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Help! UCA replacement

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Dimestore55, Jan 29, 2017.

  1. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:22 AM
    #1
    Dimestore55

    Dimestore55 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've been smashing the uca with a dead blow hammer trying to break the ball joint loose and it wont budge. Is there a trick, or should I just go get a separator?
    14857032579021479508391.jpg
     
  2. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:25 AM
    #2
    henryp

    henryp Well-Known Member

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    Form follows function
    I got a cheap separator at harbor freight. If you have one around. Otherwise, good luck with all the hammering. I just did my '09 for the first time a couple of weeks ago.
     
  3. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:25 AM
    #3
    rmepilot

    rmepilot Well-Known Member

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    Hit the spindle, not the UCA.

    Edit: there is a flat surface on the spindle. Hit that location with a 2lb hammer. Maybe a little WD40, as well.
     
    TheTacoma and Silverspool like this.
  4. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:26 AM
    #4
    henryp

    henryp Well-Known Member

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    ^^ this too!!
     
  5. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:27 AM
    #5
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    Get a pitman arm separator from the parts store, it will make quick work of it and they only cost about $15.
     
  6. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:28 AM
    #6
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    Alternatively, hit the spindle with a touch for a minute, then hammer on the UCA bolt.
     
  7. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:29 AM
    #7
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    I've also found it's not how hard you hit but sometimes where, try multiple taps at it in different areas.
     
  8. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:30 AM
    #8
    presta24

    presta24 Well-Known Member

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    Scratches, dents, lots of squeaks.
    you may also be able to rent a pickle fork or whatever from your local parts place to separate them.
     
  9. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:31 AM
    #9
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    put the castle nut back on the ball joint. When it comes apart, you dont want all of that to fall apart. Just a couple threads is fine
     
  10. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:31 AM
    #10
    DukesTaco

    DukesTaco Well-Known Member

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    Get a bigger hammer.
     
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  11. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:34 AM
    #11
    Dimestore55

    Dimestore55 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lol, that was my first thought.

    Thanks for the quick replies everyone, I'm heading down to the parts store.
     
  12. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:43 AM
    #12
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    I had to use this on mine. Also works well for outer tie rod end. :)
     
  13. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:49 AM
    #13
    6uam671_tacoma

    6uam671_tacoma Well-Known Member

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    This worked for me!
     
  14. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:59 AM
    #14
    Bentrodder

    Bentrodder PeeRunner Fanboy

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    Kings and a TW DECAL!!!
    A dead blow will not do it, You need a hard hammer. The size doesn't matter much but it's the shock that breaks it loose. And do like @fatfurious2 said and put the nut back on a few threads.
     
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  15. Jan 29, 2017 at 8:02 AM
    #15
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    Some
    this is key to removal
     
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  16. Jan 29, 2017 at 8:23 AM
    #16
    rmepilot

    rmepilot Well-Known Member

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    Did you try it?

    You can lead a horse to water...
     
  17. Jan 29, 2017 at 4:40 PM
    #17
    Dimestore55

    Dimestore55 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I ended up getting a separator from the parts store ($10) and that worked as advertised. Everything is installed, 5100's front and rear with OME 885's on the bottom clip and 1.5" blocks out back. I haven't been able to drive it yet because I destroyed one of the brake lines going to the front caliper but so far the "bro lean" is unbearable. I hope this thing settles about an inch and a half once I start driving it or I will have to do something drastic.

    How much height can I expect out of an aal?
     
  18. Jan 29, 2017 at 4:44 PM
    #18
    rmepilot

    rmepilot Well-Known Member

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    1-3", depending on OEM spring condition and whether or not you keep the overload spring installed.
     
  19. Jan 29, 2017 at 5:03 PM
    #19
    Dimestore55

    Dimestore55 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The OEM springs have been replaced (I assume under the recall). I think I really need to get it on the road and see how everything settles before I make any rash decisions. If I end up getting the aal should I take the blocks out?
     
  20. Feb 1, 2017 at 7:35 AM
    #20
    randomguy

    randomguy Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a canopy? My truck came stock with the 3+1 leaf pack(same as TSB) and pre-lift it sat dead level and needed the 1.5" AAL to bring the rear back up.
     

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