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Icon UCA Unibal Failure

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by EL JEFE 83, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. Feb 26, 2017 at 7:17 PM
    #1
    EL JEFE 83

    EL JEFE 83 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Jeff
    Albuquerque NM
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    2007 Tacoma TRD Supercharged!
    OME LIFT, 32'S, Super Charger, URD Pully, Banks Exhaust
    Has any one had any issues with a unibal on a UCA failing or coming unseated? Just noticed this on my truck.

    Thanks,
    Jeff
     
  2. Feb 27, 2017 at 6:32 AM
    #2
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    JJ
    movin' on up to the east side
    Vehicle:
    1985 Moped
    Rancho RS66903R7 @2.5", 2x4 block in rear. strait pipe, 37" super swampers
    It is a wear item and doesn't last forever. How long has it been on there? It has been bad for a LONG time to go completely through the race. Looks like you have been lubing it, which you are NOT suppose to do. The lube impregnates the Teflon liner and it falls apart, causing premature uniball failure. You bushings will be shit, too as bad as you let the uniballs get.
    Simple fix, buy a uniball repair kit and bushings and replace. Never lube the uniball again, just keep them clean with WATER, no chemicals.
     
  3. Feb 27, 2017 at 6:36 AM
    #3
    TACOVRD

    TACOVRD I Identify As A Prius

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    TW Addict
    AZ/WA
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    Workin' on it....
    I was under the impression it was safe to lube uniballs with a product like triflow.
     
  4. Feb 27, 2017 at 6:44 AM
    #4
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    movin' on up to the east side
    Vehicle:
    1985 Moped
    Rancho RS66903R7 @2.5", 2x4 block in rear. strait pipe, 37" super swampers
    No manufacturer actually recommends it and they will tell you, NO! Dry lube is not actually "dry". It turns into a gooey residue that attracts dust and crap, just like any other lubricant. Never really understand what people think it does anyway? Look at the bottom side of the uniball and it will be dry as can be and probably all crusty, so all you are doing is coating the top outside of the uniball anyway.
    People say to lube them because they squeak, but it is the bushings that they don't correctly lube. TC has some nice you tube videos expaling the proper procedures for maintaining uniballs.
    Sad thing is, There are vendors on TW that say to use dry lube on uniballs even though the UCA manufacturers clearly state NOT to.
     
  5. Feb 28, 2017 at 10:32 AM
    #5
    Sicyota04

    Sicyota04 Slowly but surely.

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    Morgan
    California
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    So Camburg has it all wrong. I understand now. They build their own UCA's and suggest the proper maintenance for their uni ball, ball joint. All this time I thought they had this on their website for shits and giggles! Makes sense! Why do they put this on their website then? We should ask what @Thetequilaworms

    IMG_6192.jpg
    IMG_6190.jpg
     
    CharlieCafe and YotaDan like this.
  6. Feb 28, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #6
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    movin' on up to the east side
    Vehicle:
    1985 Moped
    Rancho RS66903R7 @2.5", 2x4 block in rear. strait pipe, 37" super swampers
    Well, he doesn't have the cheap camburgs, does he? Call icon and ask if you should lube the uniball.
     
    REDdawn6 likes this.
  7. Feb 28, 2017 at 1:54 PM
    #7
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    movin' on up to the east side
    Vehicle:
    1985 Moped
    Rancho RS66903R7 @2.5", 2x4 block in rear. strait pipe, 37" super swampers
    maybe @SDHQ OFFROAD could shed some light on the uniball lube issue?
    I lubed mine with Triflow and the ptfe liner became impregnated with the lube and started to deteriorate and come out of the race. Icon tech support said, do NOT lube new uniballs, just keep clean after wheeling. My new ones have lasted twice as long and never been lubed.
     
    REDdawn6 likes this.
  8. Mar 1, 2017 at 8:34 AM
    #8
    tubbsisland

    tubbsisland I took snowtanks beer

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    you can lubricate a uniball but only do so if you absolutely have to and only with a dry teflon based lubricant like triflow or belray molylube.
     
    RogueTRD likes this.
  9. Mar 1, 2017 at 8:41 AM
    #9
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    movin' on up to the east side
    Vehicle:
    1985 Moped
    Rancho RS66903R7 @2.5", 2x4 block in rear. strait pipe, 37" super swampers
    The question would be, why would a person "absolutely" need to lube them? Unless they are buying cheap non-stainless ones you can get from places like wheeler's, corrosion shouldn't really be an issue if kept maintained and CLEAN. I've found out after lubing and doing what most people do because the lack of proper care instructions, the noises come from the bushings and not properly greasing those. I bet 8 out of 10 people at groups rides complaining about their uniballs making noise and needing lube, you can look and see their bushing are all mushroomed out and a gob of grease coming out one side.
     
  10. Mar 1, 2017 at 8:51 AM
    #10
    tubbsisland

    tubbsisland I took snowtanks beer

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    The internal PTFE liner will over time become dry and fatigued and does have the tendency to become loud. You can "refresh" the liner by using an appropriate lubricant but generally I like to tell people that "Race car parts will make race car noises" and a little noise from your uniballs is normal. It is possible to over saturate the liner causing swelling but it is highly unlikely since dry lubricants do not retain moisture or attract dirt like an oil based will like WD40. Additionally oil based lubricants will destroy and erode the PTFE liner prematurely. The use of triflow or other dry teflon based lubricants is safe for FK uniballs and heims but as you stated the best way to maintain them is simply spending a couple extra minutes during your wash to ensure that any debris is removed as thoroughly as possible.

    The failure above looks like a severely fatigued Uniball through use and normal wear and tear coupled with the use of incorrect lubricants which (discoloration) and due to the extra play the ball itself pushed through the race. The snap ring still appears to be intact which is why the complete uniball assembly has not pushed out of the cup.
     

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