Likely Obvious 2.7L Power+Reliability Question

So it looks like my 06 4.0 V6 Taco may be totalled. I'll know for sure tomorrow and I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but I found a potential replacement option already just in case. It's only pitfall I can see from the ad is that its a 2.7 4cyl. So, though I've seen it posted a couple times before, I have a couple likely redundant questions:

1. The 2.7 is just as reliable and is capable of having the same longevity as a 4.0 correct? (The truck I'm eyeing only has 149k)

2. I DO NOT expect the truck to be a race car, but does anyone feel like the truck is absolutely hopelessly underpowered? With a modest lift and 31-32's will it do ok on the highway? I live in CO and we have some hills. I'm ok taking it slow on mountain passes but I'd like to be able to do 70 on the highway without too much of an issue.

Sorry if this post is too repetitive for some, and thanks for the help!

 

if you are planning on bigger tires,lift and other add ons that add unsprung weight to the truck I say no to getting a 2.7l truck and opt for a v6. I havea 2.7l coming from a 3.4l v6 but im keeping my 4 banger stock its a DD and don't want to effect its power/performance limitations by adding larger tires etc.

 

Thanks for the feedback, it's a well modified truck but I'm bummed it may not have the power to lug around the mods.

 

I love my 2.7 but it is a gutless wonder. I live in Wyoming and mine has the stock tires on it. Mine is completely stock except for OME suspension. I have to drop down to 4th gear and floor it just to do 55 up the long 7% grades on I-80. For example "The Sisters" over there on I-80 just before Evanston, WY heading into Utah.

The 2.7 will actually get down the road OK. At 4000 RPM which is where it actually starts making max power although torque comes in a little earlier than that. To get any power at all they have to be revved. Temperature and humidity do seem to affect performance though. There have been times when I can climb the same hill at a lower RPM at the same speed for some reason. Or even in 5th instead of dropping to 4th. I can only assume temp and humidity play a role. The funny thing is that with 700lbs in the bed it drives and accelerates exactly the same as when it is empty. As near as I can tell anyway. I've never really studied or taken notes on this phenomenon.

The bottom line is that 2.7's are gutless and I can only assume that elevation makes the problem worse. I'd bet many with much bigger/heavier tires, lifts, bumpers, skids etc., etc. along with everything else that have kept their stock gearing and don't notice too much of a difference in performance live down near, or at, sea level.

 

2.7 is slow, but 31 inch tires (265/75) are fine but remember to get a small load rating and a light aluminum wheel. It will roll just fine.

The motor is more reliable than the v6. It's pretty much the legendary 22re/ 3rz from the 80s, just updated with fuel injection dual vvti etc. It will run 300k with good oil changes and regular maintenance.

I have p rated 265/75 toyo at2 with fn 5 star aluminum wheels and I literally noticed no change from stock. The wheels are way lighter than the stock steel base that came with the truck. That combined with the bigger tires actually weighed the same.

 

Yes this is true! It accelerates and drives just fine with heavy loads in the bed. I really can't tell lol. As for towing, well a Honda Civic can compete with it.

 

I've driven trucks with 3 times as much power then mine, and I love my 2.7. It's all about expectations. It's not fast, it's reliable as all hell, and when in 4 low there is nothing but torque and can off road with the best of them. I have 265/70/17 E rated mud terrains and 400lbs of extras on the truck and I don't feel like I have any problem moving about in city traffic or overtaking on the highway.

 

The 2.7 will outlive the 4.0, all other things being equal. Yes I agree 160HP/180LB-FT is pretty gutless for a vehicle this size. But the 2.7 is happy to rev up and also requires less maintenance than the 4.0. My 2.7 has 130,000 miles and runs like new.

It depends if you can settle for a "gutless wonder" that will run forever. I can, but many people can't.

 

I wouldn't buy a 2.7 Auto if I lived at elevation and have hills.

2.7 manual access cab is the only option I can reasonably recommend after 57k miles with my 2.7 double cab auto.

 

I agree but the new 6 speed auto with ECT isn't bad. Plus it has 4.30 gears. Makes it feel more powerful compared to the sluggish feel of a 4speed auto

 

Maybe so.. but my 2.7 auto with 4.10s has zero juice in 2nd gear at 8000 ft elevation and going up a sustained incline - and I mean zero. Tach is holding still, speedometer is at 35 MPH and dropping. At that speed, I get to sustain that lack of power or I get to down shift into low first gear, and ride 30 MPH at 4800 RPM, which is far from an ideal solution.

ECT isn't changing a shift point when you're manually in second gear and holding it there. I imagine it's more use in Florida than it is in the elevations and mountainous Sierra Nevada out my way.

Nonetheless.. altitude + inclines = V6. My 2013 is totaled, and I'm replacing it with a 2017. I go into the mountains only a few times a year, and even with that limited use the lack of power in those conditions is enough for me to not consider the 2.7 auto configuration again, not with a double cab.

 

Likely much greater longevity. For instance, the 2.7 has a cast iron block. Forces are also much better balanced in an inline engine than a V.

*I* don't notice any issue with power. It happily pulls MULTIPLES of its "maximum towing limit". HOWEVER, I run mainly between 500 and 700 feet of elevation.

 

Thanks for all of the replies, but to my astonishment my truck wasn't totaled, so I'll be sticking with my 4.0.

 

I was going to say that I bought the 2.7 for reliability, as mentioned above. I pull MX bikes in the bed through the mountains of PA, no problem. I also have a hilly interstate commute to work, which it performs fine. It does need to rev at times, on the inclines, but not a big deal. I think 31s are fine but I wouldn't go too crazy with the mods, to be honest. It's an awesome truck, to be honest. I let me friend talk me into the 2.7 and I'm glad he did. Although I'm sure I'd be happy with the 4.0 or 16+ V6 too. it's give and take. Good luck with your truck, getting fixed.

 

I have noticed this too, kind of strange. I had ~1000 lbs in the bed today and it pulls the same as when empty. I commented to my wife that I need to find some use for the engine in 10 years when the body falls off around it but it is still running like new.

 

Yup! I feel it a little in first or second gear taking off, but everything else feels the same. I haven't towed with it yet, but I bet it will feel real sluggish. My Ford Ranger 2.3 did at least, I'm sure the 2.7 will.

 

I tow a 6x10 cargo trailer with my 2.7 5sp. Loaded it weighs about 2200 lbs. I know it is back there, but it pulls just fine. I travel over through backroads in WV so it is up one mountain after another (RTS 33 and 250). I don't race up hills, but it gets me there just fine. No problem keeping up with traffic on interstates either though I try not to go much over 65 for the most part.

 

2TR-FE is an outstanding engine for long life. Keep up with maintenance and it will do fine.

 

2.7 L with million miles

Owner is member here

http://www.thedrive.com/news/7691/this-toyota-tacoma-has-driven-nearly-a-million-miles

There is thread in first gen section

 

3RZ-FE and 2TR-FE share that reliability. Both are built on a similar block configuration and have forged internals.