Replacing Control Arms & Brakes @ 161K, what else should I do while it's torn apart?

Just rolled over 161K miles, and my driver side ball joints seem to be whooped (they've been on the way out for a while). I have 5100's @ 0 + , SCS Ray10's with 267-70-17 KO2s. I get a tiiiiiny bit of rubbing at full lock only when going in reverse on the front of the tires. I'd like to take the 5100's to .85, which I think would eliminate the rubbing, but there is already a bit of positive camber and I believe it would get worse by moving the 5100's up a ring without replacing the UCAs. As such, I am planning to upgrade to JBA Uppers and replacing the factory lowers with Moogs (since just replacing the ball joints is a pain from what I have read) to hopefully allow for a proper alignment and peace of mind. While I'm doing all this, I also plan to put in an

EBC S4KF1494 Stage-4 Signature Brake Kit, BLACK

EBC Stage 4 brake kit. Additionally I would like to put in an AAL, I currently have the TSB springs and 5100's in the back. This SHOULD put me at an ever so slight rake and about an inch more on my lift, roughly 2.5-3" total. I think...

All that being said is there A) anything I said that makes no sense or is not recommended and B) what else should I go ahead and replace suspension-wise while everything is torn apart as preventative maintenance/convenience of only taking it apart once?

Any and all advice is appreciated (even if you call me a moron in the process).

 

Wheel hubs? ECGS bushing?

 

Wheel hubs were replaced about 12k miles ago. I'm assuming they should be good for a while yet. Also forgot to mention I replaced the 3 U-joints on the rear driveshaft about 3.5k miles ago, but that's not really relevant here.

ECGS bushing is new to me. Is this it? http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

 

That's the one. Eliminates vibration and growling from the front diff after lifting. The needle bearing from the factory is kind of a weak design. For 60 bucks might be worth it if you are going to keep the truck. If you're doing it yourself, I have the puller tool in my garage, if you pay for the shipping, I'll send it out to you. Just send it back when you're done.

 

I haven't noticed much vibration/growling, a little maybe, but it might be one of those things that I don't know how much it was happening until the sound is gone... I do plan on keeping the truck for a looooong time (knock on wood), so a $60 investment seems like a good plan to me. I'll let you know what I decide, thank you for the offer to borrow the tool!

 

Anytime