2016 BBP audio build

How/Why is this thread a sticky?

 

Didn't know it was. Why do you care?

 

it wouldn't help if i did.

 

Well I guess you should not worry about it then and go be a little ray of sunshine somewhere else.

 

Hmm, pictures and clear instructions, plans for sub boxes, factory pinouts, couple of vendors adding good information, buncha guys helping each other out...

[sarcasm] Yeah, you're right to ask why this is sticky. [/sarcasm]

 

Probly good for 17 oem radio too? Anyone confirm this?

 

The headunits llok the same as the 16. I'm going to say yes

 

Agreed, the pinouts have been the same for even other gen tacomas. The metra harnesses I used are for older Toyota Tacomas too. As long as you don't have the jbl system

 

I just had everything installed. Still adjusting everything to my liking.

 

shit, we never got to meet up. did you end up going with the JL audio stuff?

 

Sure did!

 

well I'm glad you got it all figured out. sorry I didn't have any time over the weekend.

 

Thanks boys

 

Just realized that I hadn't figured out tweeter mounting plates for my 2014 2nd gen access cab (tweeter in door). So, maybe this'll save someone time if they want to fab up their own plates before tearing into the door.

Not that you haven't seen this a million times, but here's the tweeter as found:



For reference as well, the bracket out, and the bracket all alone:





Now, the template:



Bigger template here: https://s23.postimg.org/khb495o4b/tweet_template.jpg
.pdf here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/30jiqupnsq2i46u/tweet template.pdf?dl=0


If you print it out, and the grid isn't 1/4", then something is wrong. Even so, it's pretty easy to fake it... the center for the tweeter is 1/4" below the line between the two mounting holes. I know I measured it out as being a millimeter off center, but centered would be fine. As far as tolerances go, you'd get away with +1/2" easy on the top and bottom. (There's no lip on the bracket, so no problem overhanging.) I'd stick pretty close to 4-7/16" overall width, though. Clearance holes for the mounting bolts should be 1/4" or maybe 5/16" to give a little wiggle room.

If anyone wants more dimensions/angles on the drawing, just say so.

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Finally, if you happen to have tweeters that need a 2-1/4" hole, you can just cut the old tweeter out of the plate, as noted by this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEbTl6hFq3M


Edit to add one last note: I used 1/8" plexiglass for the tweeter adapter plate and had no issues mounting it in front of the bracket. If you go thicker (not sure how thick is "too thick" -- sorry!), then you might need to tuck the entire assembly behind the bracket, which would mean little bit of cutting. (********* has a notch in their plate, for example.)

 

Have not posted for some time.... loving my system thanks to ALL of your help.

I'm too old for this stuff.... had to google what a sticky thread was. One of the most helpful threads in my opinion, so well deserved

 

Thanks you sir. I'm so glad this has been a help to others. That was my only goal starting it and sharing my experience with my own install.

 

What Head unit are you running?

 

The stock entune touchscreen nav head unit. It's so integrated into the truck I didn't want to do an aftermarket head unit. That's why I used the kicker zxsum8 to take the high level signal to low level RCAs.

 

Hopefully you were talking to me @Dhannah.

 

Had a question about adding this LOC SL2 and its wiring to add an amp and sub. I kept getting pointed to this thread so I think that this would help others as dumb as me