Let's find that lost cylinder 5 out of 6 ain't bad right

It doesn't I corrected it.

 

No, I am an old person stuck in my ways. My reader is fairly complex and was expensive. It has a "Toyota specific" software upgrade and connects to a PC with, get this, a serial cable.
I'm sure other folks will chime in with their Post Jurassic recommendations.

 

How long is the cable ? Think it will reach to my house ?

 

So back from work trip to DAYTONA 500!



Yes moving on missfire on Tacoma, are the odb2 screen shots any good ? No dident think so

 

Hadn't really study therm. I look later.

 

You can try Amazon for the

$24 BG44k BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner Power Enhancer 11oz.

BG44k

 

This may be my next step ........
I know no odb2 codes for ignitor are present but this is the only info i can find on how to test the ECM

I TOOK THIS OUT AS I AM UNSURE IF IT IS THE CORRECT INFORMATION FOR MY 04 V6 AUTO, REFERENCE THE LINK ABOVE.

 

Couldn't hurt, make sure the ECM pin outs are the same for your year, trans combination.

 

This came off of Mitchell On-Demand workshop manual that someone put on a different site ...... searching for the correct info now (never found as the ADD got me and i ended up reading about a auto to manual conversion and what all the wires to the EMC do)

EDIT ..... got myself confused with wiring diagrams and what each does, but in my mind this is the most logical place to check

 

Might help, might confuse. I have never checked for accuracy but looks legit.
http://www.well.com/user/mosk/images/Early_Tacoma_ECUs_v1.pdf

 

This is the same PDF I was looking at but I found it on ttora

Also the same one I got co fused with

I will try again tomorrow

 

Yes I just watched both of your videos. reading back thru thread. Also comparing my log to your scanner pictures.

I have the FSM what do you need?

 

Maybe these will help

 

Thanks, there is lots of good information there. Time to

Read... learn.... try..... Repeat (maybe)

 

Disclosure: I'm not a car mechanic or experienced in engine diagnostics but just a wild guess, not sure if it is possible.

The freeze frame (and Engine Check code) shows O2 fault, and engine running in Open Loop. That means ECU would run quite rich mixture, and the color of plugs is confirming that. Could it be possible that this is the root cause of misfire code (rich mixture and not the best injectors combining the misfire condition). The ignition might actually be OK, especially when they show all symptoms of being operational. Again, this is just wild guess.

I understand it's very cold out there but I first would eliminate all obvious things before taking the engine apart. Clean MAF, intake, plugs and injectors. Make sure all electrical wires and hoses are connected, no leaks or cracks, no loose wires or dirty contacts. Basically clean all the mess first. From the pictures it looks like the previous owned didn't care so give the truck some TLC and then see what's wrong.

BTW, wire taps is the most evil thing ever invented. I almost cried when I saw how Toyota dealer installed alarm in my new 4Runner. Wire taps everywhere. If I knew that then, I would kill that SOB mechanic. When I do my electrical mods you wouldn't know it is not factory.

 

What are you doing, bringing common sense into this thread?

Just kidding, all good advice and couldn't agree more.

 

One engine was off the other I don't think it was warmed up enough. I was hoping he'd have a log like this one.

 

Thanks i think we are headed down the right road !

all the plugs are BLACK and it does have a p0031

I have two extra 02 sensors from a 96 4 runner that i hope are the same ones

In researching on how to test it i found this link to a bypass

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-o2-sensor-bypass-cel-fix.325297/

I cleaned the MFS and T body with cleaner

 

Don't start cutting wires. All the rear O2 sensor does is checks the efficiency of the cat.

 

More thinking and information

I bought this truck as a parts truck for my red 02 Tacoma as i need a box. Once i got it home the truck was in better shape then i had thought and it was to good to scrap right away.

The seller TOLD ME that this was running on 5 cylinders and he could not figure it out, and he had it to a few backyard shops they said it might be computer problem as there was a dead wire.

I never heard of a computer problem with the 3.4L so i had it in my mind that it was something else and decided to trouble shoot first before jumping into a computer for a parts truck that will spend the rest of its life up to my cabin on woods roads.

This truck was in a MINOR front end collision at some point as the front fenders are after market, head lights are newer, and grill does not clip into all the spots on the rad support.

The intake tube from the AIR box was also broken and duct-taped, no real signs of bent sheet metal around air box but some how the tube on the back of the air box was broken.

This allowed some RAW air to bypass the filter (speculation)

The frame on this truck also has MAJOR welding on it possible the welding killed a electrical component ? (speculation)