96 tacoma SAS help

Hey I would like some advice from some of the more knowledgeable as to a SAS for my tacoma. I am only 18 but have owned the truck for 2 years and it's been a southern truck and very clean. Recently a set of front and rear 1985 Toyota SA came up for sale in my area. I'm wondering if this would fit up to my truck Some what nicely and how much custom modifications I would need to do. I've never done anything thing like this but have been twisting wrenches since I was a little guy. I am also going to school for welding and know how to weld very avidly. And advice or tips would be a appreciated. - thank you

 

Damn, I did not even have a vehicle when I was 18; let alone thinking about a SAS if I had a truck. You people are way too spoiled

Ok, so I will share my rant about toyota axles. If you search for my posts you will see me saying this over and over again lol. If you can build them for free or close to it (minus the price of the axles in this case), then yea, go for it. For example, if you score all parts free or very cheap, trades, etc. Otherwise, be advised: building toyota axles can be a money spending trap. It seems "cheap" at first, but before you realize it, you will be dumping so much money on them. They need a full rebuilt; and once you start researching how to make them strong as you rebuilt them, that's where the money trap starts. Not worth it in my opinion; because sooner than later you will want bigger tires and will tackle more difficult trails and beat your truck harder; and will regret that you did not get different axles form the start.

End of rant

But to answer your questions; first, you asked how much custom modification you will need to do. A SHIT TON. For starters, you will be cutting off the entire front suspension and placing a straight axle instead under there. Torching the IFS off and grinding the frame until is smooth alone will make you regret the project LOL. The tacoma has a rack-n-pinion steering. you will need to build an entirely custom steering with an older IFS steering box, steering linkages, etc. If you go with bigger than 35" tires, then add hydro assist to the steering system and you are up to another shit ton of work and money.

Yes, you can do a SAS with toyota axles. They are a bit narrow for the tacoma, so you will probably end up using wheel spacers to push the tires farther out. Some people hate spacers (myself included), some say is not a big deal. If it works, it works.

The toyota solid axle has a passenger side differential. So you will need to do one or two things:

• flip the axle, so that the differential is on the driver's side to match your tacoma's left side transfer case output. Some amount of fabrication required to do it.
• Keep the axle as it is but you will need to get a different transfer case with a right hand output. There are adapters you can use to do this conversion.

If you decide to go with the toyota axles, don't bother with the rear. Your tacoma factory rear axle is wider and stronger than the early trucks' axles. Just get the front.

Then you have to decide if you want leaf springs or a link suspension. Mark my words: you will want to go with leaf springs because it seems cheaper at first - and it is in some ways - but you will end up changing your mind and regretting it later down the road. A link suspension has more flex, rides better on the highway, easier to tune, etc. But it costs more $$$$

If you decide to stick with leaf springs, do yourself a favor and get one of the trail gear kits. That way you don't have to go crazy trying to source the individual parts, which can be a frustrating process. Their kits include most of what you need.

Great thing that you can do your own welding. that will save you some money that you can put towards parts.

Good luck. Whether you use leaf springs or a link suspension; or whether you go with a toyota axle or something else; please know it is a HUGE project that will end up costing more than what you initially budget for. Even if you go with leaf springs - the "cheaper" option - and score most of the parts free or get them from junk yards and do all the fabrication yourself; it will still cost a lot of money. Anybody that tells you otherwise is simply lying.

There is a thread at the top of the Solid Axle Suspension that talks about how much it costs in terms of time and money to do a SAS. Spend some time reading it; quite an eye opening and informative thread.

 

Thanks for the input it was very helpful. I knowill it's gonna cost more then I expect be harder then I expect and take longer then I expect just lIke any other garage project does lol. But Im trying to do my research, in my spare time I enjoy reading about SAS as well as general info about my truck but sometimes these no better way to learn then from someone who has been there and done that. That being said if I want SAS not saying it has to be Toyota axle whats the best option? 4 link would be nice. I plan on starting this build when I get out of college for the summer and I have alot of time and second vehicle to drive. I've been saving money to build my truck.

 

The more research you do the better. So this is good!

The first mistake a lot of guys made in the past when it came to axle choice was saying the last infamous words: "I will never go bigger than 35" tires", or "I will never do hard core trails", or "I will never push my truck hard."

Well, guess what. Most people end up going with bigger tires and they end up pushing their trucks harder on more difficult trails.

Axle choice is determined by tire size and your projected use of the vehicle. If just want a more capable rig to do mild trails with 35" tires and NEVER move from that, then the toyota axles can do the trick. You can push 37"s with toyota axles but you really have to build the crap out of them. As I mentioned above...it is not worth the $$$ it takes, IMHO.

On the other hand, if you think there is a remote possibility that you will get crazy serious about off roading, which obviously leads to more difficult trails and bigger tires, then do it right from the beginning and get big ass 1 tons axles and forget about it for the rest of your wheeling life LOL.

But if you stay somewhere in between, I would personally build a dana 44. Because I like wide axles, my first choice would be an old school axle front axle from a late 70s F-250. Those things came with 0.5" thick axle tubes (strong), have driver side differential already, and are full width, which provide great stability - you might need spacers for the rear to match the front. If you build it with chromo shafts and Reid Knuckles you will have a pretty darn strong axle. There are many parts available for Dana axles everywhere.

Another option, if you prefer a narrower axle, is a D44 from a jeep wagoneer. Back when SASs started becoming popular for the tacomas, guys were those axles because they matched the width of the tacoma rear axle almost exactly. Those do not have the thick axle tubes of the old F250s had, but have a driver side differential. A LOT of 1gen tacomas were built with those front axles.

People's opinions will vary. I just think that building a dana 44, mind you, for mild wheeling purposes, is a better use of your money. There are more parts available everywhere, the parts tend to be cheaper, it is easier to work on them, etc.

 

Will thank you! Very helpful my buddies actually has a Dana 44 that he will give me some hearing all that was good but now I'm off to do more research and day dream about a SAS under my tacoma hahahah
P

 

Dont use a d44, that toyota axle is way the hell stronger. Put dual cases in it and wheel it ifs for about 5 more yrs is my advice.

 

I totally disagree about the toyota axle being "way the hell stronger" than a d44. apples to apples both in stock form, the toyota axle might be a bit more reliable. But if one is to start dumping money on either one upgraging knuckles, shafts and all the other crap; the d44 is the better route IMO - especially the late 70s F-250 one with the 0.5" thick tubes. No way a toyota axle is stronger than that axle, even if you gusset the crap out it.

 

Housing maybe, but longs/rcvs are a better bang for your buck than that dana crap, and the toyota axle wins because drop out third. Knuckle wise all you need is histeer arms for the yota axle, the dana you need to find flat top knuckles, have them milled drilled and tapped, and then buy the arms. You could always bust out the check book and order knuckles, but thats a waste on such a turd axle. Toyota axle parts also hold their resale value better than 44 stuff. I would even argue the stock ifs is stronger than a 44, i sure as hell would run it over that 44 crap. The 8" axle is a shitty choice for a tacoma anyway, its way too narrow.

I think you are secretly a jeep guy with the love for d44s and the toyota axle hate.

No matter what it should be duals first, that is hands down the best bang for the buck mod you can do to these trucks.

 

I am NOT a jeep guy in the closet haha LOL

When it comes to axles, yea, I am not the biggest fan of toyota axles. To each his own.

Well, in reality I think 1 tons is the way to go but that's a different conversation haha

you are correct about the transfer case. Having lower gears in the transfer case is certainly the best mod anybody can do.

 

Through some one tons under it. Done.