasket from the other side:





Pull out the PCV grommet:



Now remove the old washers seals:



I did this by tapping it from the other end with a small flat head screwdriver:





At this point, go back to the freezer and grab the THREE replacement gaskets and the PCV grommet:



Pop the new PCV grommet in:



Pop the new replacement gaskets in. Some people use a large socket to get them to sit right. Since I froze them, they were able to shrink. Making my job easier:



Sit the new valve cover gasket carefully:



Notice the areas that will need seal packing, this is where the FIPG goes. Be generous. Don't skimp out, you want a nice noticeable ooze when you sit it on the head:



Install with new camshaft plug:



Now goes the halfmoon plugs:



Same procedure, a nice noticeable ooze:



The Toyota manual indicated to add extra FIPG to the indicated locations:



I made sure it was on there





Set the cover on carefully:



Torque the valve cover bolts down to



The procedure for the driver's side is the same as the left, with the exception of a wiring harness section going above the valve covers:



I didn't chase down the harness to see what it was for, I just worked around it.

Once the driver's side is done, install everything as it was removed. Replace the plenum gaskets between the manifolds.



Done!

 

Special thanks to @JWaldz for making me do this

 

Well.

Hmmmm...

There's another excellent procedure!

Thank you very much!

 

You're welcome... But you still didn't take my advice on pulling the injectors to be cleaned while you were in there lol

 

meh.

 

Good job . Aim ready for this project this weekend. .

 

Yes. Sticky.

 

now that's a write-up...

 

Nice write up, pictures are always helpful too.
BTW - how many miles on your engine when you did this? Was is preventative maintenance or did you have leaks?

 

the camshaft plugs were leaking. im at 191k

 

wow very impressive write up! The freezing technique is such a "pro-tip"

Thanks

 

what?... no bloody finger on this one?

cool write-up, especially the parts list with part numbers.

 

no, there was a safety supervisor around. couldn't mess up on this round

 

Nice write-up and cool cat

 

Just had my mechanic perform this last week. I bought this kit and it seemed to work well for the job.

$25 Evergreen VC2034 Compatible With 95-04 Toyota 4Runner Tacoma T100 Tundra 3.4L 5VZFE DOHC Valve Cover Gasket Set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMZ3TJO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8

Again dont skimp on the sealant!

 

Nicely done. Good write up. I'll use it some day. One question . . .

Were there replacement washer seals?

 

Yes. 16 of them. 8 per cover. part numbers are on the list

 

Thanks for this, it will be useful to me soon.