Wiring an Aux Fuse Block, Relays and Switches in a 2016

Do you think heavy duty double sided tape would hold the husky box to the top of the factory fuse box?

Also, since my ditch lights and light bar will come with witing harnesses, do you see an issue with just trimming the length of the wires down and running the pos and grind through the fuse block (relays are already on each harness) Seems like a waste to get them and not use them.

 

If the tape is good enough then yes it could work. I actually managed to get the 6 fuse block, circuit breaker and 5 relays all on the bottom. I don't have a need for all 5 but I'm prepping for any future need.

As for the wiring, I'm going to start off by saying I'm in no way an expect on the subject. So take this info with some salt. If you have relays built in already I wold go ahead and use them. The whole point of this project is to have everything centralized. So you could cut them out and but them in the box then run new wire. Or cut the wire and extend it with the relays still in the box. I guess it just comes down to how you want it to look. If you plan on adding a lot of extras in then keep them out of the box. If that's all the lights you plan on having, then I would put the relays in the box.

I have mine nearly wired up, I'll try and post a pic tonight.

I hope this helps. If it doesn't make sense it's because its early and I haven't had my coffee yet.

 

Thanks!

 

I forgot I took this last night. Still have more work to do but everything is about 80% done.

 

what size loom did you use to run the wires through that plug?

 

One that fit...

Seriously though I do not remember. I had several in my tool box and I just picked the one that was a tight fit. Sorry I'm not more help.

 

Will this work with the normal tacoma switches. I am confused on where all the wires on the back of the switch would connect mostly the green wire, would that connect back to the relay?

 

Just used one of these switches to move my ECT button.
It will work in the tall and skinny factory blanks. (The ones on the left of the steering column)

Green would come from your fuse box and be spliced with your relay.
Red 1: connects back to the relay.
Red 2 is spliced into your Dash lighting circuit. I spiced mine from the bed lights switch. ( Easy to access)
Black is also spiced into the Dash lights, but to the ground from it. (I think the Tan colored wires are ground)

At least that's the way I understand it, but then again I am a Noob to this.

 

A couple questions for you and OP, Did y'all end up running 16 or 14 gauge wire in your boxes? I'm looking to have a similar setup, would there be enough clearance in the box to stack relays on top of each other (2 high)?

 

I run 16G wire, but you could run 14. I have all the wires that go into the cab crossing the hood and entering through a nipple on the passenger side wiring boot. This includes the wires for my pop-n-lock and the red/black pair for my interior USB circuit. As for stacking relays, I wouldn't recommend it as the height clearance would be tight and I'm not sure how you'd fasten them. If you can plan it out at time of install you could get them side by side nice and tight in the blank space. Had I planned it out and needed them I could probably fit about 6 relays in there, and that would be one per circuit, which is more than I currently need.

 

Thanks I'll have to spend a little time getting things right during the install. Additionally, what made y'all go with a Blue Sea box with external relays vice one of these Fused Relays wired to a distribution block for power, and another distribution block for ground?

 

To be honest, I didn't know fused relays existed, and I actually use the Blue Sea box as a distribution box for both relayed and non-relayed circuits. I could probably have just had a hot bus and a return bus, but I liked having both in the Blue Sea along with the fuse holder.

That said, I'm a big copy cat who likes to take other people's ideas, improve them, own them, then admit I took someone else's inspiration.

 

I'm right there with you as far as taking an idea and improving upon it. Honestly the only benefit of the fused relays would be a smaller area taken up by the two distribution blocks. Not necessarily a cleaner install, but since I'm looking to have 12 circuits wired into my box, it might be a reasonable option. The price difference is non existent as far as my application, but since y'all only ran 6 circuits, you actually picked the cheaper option. Either way your boxes look great!

 

Thought I'd add mine here built it the day before I left for Big Bend to run all my lights and accessories. Mine is a 6 circuit box 150amp main on outside of box.

 

See I'd love to do something like that in a box small enough to fit behind the OEM fuse box. I haven't been with my truck so I'm not sure of the measurements back there but I'd like to have easy access to my other box without having to disconnect/move my AUX fuse box out of the way. Plus it would look cleaner. Either way form follows function, and your box works! Thanks for sharing.

 

Mine has enough slack I the wiring to remove the lid of the factory fuse box with out issue. Just Un clip and fold to the front.

 

Gotchya. Your set up is perfect then! Out of curiosity, what do you have alligator clipped to your batter in the second picture?

 

I had my logic probe or power probe hooked up. Basically a fancy test light with a volt meter and 20 mega ohms of internal impedance.

 

In one of my pre-designs I had them stacked. The husky box comes with a bunch of different sized dividers. I drilled a hole in the smallest and was able to stack two on their on top of each other then bolt the to the divider. You can do this on both sides of the divider. I went against this because the divider and relay would move very easily (at least without wires).

Also, I didn't know the fused relays existed either.


Also part 2, other than the titan strap, has anyone else come up with a good way to secure the box?