Wiring an Aux Fuse Block, Relays and Switches in a 2016

Do you mind if i still this setup?

 

"Still" *Steal away sir. That's why I posted it.

 

I still it too.

 

Dam autocorrect! Making me look dumb. Thanks!

 

This is a great thread !

 

For any of you looking for straps like the ones I used, I found some good alternatives from a company that is making some cool 3rd gen products @wileydavis . These are not exactly like mine but should work well.
http://www.hondogarage.com/index.php/product/landing/titan-moto-straps

 

Hey guys, sorta new here, just got my Tacoma this past Friday... I ordered this light bar

$90 MICTUNING 50"es 288W 3B439C Curved LED Work Light Bar Combo Off Road Driving Fog Light, 24-Month Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MLI6TWM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I cant wrap my head around how the wiring is going to go up to the bar itself, I can figure out on my own how to get the switch inside the cab though. Also, which fuse do I siphon off of for the light bar? (I only know this much as we installed a PA system in my friends car and wired it to his horn fuse)

 

Anyone know of a switched +12 in the main fuse box 2017 Tacoma?
And what is difference between Radio #1 and Radio #2?
Are do all the fuses in this box feed relays?

 

First I want to say yours and OPs set up is awesome!
I do have some qustions/comments though:

If you go put everything in a case why would you use such an expensive fuse block?
I get its still under or roughly $100 but money is money. Is there a particular reason to use a blue sea block?
They look very well made so I'll give you that.

Also, do you think its worth having a 4 or 6 awg quick connect? I'm designing my set up and thought it might make things easier.

Also part 2, is there any issue with over heating in the case?

Thanks and it still looks very well done.

 

- I used mine specifically for the amps and because it's not really a "sealed" box. Water could get in so I wanted the marine fuse box and breaker.

- See above.

- What are you thinking? I designed mine so that I could take the whole thing out easily if needed, with the only major pains being removing the battery cable bolts.

I haven't even checked for any. I run power for my LED strips (hood and bed), my USB ports (Dashcam and rear seat outlets), and my new mini-airhorn.

 

I've been using a Blue Sea in my Xterra for years, and it's just mounted to the top of the factory fuse box. It's not sealed with anything special and it works great. And I drive through deep water and crap too. The Blue Sea boxes are awesome. Really no need for the extra box around it.

They aren't super expensive

$29 Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block 6 Circuit with Ground and Cover

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ

 

Thanks for the input. I did pretty much the same set-up you and OP did. I figured I wont regret spending some extra cash if I know it works and don't have to worry about. I haven't actually built it yet as all the parts should arrive today.

I was thinking something like this. But I can understand how just undoing the battery connections would work too.

 

I'm going to be doing the same thing. There's actually a company that makes single quick connects that I'll be using on mine though. (The name escapes me currently)

 

I bought who of these kits after the discussion, and will get them Friday:
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpole-connectors-120amp



Once installed I'll take pictures. I wasn't going to before, but I think it's important now because then every circuit in my box will be setup so that the box can be quick removed for access to the fuse panel underneath.

 

Why do the singles? The double is the same price and its just less parts to deal with. Unless you will have a different place for your ground. Then I could see that.

 

I already have separate power and ground wire locations. My red comes into the box at the top right, and the black / ground leaves at the bottom left, so I'd have to pull the stiff 4ga wires together to put them in a joined connector, then cut new power and ground wires and run them to a connector. It's easier to just cut the wires I have, and put the single pole connectors in.

 

Yep that makes sense.

 

Matt at offgrid 4x4 made me this and an excellent set of Anderson jumper cables for a very reasonable price.

 

That is a nice cable there.

I got everything in yesterday but the small wire. I ordered the 12 slot blue sea fuse block with negatives. Turns out that it makes everything pretty tight. I think I'm going to return it and get the 8, maybe even the 6. My thinking behind it was that I could also run the switches though the fuse block as well. I also thought about using the lid of the husky 11" box for the relays and any terminals but I'm not sure how everything will fit even doing that.

 

I finally got time to add the power connectors, and I'm impressed with how simple / sturdy they are. Here are the only pics I've taken, and this is lit only by my under-hood LED strips and an energizer head lamp at 2 am. It's inserting as thumbnail so you can click on it to expand, I think.

And for an explanation, the black relay controls the 10 amp wire I have going into the cab that powers my Dashcam/headliner 3A5V USB port and also my 4.2 A rear USB sockets.
The red relay came with my Nautilus mini air horn and that's what it's for.
The non-relay'd circuit powers my under hood and bed lights that I got from mattgecko https://www.tacomaworld.com/members/mattgecko.59337/