Truck Cap/Topper Advice

My wife and I are building our truck for adventuresauce and we have been debating whether we should get a rear bed rack or a topper/cap. After the ridiculous hail storm last weekend we are leaning more towards the cap. The intention is to have a secure and dry place to store all of our gear and equipment, a place for the dog to sleep, and install a rack and RTT. The rack will likely be a Prinsu.

After reading through some threads I was wondering what advice people have based on their experience with truck caps and what options they recommend.

I have seen a recommendation to get the removable front window as it will help with cleaning. I have a power sliding rear window but should I bother with also getting a removable sliding front window? How often do you guys actually have that window open? Some options I have seen include additional lighting, lock boxes, drawer systems, cargo nets, roof lockers etc. Is there anything you would not recommend?

Additionally, what information do I need to know regarding the roof rails in regards to installing a roof rack?

Thanks!

EDIT: I've never owned a cap before as all my other trucks were used for towing and hauling so I really don't even know what I need or want.

 

I too was a first time cap owner. I chose the ARE Overlander, mainly because of the looks TBH. Here's a few things thoughts since ownership...

- my only regret with this cap is that it does NOT have remote locking options. having to lock it by hand is kind of a pain in the ass. I wish it had auto lock option, and I would also get the "pop n lock" jig for the truck's tail gate... that would fully automate things.

- also, I would recommend getting a cap that has rear window rain wipers... it gets dirty back there.

- when you have it installed, double (triple) check that the installer did a good job. your cap should have enough space between the cap and the bed rails to avoid paint contact. after you get the cap and break her in, recheck for rubbing/scrapping a month later... I found this out the hard way.

- your cap will most have electrical hook ups... upon install, make sure the installer uses "quick connects" for the electrical connections. this saves a lot of time if you ever need to remove cap.

- I highly recommend getting a front window that allows air... even if you have side windows that open, the front window significantly increases air flow.... this is great for dogs... especially on hot days and slow moving. whether or not it fully opens for cleaning purposes is secondary.

- drawer systems are cool and fancy, but you can save money by doing it yourself. there are plenty of DIY tutorials here on TW.

- if you haven't already, I recommend the Tacoma bed mat for your dog. it's great... reduces vibration and built well.

good luck

 

Awesome stuff, I appreciate it.

These are all things I had not even considered, wipers, quick connects, break-in, air flow, etc.

I do have the Tacoma Bed Mat, it came with the truck and at first I thought it was going to be useless but I am glad I have it after several uses.

EDIT: I was actually just on ARE looking at their Overland cap, I see it in your pic and it looks great.

 

also, sounds like you're gonna put racks on top of the cap. I would recommend having the cap made with tracks already installed. this way, it's covered under warranty. you don't have to get the racks at first, just the tracks. I believe prinsu racks are compliant with Yakima tracks (confirm this). installing tracks later will require drilling, which most likely voids your warranty.

 

also, seems like a lot of dudes love having carpet in their caps. I believe it adds warmth. but I have a german shepherd, and dog hair and carpeting don't play well. highly recommend NOT getting carpet if dog sheds a lot.

 

I was going to pass on the bed carpet for the same reason, also if I really needed to I can spray out the bed if I leave it stock with the bed mat. I am debating about a headliner but not sure about the dog hair as well.

I'll confirm with Prinsu on the rails for the rack and see if ARE can install them under warranty.

 

Lessons learned from my Leer 100XR:

- Removable front window is awesome; sliding option is not necessary at all.
- Windoors are a must; if you're getting a Leer cap, do NOT get "sliding" windoors - they leak; regular windoors (w/o sliders) are the way to go.
- Some racks come with their own rails; my FrontRunner rack is meant to be used with the FrontRunner rails. I made it work w/ the Thule rails that came w/ the cap, but it was a pain. In hindsight, I'd much rather have installed FrontRunner rails on the Leer cap (and voided the associated warranty as a result). FrontRunner racks come w/ nuts that are too big to work with Thule rails - you have to get new nuts.
- Get a cap w/ a heavy-duty rating - higher than the standard 200lbs. Note that some of these caps come with an internal metal frame that will take away interior room.
- Quality of installation is everything. Before getting the cap installed, take off the bed rail that sits at the very front of the bed (the one w/ a rubber end-cap on each side), remove, seal, and re-install those end caps. Install sealant (rubber, flexible - something butyl based) underneath the rail and in those caps. Basically make sure this component is 100% waterproof. Use the same sealant to plug the big holes on either end of that rail. After the cap is installed, get in there again to seal any remaining openings. Shine a flashlight from the outside and see if it's visible when you're inside the bed. If it is, seal until it's not.
- Many of the "cheaper" brands are clones of the big name ones, made from the same moulds in the same factories, painted in the same booths. Save money when possible as it's all the same.
- Carpet and extra lighting is nice.
- When they hook up the wiring for the cap, they'll drill a hole in the rear, driver-side corner of the bed (taillight cavity area). Have them position this hole so that it's on the part of the bed that's perpendicular to the direction of the truck - it'll be less visible. Alternatively, have them run the wiring through the bed cubby. Should you ever wish to get rid of the cap in the future, replacing/patching the plastic bed cubby is much easier than filling holes in the metal.

 

It's not so much about the tiny bit of extra warmth for me, but rather to help prevent condensation when sleeping back there during cold weather. The carpet helps distribute the moisture and helps prevent it from dripping on you while sleeping. If you don't plan on sleeping back there in cold weather it probably isn't worth the hassle.

 

So after researching many racks and truck caps, I am leaning towards the ARE CX. Options include fabric liner, dual rope lights w/ prop switch, miterd half windows that slide with pet screens, fold down front sliding window, single T-lock, yakima tracks (works with Prinsu). Was quoted about $2400 including install

I'm up in the air about the bed rug, I haven't seen it yet but I was told its not like normal carpet more rugged and can be unzipped and removed for cleaning.

I'll also try and paint match a bed liner to the very top of the truck cpa where the racks install to prevent scratchs or dings from gear and straps up there.

I'm not sure what the difference is between the normal sliding windows and the mitered windows?

 

swing down front window is needed for cleaning the truck rear window. Also get the slider in the shell front window. I use it often when hauling long boards /pipes etc. I have a long box and I open the two sliders (truck and shell) and can haul an 11 to 12 foot board and still have the shell back window closed and locked.

 

Get a sliding front window to allow cab air to pressurize cap to keep out dust. Use pool noodle between cab window and topper to seal. Allows some heat and cooling from cab particularly if you add a small 12v fan.

 

Windoors are a must IMO, makes loading/unloading much easier