Long Travel BS Thread

Also I saw a nissan frontier, it had 4 links and no trailing arms with coilovers, why don't more people do that? It seems cheaper? Is it dangerous or something?

 

$$$$$ and losing the stock gas tank

 

I understand the gas tank, but I would think trailing arms would be more expensive. No?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-hubcentric-wheel-spacers.475562/

Someone needs these

 

It's the "short course" style links. Seen it around more and more lately. There's a bunch of trucks on ig running that setup.

 

Its not a rule in off road but in nascar they have to mount the seat and belts to the same structure. Reason being if you mount the belt to the body and the body deforms and the roll cage doesn't then that belt is going to cut you in half. Obviously a worse case scenario but if the seat and/or belt move you want them to move together

 

Shock shaft speeds and leverage. A shock over the axle can only get ~18" of travel, you can lean it forward and get some more travel but the leverage doesn't apply the same as a shock on a trailing arm. Making the shock travel 18+ inches makes the piston speed way too high for small choppy stuff. If you valve it light enough for chop then it blows through travel on big hits. Same goes for springs, you can make a compromise with valving but if you are doing that much work you might as well do trailing arms. Also large heims are not cheap, by the time you buy 8 heims/misalignments/tube adapters and .250 wall tubing for upper and lower "short course" links you would have paid for half of trailing arms

 

Obviously that's the best way to do it but I chose to keep the stock seats, it's a play truck not a race car. I don't plan on turning left at 172 mph but thanks for that clarification

 

Lol yeah I figure its not as applicable to the dirt but always good to see how others build things. NHRA doesn't even require 360 welding on cages as long as its gusseted. Many ways to build things Cage and build looks great btw

 

The most important thing when mounting harness' in a build like dirt addictions is to get the shoulder strap angle correct. Incorrect shoulder strap angle can turn a minor collision into a life altering back injury. I'm sure dirt addictions are good, but when setting up the harness bar in a cage or buying seats it's important to take into consideration.

 

Sneak peak of shock mounts. Don't mind the photo bomb

 

Are you going to dimple die?

 

No gonna sleeve with tubing

 

Awesome, can't wait to see it

 

Bedcage/shock mounts are done. Time to cut everything out to weld 360 and paint

 

Thinking of going to ORI struts in the rear, in conjunction with my leaf springs, so that I can tailor the ORIs to match the weight in the bed.

Right now the minimum that I run around with is a 35" spare. The max is a RTT, 20 gallons of fuel, a winch, camping gear, etc.

 

well...i doubt that would do what you want.

Plus, the valving is pretty limited on the ORI's. Basically plug holes with screws. Brady would know more about that as he has dealt with them. @BradyT88 I know he mobs his front ones pretty hard and wishes he could slow the compression more but can't.

Plus they change a lot with temperature so not sure they would prove useful in that regard considering where you were. We had major problems with my dads in the fuckin cold. Couldn't cope with the weight was what we figured. Sold them to a friend who still rockin them on a single cab 2nd gen no problem.

 

I think fox offered something similar to the ori stuff with less drawbacks. @Evenflow seemed to know a little bit more about them

 

Anyone here have pics of a 2nd gen with a 3.5" per side kit and stock/trimmed/rolled fenders? Just Want to see the look

 

Tc 3.5 standard kit (first pic) and tc 3.5 race kit(second pic) back when I was still holding onto the looks of stock fenders