The Tacoma Towing Bible

its more like, pulling up a hill, or at freeway speeds, you want to keep it /above/ 2000 rpm, and if you have a heavy load and a steep grade, above 3000 rpm.

 

5K is hauling ass with a max load up a steep grade. the GR v6 engines should do 5K rpm all day long as long as your cooling system is in top shape.

 

I won't be in too much of a hurry..did a coolant flush last fall so I think I'll be in good shape. I haven't had my transmission fluid changed since I've owned it, so I doubt it's ever been done (bought at 19k miles, currently has 62k).

 

I bought my 2008 with 16k miles last year.. it was basically driven a little then garaged for 7 years. as soon as I got it, I replaced all fluids, filters, and put 5 brand new KO2 tires on it. its like a new car for cheap, hahhaahah.

 

Sounds like you got yourself a good deal then! Mine was my daily driver for 3 1/2 years..now it barely gets 2-3k a year. The only maintenance I haven't done is the trans fluid and spark plugs..guess I'll get that done beforehand. Thanks for the advise!

 

Its already up to 22k miles, and I don't use it as my daily driver (I have several 1990s mercedes E class for that)

my rather short and stocky wife of thirty years doesn't much like having to climb up and down from the tacoma around town.

 

I only used 6th when pulling 5500 lbs when I was on super flat or slightly downhill speeds at the remotest uphill I shifted into 5th. I ran in 5th a lot too; the truck did surprisingly well considering it was a uHaul trailer with surge brakes. Definitely didn't break any speed records though. Going uphill like on a mountain I wouldn't be afraid to get around up around 5k. The cooling systems on these trucks seems to be oversized, and the engine runs really cool. For rolling hills I was constantly getting a running start for each hill but mostly since I'd avoid downshifting all the time by doing that. I got 14mpg going 65mph on flat and rolling hills pulling 5500 lbs in a uHaul 6x12 with a full bed and cab. Leave plenty of room for stopping and engine braking.

The shorter gearing on the MT is nicer for towing then the AT. I'd easily foresee 4th or 3rd at reduced speeds for some of the big mountain passes in CO but it'd do it no problem.

Make sure your trailer is loaded properly. When mine wasn't it felt like I was going to roll it at any speed above 40mph. Once it was loaded properly or perhaps a little nose heavy it was solid as a rock at any speed.

If you are pulling 4-5.5k lbs often I'd buy some ride rite airbags for the rear suspension and Daystar? cradles. Inflate the airbags for more "preload" when running heavy and deflate them for everyday driving. This avoids the harshness of adding more leafs to spring packs when running with no weight on the back, but is more expensive and involved of an install.

 

I can't imagine a situation where I'll be above 4000#. Trailer is 900-1000#, Polaris RZR1000 1700#, coolers/gas containers no more than 500#. Anything else I wanna haul will go in the bed of the truck. As far as loaded properly, I plan on making sure everything is centered and the RZR is as far forward as possible taking into account strapping it down. With that much weight on my truck, is air bags really necessary? I had the TSB for the rear leaf pack done and this winter had 6 70# sandbags on the rear axle with very little if not no sag.

 

Yes, I'd get a bad dip in my rear with stock springs (post tsb) with 750 lbs in the back of my truck. Your trailer tongue weight will be 400-500 lbs and then anything you put in the bed on top of that. I'd get people flashing their brights at me at night since it made the front of the truck point up more and misaligned the headlights. The taco is sprung for daily driving, not carrying a load.

 

So even post tsb (4 leaf pack) you think the rear end will sag enough to be an issue towing 3500#? That's what, 350# tongue weight, which I've had roughly 450# in my bed all winter with no sag, looks dead even. Or is it due to being on the hitch and not over the axle?

 

many trailers, that tongue weight is 15+% of the trailer weight. and yeah, its way behind the axle...

 

WOW! Thank you a ton. This entire article just gave me all the information that I need to get my Tacoma 2011 ready for towing. I bought it used and it already a under the bumper receiver (2") and a round electrical plug, but that is it. I now need to see if there is a transmission cooler, I am sure there isn't one. Also need brake controller too. I will be only towing less than a few hundred miles a year, but this really helps. Living N. Michigan, we have some serious hills and your article covered some great points. Thank you again. Now off to the trailer store, armed and ready with a lot of good knowledge, thanks to you

 

Very well written and in depth

 

Thank you everyone for you constructive replies. After taking in your considerations, as well as some recommendations from a friend of ours, my wife and I decided against such a large trailer since our budget won't allow for a new trailer and a larger truck.

We went out and saw a smaller trailer http://serroscottytrailers.com/floorplans/s188rbr/ with a GVWR of 3,860, which would seem much more manageable for my Tacoma. Then, in the future, if we need something larger, we can budget for that as well as a larger truck.

 

Thats a nice trailer! You'll be happier and safer with that. Just watch as 850# of cargo can add up fast. Enjoy, and happy camping.

 

ah, thats cute. been looking for small trailers-for-two with walkaround queen beds, and haven't found too many. can I ask how much?

and yeah re 850 lbs, it goes fast. 30 gallons of water is about 250 lbs right there, that leaves you 600 lbs. 2 full propane tanks is another 40 lbs of propane.

 

The dealer in Portland has these going for $15,999, the bunk house version is $2,000 more, but also has a cargo capacity of a little over 1,000 lbs. Unfortunately, the bed layout changes so someone would be climbing over someone if they need to get out of the bed.

As far as cargo capacity, the Scotty only has a single propane tank and single battery. There isn't much storage space available either. The heaviest piece of equipment my wife and I have is our inflatable kayak which is about 60 lbs.

We are looking to use this as a relatively inexpensive way to decide what we want to do in the future until our daughter get's a little older and we will need to start packing more stuff for her. I think after water, propane, and battery, we will use up about 300-400 more pounds for food, beverages, and gear.

 

@Tanukihimself

The Tow package does not have factory gearing. It has a larger alternator and a trans cooler and a class III/IV hitch receiver. You could regear you truck but that's not necessary unless you're planning on pulling all the time.

That being said, if you get just trailer brakes you'd be fine. Transmission cooler will help if you can swing it. Just be careful going to fast drag increases exponentially, I don't tow my 7x16 enclosed trailer any faster than 60mph, things start to get tough and your gas milage drops way off.

You can make it across the country no problem with this setup. Just remember to downshift the transmission when climbing and rarely let the truck go into overdrive. Pulling hat moderate highway speeds actually isn't that tough on a transmission, the trans cooler is more for cooling the slipping torque converter at slow speeds, at highway speeds it locks and the transmission is just a locked gear train that doesnt generate excessive heat. Even long uphill climbs are more likely to overheat your engine than your transmission, as that is where the extra heat is really being generated.

Hauling, like wheeling is about feel. You'll be able to tell if your overworking the vehicle at times, slow down and downshift and your good.

Good luck. let us know how you make out.

 

Hey guys me and my wife are looking at a 25ft tt. Dry weight is 4800. And tongue weight of 500. I think I'll be ok towing it with proper hitch and brake controller. My big question is what should I use for tires. Are my stockers Ok? Or should I get load range c,d or e? Thanks for advice