Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

If I may ask. Why are you going from K&N back to stock? Emissions tests??

 

I just like the OEM setup better. I feel it provides better filtration.

I can't think of any advantage of the K&N. I wish I could, Im not looking foward to the work.

 

I understand. I believe I would check the filtering capabilities of the OEM and the K&N (micron rating). Before I changed anything.
Feeling something is better doesn't necessarily mean it is better.

As they say. Men lie...Women lie....But numbers don't lie..... Not if they're accurate anyways.

 

The numbers are out there, the K&N is complete trash when it comes to filtering. Worse than every other option by a mile. Shockingly awful actually as I recall. I'm mobile at the moment but should be easy for a search to find the relevant thread and test.

EDIT: I should add that the K&N does have some of the best flow ratings which is what they mean by "performance" in their marketing - it provides the least resistance to flow but it also filters the worst. Blackstone Labs can actually tell if you are running a K&N from a used oil analysis because vehicles with the K&N have a much higher silicon content than those using OEM or equivalent.

 

Thank you. Not to mention, it's sucking warmer air than stock. I'm tearin this junk
out now!

 

Alright, off mobile so I could find a few tests. The most often sourced "visual" test is over on BITOG where a second filter was added after the filter under test and the color of that second filter an indication of how much contaminant was being passed. The K&N filter is quite dark compared to the others.

But numbers was the real question and for that this test is probably the best source:

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/air-filter-study.html

And for those who don't like clicking links and want the TL;DR:



And for the search engines or if the image dies a decade from now the results are the K&N passing 35% of contaminants while the OEM equivalent are all passing less than 5%.

 

Here goes round 2. I had the code pop up again yesterday. The new parts lasted about 13 months and less than 10,000 miles.
Edit - found my receipt, it was 13 months.

 

That sux!

 

Just bypass it and hope the bypass never fails......

 

Way to go DV. Like I said If they're accurate. Numbers tell no lie.

 

Damn that is insane. I was going to "like" your post but that just seemed wrong to do some how .

If you don't mind a few questions (and apologies if you've posted this info in the past and I didn't see it):

• How many miles on the original parts?
• Kind of driving (mostly short trips or long trips)?
• Confirm in Hickory, NC - so 80s and humid in summer, some freezing temps in winter and precipitation a few times every month of the year?

Seems like problem probably has a strong dependence on the environment. Given how fast there is a failure in some trucks I've got to wonder if the 2013+ post shutdown purge cycle is only going to delay the inevitable in the worst environments.

 

Original parts went bad at 34k miles, 44k now
My commute is about 15 miles each way, it's rural so not much stop and go, this should be perfect for engine temps and everything.
Hickory is correct, truck is garaged overnight so it rarely sees below freezing, winter precip is more like a few times per winter. It was 50's and sunny when the code came on yesterday. I pulled the pump cover off, filter and fan are fine, this is purely a stuck valve issue.
edit - Per autozone the actual code is 2443 valve stuck closed.

 

(copied from other tread) I just heard back from the dealer, they offered a 50/50 split on the costs. It's fair of them, but I am really disappointed with Toyota. This is my 3rd Tacoma. This isn't something I'm willing or interested in dealing with every year. Keep in mind I had the whole system replaced 13 months and 8,000 miles ago.

 

Count me a casualty.

2012 TRD OR 4x4 DCSB 59.7k.

Austin, TX.

 

Same here. 2012 TRD DCLB 62k. I talked to the dealership today and it doesn't sound like they are going to cover anything. Although we will see. They've taken really good care of me up until this point.

 

I just changed my oil Monday night at 134,958 miles on my 2012 4.0. Driving home from work yesterday, Tuesday, I got the CEL and TRAC OFF lights and subsequent P2440/P2442 codes. I guess, from the numbers in this thread, that I made it pretty long. Going to try calling the dealership to see if there is any possibility they will cover it, but guessing no. Has no one done a DIT thread on the replacement of the parts for this yet? If not, and if I need to do the part swap, I will make sure to take lots of pics and write it up, certainly not paying $1900 for anything from the dealership.

*Called the dealership, nothing in their computer pops up for my VIN. So I'll be ordering the parts to do the swap myself. Likely start with the valve and then if I get issues again I'll do the pump.

 

I hope you get another 100k miles out of yours. Good luck.

 

That's my only worry, that I replace the one that I got 135K miles on with one that goes bad in 8k or the low numbers that some others in this thread have had. If that happens she'll get bypassed.

 

That's why I just bypassed mine as soon as it went bad.

 

Hi all! Same thing just happened to me error codes p2442 and p2440, both stating valves stuck open. Consider no one is having luck getting toyota to cover I figure I would just buy parts and replace my self...question does any one have part numbers of what is need to be replaced? Thanks in advance for help