Show off your aux fuse panels.

If I can get what im asking then yes.

 

What is the asking price? Did I miss it in an earlier reply/post? I only need the mounting plate.

 

If its for a 2016+ it wont work. PM me as I have one more Blue Sea mounting plate in stock for a 2016+.

 

Sub'd. Good looking set ups guys!

 

Haven't hooked it up yet but plan to install one that I got from a VW in my 4Runner, might even use one in my Plymouth since I upgraded the alternator and starter. Was like $5 from the local pick n pull.

 

Finally have something to post. This project was actually inspired by this thread.

DIY 6 channel wireless controller. Cost me around $75 $90 in parts.

 

That is slick!! Where did you get the relays and wireless controller ?

 

Thanks. It was a fun project. Sourcing the right parts, especially the right size enclosure (especially in black), took a while. The first enclosure I bought was too big. The one I used is a tiny bit too tall, but it works.

With these relays, you're limited to 10A. That is plenty for my current and planned lighting.

• Wireless relays - $32.65 w/free shipping ($27.59 w/one remote)
• Enclosure - $12.03 +$12.70 shipping (hard to find black in this size, at least for me it was)
• Fuse block - $14.07 w/free shipping (you can probably find these elsewhere)
• 60A Circuit breaker - $8.85 w/free shipping (same with these)

I was off a bit my cost estimate. For some reason, I though I paid $27 for my relays. I paid $37. With wiring and connectors, probably closer to $90-$95 in parts.

 

Those of you with a Bussmann setup, are you running everything direct from the battery, ie: not ignition switched? I like the compact setup of the Bussmann and @Yotamac verified the TacomaPros plate will fit my needs if I go with a Bussmann vs Blue Sea + relays configuration, but would rather have the relay coils all be on ignition switched power vs always-on from the battery. Any options here?

 

Most of the ones I've seen including my own have the power through the switch to the relay (coil side) coming from an ignition switched add-a-fuse under the dash. The load side of the relay goes straight to the battery. That's how I advise everyone hook up the ones I sell.

 

The relay coil in my diagram is controlled by a dpdt switch that has one side constant hot so I can use it when everything is off, the other is powered from a fuse tap to a circuit that is only hit on ignition so the circuit would drop out if I turn the truck off.

 

When I wire up my rear LED pods can I use one ground wire to the pods then daisy chain the ground over to the second pod? Then ground the single wire to the Blueseas fuse box grounding bar or does each pod need its own ground?

 

Shouldn't be a problem.

 

Thanks.

 

Buying a fuse box, what is the reason to get a box with neg terminals as appose to no neg terminals.
Only thing I can think is if you want the fuse on the negative/ground side.

no negative terminals


with negative terminals

 

I want a neg bus so all grounds from switches etc. can be jumped together and grounded at one place using a single wire. Much cleaner design.

 

Any bad parts from having negative terminals.

 

Sometimes they don't get used if you ground near your accessory but generally no bad parts. Having negative bus gives you the option to use it instead of grounding to body/frame or to negative terminal of the battery

 

Ok time to start looking for the best deal on the negative terminals one.

 

Bus bars are cheap and worth using. Im not a huge fan of grounding every accessory to the frame. To many grounds to go bad. Kinda like issues with trailer lights always go back to poor grounding.