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Obz Build Thread, with a Harley, and now a Tundra (Pic Heavy)

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Builds (2016-2023)' started by obz, Mar 10, 2017.

  1. Mar 26, 2017 at 7:27 AM
    #41
    MarX

    MarX Hotdogs, spam and skittles.

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    2013 DCLB Tacoma TRD sorta Sport 4X4, 2009 Tundra SR5 workhorse
    RETRAX bed cover, Tailgate lock, TRD exhaust. 887's, LR UCA'S, Bilstein 5100's and Deavers AAL.
    Looking good OP ready to see it finished. Get to rock mine out soon too. Wish I had your garage to do it in, got a one car lol
     
  2. Mar 26, 2017 at 7:42 AM
    #42
    schmack b

    schmack b Well-Known Member

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    Loving your build bud.
     
  3. Mar 26, 2017 at 7:20 PM
    #43
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All done... finally. I don't know who says this crap only takes them 3 hours. In total I was probably 12 hours. Granted I'm slow and wanted everything to be perfect, but still. Took FOREVER!! Pics and more info below:

    Stock ride height:

    IMG_0654.jpg IMG_0655.jpg

    For all of you who don't tool a ton, this one left me stumped. When I would try to get the bolt off, it just spun. You've got to grab the little nipple on the end of the bolt with a crescent wrench and it'll hold the shock still and keep it from spinning. Who knew?!?!?

    IMG_0657.jpg

    Shock removed:

    IMG_0660.jpg

    Soooo, this whole thing. Everyone said all you had to do was grind down the rivet and then use a punch to push the rivet out. Yeah, that dog don't hut. I spent 2 hours trying to get it out on the passenger side. Didn't come out. So instead I decided to pull the bracket off and just grind it down to the leaf. Took 15 minutes on the drivers side.

    IMG_0661.jpg

    You can see where I cut the bracket after I had ground down the head. Once I ground the head, the bracket just fell off.

    IMG_0662.jpg

    Little bit better shot of where I ground it down.

    IMG_0663.jpg

    Now you can't just leave bare metal under there. So I HAD to paint it. I hate rusty looking springs. Sprayed some primer under there on both sides:

    IMG_0664.jpg IMG_0665.jpg

    Little bit of Rustoliam satin black:

    IMG_0666.jpg


    Getting the AAL lined up sucked BIG TIME. Took quite a while to get them through the bolt, but the C clamps helped. Loading in the shock below:


    IMG_0667.jpg

    All mounted up on the passenger side. Looks hot. I adjusted them all to their stiffest setting just to see how harsh the ride was. You'll also notice, no overload. Icon doesn't recommend them for their AAL.

    IMG_0668.jpg

    Driver side all put together. Interestingly, the adjuster valve switch will hit the shock mount if you're not careful. I twisted it to its stiffest setting (since that's all the way out) and lined it up in there with the clamps. I've now got room to adjust.

    IMG_0669.jpg

    This is my fun e-brake line "mount". I can't believe they don't give you something to replace your standard mount on your overload springs. I was thinking about drilling a whole and then bolting it down but I was tired. A project for another day perhaps. 3 zip ties will have to hold it for now.

    IMG_0670.jpg

    Tires all mounted up. Looks SEXY!!

    IMG_0671.jpg IMG_0672.jpg

    Everything all done.

    IMG_0676.jpg


    A couple of notes - if you do this yourself take your time. Rushing isn't needed. I drove it around and no clanking, clinging, rubbing, nothing. Sounds just like stock. Suspension was stiff for sure, but that was on purpose. I've got the settings on the reservoirs to their stiffest. Wanted to see how "terrible" it rode. Yeah, it was a LITTLE stiffer than the stock sport suspension, but I'll be honest, not much. I DEFINITELY need an alignment. That's all sorts of nightmare on the front end. Wheel doesn't return to center, super stiff, etc. My measurements are the following:

    Pre-lift:

    Front Driver - 20.5"
    Rear Driver - 21.5"
    Front Passenger - 21"
    Rear Passenger - 21.5"

    Post-lift:

    Front Driver - 23 1/4"
    Rear Driver - 23 1/4"
    Front Passenger - 23 3/4"
    Rear Passenger - 23 3/4"

    After getting the rear lift on, the weight redistributed and pushed that front end down a little bit under the 3", but just barely (1/4"). Sucker sits pretty dang level though! Very happy with how it turned out, but honestly it sucked - not $800 sucked like some places want to charge you, but it did suck. Doing it over again I could go faster for sure. Anyhow now it needs those wheels and tires. That should hopefully be coming tomorrow - weather permitting...
     
    Iron and WhiteBeltBatman like this.
  4. Mar 26, 2017 at 7:31 PM
    #44
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh, something else. It now sits flush height-wise with my wife's Yukon XL. I always hated that it was shorter, now she can't "look down" on me.
     
  5. Mar 26, 2017 at 10:31 PM
    #45
    lose_money

    lose_money Well-Known Member

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    King 2.5, Icon AAL, SCS Ray10 16x8
    I installed them backwards on passenger side and correct way on the driver side
     
  6. Mar 27, 2017 at 5:18 AM
    #46
    MarX

    MarX Hotdogs, spam and skittles.

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    RETRAX bed cover, Tailgate lock, TRD exhaust. 887's, LR UCA'S, Bilstein 5100's and Deavers AAL.
    Truck looks good can't wait to see it with the new wheels.
     
  7. Mar 27, 2017 at 3:19 PM
    #47
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well didn't get to do the alignment today. That's coming tomorrow. I actually made an appt with the dealership to have it done. Wanted MUCH less than my local wheeler shop and were going to do the TPMS swap/tire mount for way cheaper too. I'll take it! Getting my 5K service done while I'm at it too. Might as well, right?
     
  8. Mar 28, 2017 at 7:24 PM
    #48
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well got the wheels and tires installed today. The alignment is all screwed up. Dealership said "we can't adjust your caster because of the lift." So now I've got to look for someone who can/will. Idiots. Pics coming soon... hopefully...
     
  9. Mar 29, 2017 at 6:58 PM
    #49
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, here's a teaser (I still need to take better pictures - this one is all drown out). Truck is going to go under the knife on Friday to help with the rubbing of the inner fender well. Also going to do a CMC on it next week. Buddy has a welder and just ordered a CMC plate from @JLee to do the job. Should be pretty straight forward from what I've read and can tell. We'll get those tires not rubbing yet...

    IMG_0726.jpg
     
  10. Mar 29, 2017 at 8:53 PM
    #50
    jdkarmy

    jdkarmy Well-Known Member

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    Congrats! Looking great! I gotta get in on the next batch of Ray10s. Can you post up a profile pic whenever you get a chance?
     
  11. Mar 30, 2017 at 7:25 AM
    #51
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here's a slightly better profile pic... still need to take some better pictures.

    IMG_0737.jpg
     
    MGMTaco17 likes this.
  12. Mar 30, 2017 at 2:54 PM
    #52
    MGMTaco17

    MGMTaco17 Well-Known Member

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    2017 DCSB TRD Sport. TRD Pro Grille. Morimoto Elite 35W HID Headlights. Morimoto XB LED Fog Lights. Clazzio All Black Leather Seat Covers. 32" LED Light Bar Bumper Stealth Mount. BHLM. Raptor Light Kit. Leer 100R. Bilstein 6112/5100 set at 3rd notch. LT275/70-17 C-Load Hercules Terra Trac AT2. Bora .750" Wheel Spacers.
    Super nice!!! Getting ready to install a similar setup but with ICON Billet UCAs and Coil overs. Planning on getting the same exact tires, love them. BFG KO2s 285/70/17's. I thought I've done enough research on them, but I guess not? I thought that if I lift the front 2.5-3" I would have no rubbing issues with the tire size 285/70/17's? I thought other people did the same set up with zero rubbing issues? Cant you help explain that to me. Thanks
     
  13. Mar 30, 2017 at 4:34 PM
    #53
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure why others aren't rubbing, but I've only found a couple that are running this same wheel/tire setup. The backspacing on the Ray10's are pretty aggressive making them stick out. That's what's causing the rubbing I think. Pull them in and it helps A TON from what I gather. Cutting and CMC isn't that big of a deal. It doesn't look like there's anything behind the inner fender and not a TON needs to be cut, just the bottom. I'll post pics once I do the hacking that should help you out. The CMC is a little different, but you only hit the cab mount at full lock.
     
    MGMTaco17[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Mar 30, 2017 at 4:35 PM
    #54
    MGMTaco17

    MGMTaco17 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the explanation, helped a lot. I'm not familiar with the term CMC? Are you cutting your frame mounts like some people had to do and weld it with a cap?
     
  15. Mar 30, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #55
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry Cab Mount Chop (CMC). This gives a little bit of explanation...

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/b-a-m-f-cmc-plates-cab-mount-chop.192527/

    You basically cut back where the cab mount is so the tires can clear and then weld in a new flat piece. I'm not a welder by any means, but I've got a friend that is going to do it for me and I trust whole heartedly. There are typically guys that will do it for you if they own an offroad shop, that is unless you can do it yourself. The kits make it easier too.
     
    MGMTaco17[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Mar 30, 2017 at 8:19 PM
    #56
    MGMTaco17

    MGMTaco17 Well-Known Member

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    Got it, that's what I thought you meant. Thanks for that. Now I'm debating what I should do because I hate cutting into a brand new truck. Need to find out what offset would cause no rubbing on the bfg ko2s 285/70/17s. Thanks again. Your truck by far one of the nicest I've seen in awhile for my taste preference.
     
  17. Mar 30, 2017 at 8:22 PM
    #57
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, 285's are tough. Most guys have to do at least a CMC when they're stuffed in the wheel well unless you go with a 16 from what I've read. You may be better getting 275's instead. That cuts out about 1/2" which will help with the clearing. I'm not a big fan of cutting stuff either frankly (my truck has 200 miles on it), but at this point I don't have much of a choice. That ship sailed... :)
     
    MGMTaco17[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Mar 30, 2017 at 8:26 PM
    #58
    MGMTaco17

    MGMTaco17 Well-Known Member

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    Ya good point. Are 275s 32s then? Since 285s are 33s. Also maybe you know, but does doing the CMC void any warranties? I would imagine it would. Don't want to risk it if it does.
     
  19. Mar 30, 2017 at 8:30 PM
    #59
    obz

    obz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    More or less. You can look here and see the size differences:

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=285-70r17-275-70r17

    I would guess the CMC would only void the warranty if they can associate an issue with it. I don't know what they could though. I don't know that they're going to say your transmission failure had anything to do with cutting your cab mount.
     
  20. Mar 30, 2017 at 8:31 PM
    #60
    MGMTaco17

    MGMTaco17 Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha ya definitely true. Thanks for the link. I'll check that out
     
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