PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

7 years later: New "Family Truckster" and new (to us; it's a 2004) boat!

 

This was July 2015:


7+ hour drive from Pennsylvania to my Grandma's vacation home in Maine. Not once in almost 30+ years of making this drive annually has anybody (including my dad) ever been pulled over! At midnight, literally 5 minutes from my Grandma's lakefront house, we ran into a DUI checkpoint...

There's literally nobody else on the road but us... Sheriff's deputies immediately notice that my dad's Pilot had no front license plate (Unlike Maine, PA is a one-plate state) and was pulling a 17-foot boat. My dad stopped at the checkpoint and turn on the dome light, and the deputy noticed the Pennsylvania inspection sticker (so he knew we were from out of state). Then he noticed my mom in the shotgun seat and me in the back watching James Bond. The deputy cracks a smile and says something like "It's pretty obvious you guys aren't coming from a bar." He jokingly asked my dad if he'd been drinking and waved us right through...

 

This isn't the first time my dad got stopped at a DUI checkpoint with the whole family in the car either...

First time was in September 2005, in our 2004 Honda Odyssey EX. We'd literally just moved back to Pennsylvania and the van was registered in Virginia (not that it mattered; my dad was still active-duty Navy at the time and as a result was exempt from "civilian" laws regarding motor vehicle registration).

My dad was obviously driving, my mom was riding shotgun, and I was in the back with two my cousins (Daughters of the badass uncle who taught me how to drive stick).

It was either midnight or pretty damn close to it, and We had just seen Meat Loaf in concert (2005 Hair of the Dog Tour) at Montage Mountain (near Scranton) and were en route to my aunt and uncle's house in the Allentown area to drop off my cousins. After that, we'd drive another hour or so back to Doylestown...

We were on a narrow 2-lane mountain road somewhere outside of Scranton when we came upon the DUI checkpoint, and there was no way of getting around it. Not that we had anything to hide. Me and my one cousin were both 16 and my younger cousin was 13. My mom doesn't drink. My dad doesn't drink when he knows he's gonna be driving...

So, my dad rolled down his window, and the cop asked him if he'd been drinking... My dad said no, and we were waved right through. However, some concertgoers were not as lucky...

I looked at the area where people pulled over for field sobriety tests and recognized a couple vehicles from the Montage Mountain parking lot (including a 1980s 2WD Dodge Ramcharger; not exactly a common vehicle even back then); I would not be surprised if more than a few people who had valid driver's licenses when they left home for the concert came back home with suspended licenses...



But only if you designate a driver!

 

Yea, sounds pretty bad when you put it like that, my bad. I was thinking more like the other situations tho.

 

No, it does not "depend". The wire from the back of the radio goes to a connector in the passenger side pillar. You DO NOT NEED to remove the radio to change the antenna. END OF STORY.

 

Halloween 2015:
My boss regularly uses these washable chalk markers, and I decided to use my truck to send a message... However, boss wasn't keen on me parking the truck outside her bar with this written on it and I had to wipe it off...

 

MMMMMM, steak subs...

 

This was back in late summer-early fall 2016...

I am a lot better not just at driving, but at parking, than most people think...

 

Please DO NOT post anything related to politics, as that's what got my whole "PA Inspections" thread entirely deleted last time.

This thread is based on a conversation my dad and I had recently, and we both agree that the way the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania does vehicle inspections constitutes a major conflict of interests.

How many people think allowing emissions testing and safety inspections to be done by dealers, gas stations, and independent mechanics (In layperson's terms the very same people who profit from performing maintenance on and repairing vehicles)?

By comparison, New Jersey stopped doing safety inspections entirely in like 2010. Jersey also has independent emissions testing facilities where you remain in the car while they do the work and it takes like 10-15 minutes. On top of that, brand new vehicles purchased and/or registered in New Jersey are exempt for emissions testing for the first 5 years of ownership, regardless of miles driven or number of owners in that time! If your vehicle fails, they tell you what's wrong with it, and you are granted an extension to drive it to a mechanic for repairs.

Luckily, I take my truck to my dad's mechanic who is very honest and just does what needs to be done. He routinely gives me and my parents military discounts because of my dad's status as a Navy veteran. Before we take a long family trip, my dad's mechanic will also do a checkup on my parents' vehicles for free! That should tell you how honest my mechanic is. He even lets me hang out in the shop while he's changing my oil (now you know why I got so pissed at my Toyota dealer for not letting me retrieve my GPS out of my truck 2 weeks ago)!

The Commonwealth of Virginia only requires emissions testing and a safety inspection every two years, and only in the DC suburbs is emissions testing required. Everywhere else only requires a safety inspection.

 

I saw this shirt at a souvenir shop in Kennebunkport last summer and was about to buy it but my mom didn't like it too much, so I put it back to humor her...

 

Bitchin defender!

 

This does not just apply to drunk and/or unruly customers, but also to off-duty bar employees like myself when they come to the bar where they work as a customer:



Translation: One of the girls who bartends at Puck poured me a lager draft and said it was on the house when I tried to give her not just the $3 for the lager but a substantial tip as well. I'd been getting a lot of free drinks lately and felt kind of guilty, and one of the other barbacks happened to be behind the bar as well. He basically told me that if the bartender pours me a drink and says it's on the house, then I don't need to feel guilty about it or question it...

Another Asperger's thing... It took me quite a while to realize not only that people in the service industry are like family and often go out of their way to help each other out and hook each other up, but also that people genuinely do like me whether I work at a bar or not, and they're not buying me a beer or a shot just because they feel sorry for me or want me to leave them alone...

 

Also, if anybody is reading this and is either new to the service industry or thinking of getting a job in it....

Here is a bit of VERY IMPORTANT advice...

You ALWAYS OVERTIP your coworkers when you go the bar or restaurant where you work as a customer!

Even before I started working at Puck, I always tipped bartenders and waiters/waitresses/servers at least 20%, sometimes more. I honestly cannot remember a time when I left a lousy tip when somebody provided lousy service. When the service did suck, it was never the server's fault.

My boss, Sam, told me to always overtip when I'm eating and/or drinking at Puck as a customer. It's just an unwritten rule, kind of like not touching someone's vehicle at a car show without their permission (look and photograph all you want, but DON'T TOUCH!). I once tipped my friend Gary (bartender and barback) so much for a pint of Nugget Nectar that he came up to me moments later to make sure I hadn't left too much money on the bar by mistake.

 

In fact I will bring the truck to you just tell me where to come


I might learn something

I did not buy this truck new according to the VIN it had a power antenna that had been removed if there was a connector it was long gone

Then things could very well have changed since my truck was built in 2000

I have changed two antennas if there was a connector I would love to have one

 

@Plain Jane Taco
@LocoLocal
@Iamraiderpower

This picture was taken in about June 1994. That's my dad's 1993 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer. Yes, that is a trio of baboons climbing onto the hood of my dad's Blazer....



Does anybody know where this might be?

FYI, I know exactly where the picture was taken. I'm just curious to see how many people ask if my Navy veteran father was stationed overseas at some point in his career and took his vehicle with him...

 

@Plain Jane Taco
@LocoLocal
@Iamraiderpower

August 2015:

How many men does it take to move a heat pump?


The shitty 2004 Goodman 10 SEER 3.5-ton heat pump that came with my grandma's huge condo finally died in July 2015. This shiny new 4-ton Carrier with a 2-stage compressor is it's replacement!

 

@Plain Jane Taco
@LocoLocal
@Iamraiderpower

Detailed photo mashup of my Grandma's new heat pump getting installed back in August 2015!

My Grandma's condo was built in 1993-1994. She bought it from the 2nd owner in 2006. My interest in HVAC didn't really reach it's peak until 2008-2009; Back in 2006, I'd heard of companies like Carrier, Trane, York, and Lennox, but I'd never heard of Goodman; I also had no idea how a heat pump worked, or what the hell a heat pump was, at the time; I first learned what a heat pump was in 2007, when out of curiosity, I asked my aunt if her house had gas or oil heat).

Like all of the homes in the neighborhood, my grandma's house originally came with a York heat pump, a York air handler, and a gas boiler (converted to propane) tied into the system to act as emergency/backup heat. The York had been gone for two years when my Grandma bought the house. This POS is a 2004 Goodman 3.5-ton 10 SEER heat pump, the York's replacement. The York air handler was also replaced with a Goodman model, and the propane boiler was deactivated. The house now relies solely on electric heat, which is expensive to run, but much cheaper than propane.

This picture was taken after one of the techs hooked up the vacuum pump to evacuate the system of R-22...




New Carrier variable-speed air handler, on the back of the truck...




2004 Goodman single-stage air handler (still technically in working condition, but useless without the outdoor unit)...




Here is the Trianco HeatMaker boiler that came with the house back in the early 90s. After seeing this thing in various YouTube videos made since 2008, my viewers have told me that this is actually a very expensive and high-quality boiler. Obviously it is no longer hooked up to propane and presumably hasn't been since the Goodman system was installed in 2004 (that's 13 years as of this post). At an absolute bare minimum I would have it looked at by a qualified technician, and more than likely have it tuned up, but after I see absolutely no reason why it wouldn't fire right up when connected to a fuel source.

Heat pumps with no gas or oil backup area useless once it gets into the 40s or colder...

The exception to this is when you have natural gas instead of electric heat as your backup/supplementary/emergency heat, but if you have electric backup heat, it's like electing the aforementioned politician and then seeing taxes go up immediately after. You'd be better off withdrawing a few hundred bucks a month from your savings account and burning it in your fireplace, because that's pretty much what you're doing if you try to heat your house solely with electricity...

Here's the Trianco...




New Carrier air handler again...




Bye-bye, Goodman!




The primary problem with this Goodman is that the compressor crapped out. If the warranty is expired, replacing a compressor alone is $2,000-$3,000 after parts, labor, and taxes. This whole Goodman system (heat pump and air handler plus parts and labor) probably only cost about $3,000 or $4,000 installed brand new back in 2004, and this heat pump is probably one of the worst heat pumps of it's time (In layperson's terms, NOT WORTH IT). When the service access panel was removed, we discovered this. This tin can is the run capacitor, which my Grandma replaced about 2 or 3 years before the heat pump died completely.

Trust me when I say that I went out of my way to make sure this POS lasted as possible, and when my Grandma told me it died (the new Carrier was system was almost $8,000), I made it sure it was not the run cap again (a $200 fix). The condenser fan motor would run when the thermostat was switched on, a telltale sign that the run cap is not bad, because the fan wouldn't be able to turn on if the run cap was bad. However, looking at the actual run cap that day and this picture almost 2 years later, I think there was a serious electrical problem or a short of some sort that did this...




I would never install a Goodman product in my own home, but when you buy a house and it comes with a Goodman system, there's no point in blowing $5,000-$7,000 on a whole new system just because you dislike the brand. My parents' new house (built 2015-2016) has two Goodman systems (straight-cool A/C units and gas furnaces; 2.5-ton unit for 1st floor/basement and 2-ton unit for 2nd floor), and my grandma's house came with this thing...




The job of an air-conditioner (central, window, wall, automotive) is to condition the air by lowering the temperature and removing humidity to make the space more comfortable. Contrary to popular belief, cold air is just a byproduct of the air-conditioning process. In cooling mode, an air-source heat pump operates just like a straight-cool air-conditioner. In heat mode, a heat pump operates pretty much like a refrigerator (whether it's that overpriced side-by-side in your kitchen, the beat up 1980s fridge in the basement or garage where you keep your beer, or the walk-in cooler at every restaurant or bar, all refrigerators and freezers operate the same way). There are a few different types of heat pump, but for now let's focus on air-source heat pumps like the late Mr. Goodman here...




The first thing you should know is that there is ambient heat in the air all the way down to ABSOLUTE ZERO (-451℉ if I'm not mistaken). Manufacturers torture test outdoor units (Straight-cool A/C units and heat pumps) in simulated environments, but once a heat pump is installed at someone's home or business, it probably will not be exposed to temperatures lower than -20℉ (places like Indiana, Ohio, or my home state of Pennsylvania).

Once it gets below freezing, the heat pump is supplemented by the backup heat (typically electric or natural gas; sometimes oil or propane). I do not know at what temperature a heat pump will just cease to function. Even in Pennsylvania, where I've seen (and have videos of on YouTube) numerous heat pumps including this one running in temperatures of below 25℉ and/or with snow partially blocking the condenser coil. I've never gotten a straight answer from a person or a book about the temperature at which a heat pump will just totally cease to function and the electric backup heat takes over completely. Basically, a heat pump is a heat mover. It extracts heat from the outside air, and pumps it into the home at which it is installed. Standalone heat pumps work great in mild climates, but the farther North you get, the less effective they are. If you live anywhere above the Carolinas, gas or oil heat (whether it's forced air or hot water) will kick the ass of even the most efficient heat pump any day of the week...




However, combining a heat pump and a forced air furnace (Commonly called "Dual-Fuel" or "Hybrid Heat") is a different story. When it's about 40℉ or higher and you just want to take the chill out of the air, an electric heat pump is cheaper to run than even a natural gas furnace depending on where you live (Natural gas is the cheapest and most common; Propane in an onsite tank is good for when public gas is not available but more expensive; Oil is efficient in terms of keeping a house comfortable, but refilling the tank costs a fortune). Depending on individual preferences and environmental/regional factors, the furnace can be set to completely take over at any time. 35℉ to 40℉ is about average. The furnace will also kick in when the heat pump is defrosting (I'll do a whole post defrost cycles later)...




A few older Goodman/Janitrol products were of good quality and would actually last if you took care of them (1989-1994 models with the isolated compressor in particular), but in my opinion 1995-2005 Goodman/Janitrol products are junk, with few exceptions (one such exception to the rule I've personally seen is the 1996 Janitrol at my aunt's old house in the Atlanta area).

Ironically, the old man who my Grandma bought the condo from was a millionaire. He had a Porsche in the garage, but when the original York died in 2004, he was too cheap to buy even a base model Carrier or Lennox.

Take a look at the fan grill on my Grandma's Goodman, and notice how it's starting to rust around the screws that hold the fan motor in place. There are pictures and videos of Goodman condensing units like this one that literally crack under the pressure from metal fatigue and end up looking like a hand grenade went off inside them. The metal condenser guards are terribly flimsy and having taking this thing apart to clean it back in 2010-2011, I can tell you from experience that they are a bitch to put back together because the fit and finish just sucks (the louvered grill guard is like a soda can, and screw holes don't line up, among other things)...




If this thing had a SCROLL compressor instead of a reciprocating compressor, it would probably still be running today. Copeland is the most well-known and widely used brand of scroll compressor (Trane is the only company in North America to make it's own compressors). Ironically, the reciprocating compressor in the 2004 Goodman was a Copeland. The benefits of a scroll compressor over a recip are noise level, durability, and efficiency...




This Goodman is a 2004, 11 years old when it died, and the paint is literally chipping. My parents' old house was built in 2007 and came with dual 2-ton Carrier 13 SEER A/C units. When we sold the house almost 9 years later, the paint was a bit faded from exposure to the elements, but they still looked good...




These are risers, obligatory for heat pumps installed wherever it snows in the winter...




In 2006, Goodman redesigned the exterior appearance of it's air-conditioners and heat pumps, which resulted in a slight boost in quality, and started exclusively using Copeland Scroll compressors in all of it's residential and light commercial central air-conditioners and heat pumps. They also bought the Amana's HVAC division and started making higher-end, higher-efficiency units with features like 2-stage compressors and efficiency as high as 16-18 SEER. This unit, however, is a 10 SEER. In 1992, the government stepped in and required all new residential central air-conditioners and heat pumps to be at least 10 SEER (before then 8 SEER was the never-enforced minimum); More efficient (expensive) units manufactured prior to 1992 were anywhere from 9 to 12 SEER. In layperson's terms, SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) is to an air-conditioner or heat pump what MPG is to a motor vehicle. In 2006, the minimum SEER was raised to 13, and I think they might be raising it to 14-15 this year. Heat pumps not only have a SEER for cooling, but an HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) for heating. As of 2017, I believe the mandatory minimum is 7.7 HSPF. These days, even the cheapest heat pumps are above 8 HSPF. My friend's parents' 16 SEER Bryant heat pump from 2010 has an HSPF of 9.

Look how flimsy that is...




The residential split-system heat pump as we know it now came out in the late 1950s, but a 1958 TIME magazine about their installation at a condo complex in Florida actually said that they were too inefficient to be used anywhere farther North. The oldest functional heat pump I've seen In Pennsylvania was an early 1970s Carrier "Spam Can." Prior to about 1985-1986, the HSPF rating of a typical residential air-source heat pump was 5-6 HSPF or less. Until the late 1980s, 8 SEER for air-conditioners and heat pumps was considered high efficiency, and most new units manufactured prior to about 1985 were 6 SEER at the most.

These coils did a great job of protecting the outdoor coil/condenser from damage, but they were also great at keeping fingers and water from the hose out. On the other hand, they let grass, dirt, mulch, leaves, and other shit in without a problem. Look at all that grass and shit in there. The damage to the base pan was caused by yours truly back in like 2010-2011, when damage from a severe ice storm caused the grill guard to pop out, and I resorted to prying the edge back to pop it back into place...




New disconnect box for Carrier that ended up not being needed...



Foam insulation for low pressure side of lineset...




For a little over an hour in August 2015, my Grandma's house effectively had no A/C or heat!




This may be the original disconnect box that was installed with the York back in 1993-1994, but it was still in good condition and up to code in 2015, so it stayed...




Often times when a house has a finished basement (like my Grandma's house), much of the line set is buried behind drywall. Instead of hacking through the drywall to replace the line set, techs will use a sealed vacuum to reclaim all old refrigerant and oil. Even if the new system has the same refrigerant as the old system, this is essential to prevent cross-contamination. Ever since R410a replaced R-22 in 2009, this is becoming much less common. Obviously the bargain-basement 2004 Goodman had R-22 and the mid-range 2015 Carrier had R410a. Existing lines can be switched from R-22 to R410a, but they MUST be completely cleaned out. If you try to run an R410a system on R-22, or vice versa, the compressor will be destroyed in minutes (at least then you're just looking at a compressor replacement and not replacing everything except the furnace; The furnace and A/C use the same ducts and blower motor, but are two separate systems). If R-22 and R410a and their oils mix, then the whole system will be contaminated and everything except the furnace probably will have to be replaced. DO NOT MIX R-22 AND R410A! IF YOU MUST REUSE EXISTING LINES/TUBING, THOROUGHLY DECONTAMINATE THE SYSTEM AFTER RECLAIMING THE R-22!

My grandparents, and the install crew, got lucky. The indoor unit is literally right there, and none of the lines are hidden or blocked, so they just ripped the old tubing out. All new systems come factory charged, and there wound up being just enough refrigerant in the system that none had to be added. They checked the levels to be sure, but it wasn't needed!

Oxidized copper tubing, circa 1994...




I keep forgetting what the hell this thing is; I think it was a thermometer that shut down the heat pump and switched entirely to the Trianco, but it was rendered useless when the propane backup system was decommissioned...




For an 11-year old builder grade unit, it doesn't look that bad. This picture was taken from a distance, but even when you're standing next to it you have to really look to see the flaws. Back in 2004, this thing was similar in color to the camouflage on a Desert Storm-era Humvee. 11 years of Pennsylvania weather turned it to more of a grayish beige...




The Goodman air handler after being removed...




Again, for probably a little over an hour, my Grandma's condo officially had no A/C or heat...



I loved taking common household items (and my own toys) apart when I was a kid to see how they worked, including but not limited to toy cars, VCRs, an clothes iron, a hairdryer, a curling iron, numerous car stereos, a residential heat pump (not this one), and even toasters... But contrary to what some people might think, this is not the inside of a toaster I dissected!

This is the roughly 15kw electric strip heat that supplemented the Goodman when it was really cold out or when it was defrosting, and took over entirely when it was TOO COLD. It worked in terms of keeping the house at 68℉, but it cost a fortune to run.

Seriously, if your house has a heat pump with electric backup, it's being heated by oversized toaster coils

NOTE TO SURVIVALISTS: With minimal modifications, one could probably make a redneck central heat griddle and whip up some mean grilled cheese...




Brand new Carrier variable-speed air handler with 15kw electric backup heat...



New Carrier heat pump...



The pad the Goodman was mounted on was pretty much lost to the mulch/quicksand sometime prior to 2010, and when they dug it out it was pretty much ruined, so they put this new one down on top of some fresh gravel...



I ask again, how many men does it take to move a heat pump? Apparently three...




And, the new heat pump!

 

One thing I recently noticed is that prior to about 1987, SEER ratings were virtually nonexistent; Not only in literature (owner's manuals, sales brochures, print ads, etc), but on the units themselves. From 1987 until 1992, the unwritten minimum rating was 8 SEER (if the house in which you currently reside was built in 1991 or before and has the original central A/C unit or heat pump that was installed when it was new, you've got an 8 SEER unit. That's when it was new, though... Age and routine wear and tear has probably reduced that to 4-6 SEER. If your house was retrofitted with central air after it was built, but before 1992, you may have gotten a 9 or 10 SEER, but you'd still be damn lucky to be getting anymore than 7 SEER out of it today.

In my opinion, SEER is just what the unit capable of achieving. Units made prior to about 1985 were technically inefficient, but if you perform basic maintenance (like keeping the unit clean) and didn't set the thermostat below 70℉, your electric bill during cooling season would not be terribly high. Also, a well-built and well-insulated house with energy-efficient double-pane windows is more important than "efficient" A/C and heating system.

When it comes to furnaces, if your furnace is operating at less than 70% AFUE, you should replace it. But this is about air-conditioners and heat pumps (mostly air-conditioners; The oldest heat pumps I've recorded actually running were a bunch 1984 Carrier units, and they were in COOL mode on a 95℉+ day). I will, however, make note of one thing. All but two of the central air-conditioners featured in these videos are cool-only systems, meaning the heat is separate from the A/C. The central heat in these homes and businesses is provided by boilers (fueled by gas or oil) that heat up water and heat the house via baseboard heaters, radiators, or even tubing beneath the floor. This is more expensive to install than forced air heat, but so much better in so many ways. But again, this is about COOLING. The point I am trying to make is that all but two of the old air-conditioners I've filmed in the last 9 years have been cool-only systems. I think this may play a role in longevity.

One of my more bizarre hobbies is seeking out vintage central air-conditioners, making videos of them running, and posting them on YouTube to so future generations can get a glimpse of an era when people took pride in their work, and things they built were actually built to last.

1964 Trane 2-ton central air-conditioner (Video made in 2012; Unit died in 2013 and was replaced with a builder-grade, generic-brand model; It'll be a miracle if the new one lasts 20 years; at my friend's neighbor's house; House was built in 1964 and central air was installed when it was built; in the same neighborhood as the 1968 Yorks below):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3egT9_hbU0

Dual 1968 York/Borg-Warner Champion "Tabletop" central air-conditioners (Both are original to the house and were installed when it was built in 1968; One died in 2013 and was replaced with a base York A/C unit; Other one is still going almost 50 years later; These are at the home of a woman who paid me to walk her dog):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPQxI4A4kYs&list=PLE2E89762AFB91FA2&index=3

1969 Lennox central air-conditioner (ONE of TWO matched with a forced air gas furnace; This was at my ex-girlfriend's parents' old house; Died in 2014-2015; Furnace actually outlasted A/C but both were replaced with a new Lennox system):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XovJdsEBQcE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9N-sSZYaz8

Early 1970s (unknown year) Carrier Challenger 38GS "Spam Can" 3.5-ton central air-conditioner at car dealership (Video from 2011 or 2012; Don't know if it died, but it was replaced like 4 years ago anyway):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etp7T0QYqaU

Dual 1972 Addison 5-ton A/C units at a bar (Videos are from 2011; I haven't been to this place in years but I drive by it all the time and both are still there; Made a a bet with the bartender that if I made a video of the A/C units, they'd get over a hundred views within a week; I won):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6TzKkoW3g0&index=6&list=PLE2E89762AFB91FA2
This is the 2nd unit (which wasn't running when I made the first video; At some point in the 1990s, it got backed into by a drunk driver!):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6TzKkoW3g0&index=6&list=PLE2E89762AFB91FA2

1973 Lennox central air-conditioner at old house rezoned as commercial building (died in 2011 and replaced with new Lennox):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzC4MnsgCdo

1973-1977 General Electric Executive central air-conditioner at a church (made video in 2012; unit still there in 2017):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGwB-7C5oOI

1975 York Champion "Tombstone" central air-conditioner at old house:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLOJJMo-_1U

1981 York Champion "Tabletop" central air-conditioner at my friend's house (TWO of TWO with forced air gas furnace; A/C still works; furnace does not):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxl5s-1ZSfA