Swapping an electric 99 4Runner door panel with my 01 Tacoma manual

Im wanting to convert my windows, locks and mirrors from manual to electric. Will a 99 4Runner electric door panel swap out with my manual 01 door panel?? Was hoping I could just pull mine off and install the electric one. That it would be the same dimensions. Not sure what else I would need. I've looked at some other posts where it's been done. For now I found a deal on both panels out of a 99 4Runner and hoping they will fit. Anyone know??

 

Haha buddy you're about to get yourself in a WORLD of hurt. Unless you have the correct 4 connectors behind the kick panels that connect to the body ECU you basically have to fabricate a wiring harness that bypasses the B-ECU/Integration Module, and find a computer module that can control the lock actuators.

I bought the door components of an '04 Limited to adapt them to work on my manual doors in my '98. I took both complete door harnesses, and cut off the 2 connector pigtails behind each kick panel to solder wires to. So far, it's involved me staring at wiring schematics and the factory service manual for hours upon hours, and weeks upon weeks trying to figure out what each of the almost 50 wires connect to, and do.

Since I'm bypassing the integration relay and factory computer modules (since I don't want to re-run the entire length of the truck's factory wiring harness) I'm using a Viper keyless entry system to control the lock actuators, while the integrated circuits present inside the master controller switch and mirror master switch will control their respective assemblies.

It's a lot of tracing wiring diagrams and schematics, testing the computer module with the parts, and just seeing what would and what would not work. Trial and error basically. If you're good with soldering wiring & components go for it. I might need to fabricate a custom PCB to control the factory lock actuators since they're supposed to be controlled by a separate keyless entry module. It's really just seeing where each switch & signal leads to, and where +/- 12v goes to.

Here's my progress so far: (huge cluster-f to be honest with you)

 

Here's one of the connector pinouts I'm working on. Labelling each pinout is the first step, finding out what the hell each one does is the second.

 

Do you think the 99 4Runner door panels will be the same dimensions? I realize they will look much different as it will have all the switches on the armrest. I looked at my armrests and there's no place to mount the switches. I was also wondering about the electric regulators!! Its been awhile but I'm thinking I could get back in the groove of soldering. I did graduate from a 1 year full-time electronics school, lol about 26 years ago. I was really hoping that I could get the wiring out of the 4Runner I'm getting the door panels from. Hoping they would still be attached to the switches. I haven't taken one apart so not sure how easy they come out. I want them , but I could live without door locks. Its the windows and mirrors that mean the most to me. I figured it isn't easy or a lot of people would do it for themselves. I really want it bad so I'm going to find out as much as possible before I make an attempt! I may end up just leaving it like it is if it's too much to it. Thanks and anything you can advise me on would be greatly appreciated.

 

The panels will fit exactly. The rest is gonna kick your ass. He is not joking. The wiring is not even close.

 

I'm not too sure about the 4Runner door panels fitting on the Tacoma but it might. The switches are in the armrest on both the 4Runner and Tacoma so I don't know what you mean there. As long as you get the complete door wiring harnesses it shouldn't be that difficult. The hard part is connecting the two, adding voltage, and making it work without any factory control modules.

 

If you're interested in everything you need for the door conversion (minus the kick panel connectors) contact @QMEDJoe, he's selling his setup. He was going to do the same thing but he lacked the 4 kick panel connectors (which would've made the conversion basically plug-n-play).

Look behind your kick panel. If you have an unused connector adjacent to the speaker connector it'll, for the most part, be plug and play. If not you're gonna have to go down the same road as me fabricating the wiring harness and using an aftermarket computer to control everything.

 

What do you mean about the wiring? Are they different on the 4Runner vs. the Tacoma?

 

I'll have to check that out tomorrow. I'm thinking I won't have them. My 01 door panel armrest is different than the 4runners. They look much different. I guess it will work. I don't use the armrest on my truck at all, so if they're in a different location that's no big deal to me. If I can get electric windows and mirrors I could care less about armrest all together,

 

If you simply did just power windows and power mirrors it should be very straightforward. It's just giving 12v to the master switches, and motors and mirror assemblies and you're done (theoretically).

I could easily use cheap aftermarket lock actuators (which usually only have 2 wires) but I wanted to be as factory OEM as possible so I'm using the OEM actuators (which have 7 wires for some reason) which makes it even more difficult.

 

Not by much. Just remember, the door/ window switch is tied into the ignition/ engine harness.

I removed the door harness just last week. I did not want to cut any wires. To do this I had to move completely into the under dash ignition harness. Removing the wiring sucked, installing would just kill me.

I know my way around these trucks pretty good, but I know when a project would be a monumental waste of time.

I know, cranking the window up sucks when used to power windows. One of my trucks is manual. I still think cranking the window up is easier than changing all that wiring.

If you find a way to bypass the ECU, you might be able to make it work.

Good luck.

 

You think he means that the wires are color coded with different colors? Maybe there will be additional wires that wouldn't get used by my truck, but they do get used in the 4Runner?

 

The truck I got the wiring out of was a Double Cab, and I have an Extended Cab. There's a couple wires for the rear windows that aren't used. I also have two extra switches. I was planning on eventually grabbing the motors and linkage out of like a Ford Windstar or similar minivan and adding them to the extended cab vent windows to motorize them. I know a member on here did the same.

 

I know a Toyota super master mechanic. He stays very busy. A guy had an issue and the dealer could not fix and Toyota told him to contact this guy. It would probably be 6 months or more before he could get to it. I could ask him about it and tell him I was thinking about tackling this on my own. If he looks at me and starts laughing hard, I may have to scrap this project. It wouldn't be something that needs to be done tomorrow. I saw a kit on eBay for the windows, but I'd rather have the Toyota switches and have it look factory. I don't care about the locks at all, only the mirrors and windows. I would like to think that I could run 12 volts to the switch and then output to either a regulator or mirror. I'll have to ask Steve Butrick the Toyota wizard master mechanic. Why couldn't I get my 12 volts from my cig lighter and run it to the appropriate switches. I'm fine with a jerry-rig that has a factory look, lol!

 

People have done it before. I've seen some members on here do it. It's really just running signal cables and power cables to the right places.

 

I found 2 door panels with hardware I'll need for $40. He told me it was missing passenger side motor. I thought that was a good deal and I'd just have to get a motor for passenger side. Probably the old," if it sounds too good to be true than it probably is." Tomorrow I will go by and ask Steve and see what he says, Thanks everyone for your input, advice and experience.

 

He didn't laugh yet. I've been to his house a couple of times and he wasn't home. He's about a quarter mile from my house, so I'll catch him at home sooner or later. I had another Toyota that me and a couple friends replaced the motor and the wiring color code was completely different. He came down and made some wire connections and it's was running good. I heard that he went to Toyota mechanical competitions. Like you said, for Windows and mirrors it might not be too bad. If I get his input it certainly wouldn't hurt. He's semi- retired and I think that's the why he's hard to get a hold of. Thanks again and I'll post some more info soon.

 

Oh kinda misinterpreted what you said haha.

 

Panels might fit but inside their a different animal all together. When you say panels, your not talking the whole door are you? You stated above you were missing passenger motor. That's not part of the door panel itself.

 

Door lock uses a ground to either lock or unlock. To 25amp SPDT relays wired like in the picture will control the locks. Just replace the alarm input with door lock switch.inputs.


GROUND the black and white, run black and blue to one input of relays and red and yellow to the other input.