3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

Unfortunately the housing is a one piece and completely different that the TRD model so it can't be used. The rotor pack is identical and drops right in, so that is a great source of a core or back up pack. The nose cones look the same except for some reason the buicks looks taller. I got stalled on this project as my garage got turned into a storage unit for my wife but planned on cleaning it out and getting back to work.

 

Long overdue S/C oil change today. Parked the truck nose down and I used a very narrow and flexible gas line from Home Depot intended for grass trimmers and the tubing was able to get the the lowest part of the nose cone to suck out the oil.

 

^^For reference, how may miles and time?^^

 

I honestly don't know, that is what scares me. I bought the truck with the SC on there and the truck had 90K on it. The SC was installed from when the truck was new by previous owner. So I have put 31K on the truck since I bought it. This could be just over 31K or 121K since last change. I'm due for a rebuild soon anyways.

 

Thanks for the update.
I have around 80K and 18yrs on mine and prolly should check it.

 

I've heard change every 30,000

 

IIRC TRD recommends at 100,000.

 

This is what I remember as well.

 

Guys.
I don't mean to tread jack.
And if there is a post that I'm missing that you would rather point me to so be it.
Even in this Thread I have seen a lot of discussion back and forth. I get it. There is flux.
What I am looking for is the current Thursday March 24th 2017 response to the question below.

I have read Gadget's entire blog.
And I sent him an email and I either didn't word it correctly or he was busy but I got a pretty short response.

I want to get a supercharger for my truck which will be a daily driver.
Truck is a 2002 with 135k on it. I will be located in Colorado doing a lot of mtn. runs and pulling trailers.

I really want to do this conversion once and then hopefully set it and maintain it.
I won't be chasing more and more HP. I want to keep the rig stable.

So far I have on my buy list:
1. Supercharger.
2. 7th injector kit
3. 2.2 URD pully
4. AFR gauge. ( I saw all the talk about gauges. I don't bouncing needles. I just need the least amount of important info to make sure I'm not melting.)

Questions:
A.) Is there anything else I need to get to set up the system correctly.
For example. One person has mentioned that URD recommended an 02 sens calibrator.
B.)If the 7th injector kit has a map that is 99% correct for all trucks. Will there still be a need to tune the system?
C.) I have a super great resource to help with the install (my dad.) But if this thing needs to be dyno-ed and hooked up to a PC to get it dialed in I would love to take it to a shop and have that part done. Will a Dyno shop be able to do this tunning task?
D.)Can anyone recco a Dyno shop in Northern California? Sacramento / SF / San Jose. whatever.

Any and all information would be super grand.
And thank you so much!!!

-Bryan

 

Diagnoses??

 

I did a URD 2.1 and 7th injector kit from URD with my TRD charger. bolted it all up didn't to a bit of tuning it all runs great (32K now) and haven't done anything but change belts
If you have an auto trans i highly suggest you get a Transgo HD shift kit installed and a bigger trans cooler.

 

Food thread man. If i eber go back to a supercharger ill def use this

 

Anyone here having a nose seal leaking?? For some reason after I had the supercharger rebuilt the nose
seal has started leaking twice after only 5000 miles, is there an upgrade seal to use to deal with heat issues on this seal or is there a better seal to get?or any suggestions??
I do see rollingperforamce has 2 options,
Grey supercharger using here

 

Get the vitron seal. Alleviated my leak.

 

Ok cool, and to replace the seal, just take pulley off, then clip that holds the seal, pull old seal
out and slid new seal in and replace clip and pulley while on the truck??

 

To replace this seal was it as easy as take pulley off, remove clip, remove seal and slide new seal on,
and then clip and then pulley?? Looks simple, did oil leak out?

 

Did the new vitron seal have a metal front plate?
The website shows the seal but no metal front plate,

 

Pretty much. However I've only ever replaced it by pressing it out. They seem to be an issue yanking them like the pic you quoted earlier.

Its made of a very durable rubber. I tore one open and the outer ring of it contains a metal inside of it to help keep it in place.

 

Yes, it was that simple but the original (OEM) metal backed seal was difficult to get out without being able to press the bearing from behind. I had to tear it up as you saw in my pictures. Oil leaked because I reused the seal which I shouldn't have done.

 

Metal front is how the OEM one is made but it is not needed. The one I replaced it with has no metal and holds perfectly.