Long Travel BS Thread

Can you explain how to do this correctly? I've read of some guys doing it and others don't

 

Don't forget to recharge with nitrogen.

Edit: Call King for the correct procedure.

 

Props to you man! I'm slowly building my trucks with some buddies and I love learning and getting experience with everything. Should be ordering a DTF kit soon

 

I have been trying to get a hold of DTF about info for the rear. Are you going to DTF both the front and rear?

Coot

 

Nope just the front. Kibbetech has already built my rear and is pretty much maxed out besides linking it.

 

How much travel are you getting?

 

Around 16 or 17 inches

 

Did they have to completely custom make your kit? When I went on their site, it seems like their kits are based around chevys?

Coot

 

Not really. They built my bed cage, bum cans, bump mounts, etc. Installed deaver SUA kit as well. I have King 2.5 16 inch double bypass shocks and King 2.0 bumps and mastercraft limit straps. They can do whatever just focus morely around bigger Chevy's/Dodges

 

OK so im hoping some of you guys can help me out. My buddy and I are both running 3.5 kits and it seems like every trip we go out we break a inner or outer cv (east coast so mostly crawling). We are both strapped to limit travel before binding occurs, but we are trying to look for stronger inners and outers. I know Rcv makes damn good axles but I was hoping one of you guys might know of another company that has something to offer.

 

Do the axles actually snap or do they get warped? Def not a good sign for me...damn east coast crawling.

Coot

 

In my lurking this site I have never found an upgrade for the CVs. The last thing I read about RCV was they were working with ALLPRO to develop a set but were having issues. The OEM ones seem to be pretty robust and anything stronger may shift the weak point on the drive train to the innards of the front differential. Not sure about Dirt King but TC states explicitly where to set limit straps on their kits....

The company CVJ says their rebuilds are better than the OEM ones, how they are better I am not quite sure. I did find a couple of minor differences when I disassembled my CVJ and OEM CVs, but don't know how the small differences make them "better". I still have the parts sitting around, I can take photos and post them of the differences I found if anyone is interested.

 

Id greatly appreciate that, that may be an option to look at.

 

The shafts are perfect, it's the cage or birfield that breaks quite often. Mine broke due to a tie rod failure.

 

Are you using oem cv's from Toyota?

 

Ah ok, still is a bummer. I know I probably need to replace my tie rods sometime soon. How many times have you broken your axles after LT?

Coot

 

Yea, and fully clean the old grease off and put new grease in when I rebuild them.

 

Old pictures of the truck but hopefully this helps

 

This is my first one, basically it was due to the fact that the new lowers don't have steering stops built in to them. So when the tie rod snaps it over extends the axle causing a failure.

 

Ouch man, so part of the issue might be due to how the LT UCAs are designed?

Coot