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Can't get Caster into spec after Icon UCA install.

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by g8erh8er, Jan 11, 2016.

  1. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:39 AM
    #1
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Installed my UCA's and coilovers on Saturday and set at 3 inches of lift. Right away I noticed how tight the steering was - like really tight. When you turn into a corner the wheel wants to keep on that line. I've read a post that says this is typical of the Icon uniballs when first installed, and they will loosen up over time. I did have to beat them hard with a rubber mallet to get them aligned with the spindles when installing.

    Took truck to get it aligned today, and the tech said he could not get the caster into adjustment due to the tightness of the uniballs. Does this make sense? I have larger tires on order and they told me to drive the truck a while to get things loosened up and then bring it back in when I get the new tires on and they will re-align.

    Here are my before/after numbers. Caster is high. I'm putting on 255/17R-17 tires, so I believe I want my caster to be in the 2.4 range.

    Toe Before: -.10, -.04
    Toe After: .07, .07

    Camber Before: 1.3, 0.9
    Camber After: 1.3, 0.8

    Caster Before: 3.1, 3.8
    Caster After: 3.1, 3.8
     
  2. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:48 AM
    #2
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Which icons? Tube or billet with adjustable heims?
    The whole point of aftermarket UCA's is to get more caster. And no, "tightness of the uniballs" doesn't make any sense at all.
    The ride characteristics you are describing has nothing to do with uniballs. It's a characteristic of caster. More caster means more turn initiation effort, but the truck tracks better on/off road.
    I would consider yourself lucky. Most people on here would give their left nut for that much caster.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:56 AM
    #3
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got the tube Icons. I personally don't like the feel of the steering and would prefer less caster if that's going to make it easier to steer. Since I'm not going to be running large tires, I would think the amount of caster I have is excessive.

    Still don't quite understand why he couldn't get the caster adjusted down though. To my knowledge, with the Icon UCAs, you should be able to put the caster in the mid 2's without sacrificing the camber numbers.
     
  4. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:57 AM
    #4
    00yotasr5

    00yotasr5 Well-Known Member

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    Still have my left nut with caster of 3.0 and still have lots more adjustments left, both side Lol. Something must not be install right but your caster looks good.
     
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  5. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:58 AM
    #5
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Take some pictures of your alignment eccentrics and I can tell you if your alignment tech is full of shit or not.
    Also, see link below for how you can manipulate the eccentrics for camber and caster.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/
     
    T4RFTMFW likes this.
  6. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:20 AM
    #6
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front Driver Side Eccentric
    Front_Driver.jpg

    Rear Driver Side Eccentric
    Rear_Driver.jpg

    Front Passenger Side Eccentric
    Front_Passenger.jpg

    Rear Passenger Side Eccentric
    Rear_Passenger.jpg
     

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  7. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:27 AM
    #7
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Get a new alignment tech. You can clearly move the front eccentric "longer" which will both reduce your camber (get it closer to 0 or slightly negative with IFS) as well as reduce your caster.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:35 AM
    #8
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Understood, he's calling me after lunch to discuss.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:56 AM
    #9
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I checked out your sticky. It says to increase camber, move both eccentrics longer. To decrease caster, move front eccentric longer and rear eccentric shorter.

    So you're saying by just moving the front eccentric longer it will decrease camber in addition to increasing caster without touching the back eccentrics?
     
  10. Jan 11, 2016 at 12:18 PM
    #10
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Moving the front eccentric longer will decrease camber and decrease caster without touching the back eccentrics. Given the rear eccentrics are roughly in the middle, you've got a lot of wiggle room to get more favorable numbers.
     
  11. Jan 11, 2016 at 12:20 PM
    #11
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oops sorry meant to type decrease, decrease. Ok thx for the info!!
     
  12. Jan 12, 2016 at 1:28 PM
    #12
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've come to the conclusion that the tech was just lazy and didn't want to be bothered with getting it into spec. My lot in life.

    I'm not taking it back there until I get my new tires which are on national backorder so it will be a while. In the meantime I'd like to decrease my caster so the steering wheel returns to center a little better.

    Jberry - can you describe the process to adjust the cams? It looks like there's a lock nut in front of the adjustment nut. Do I just loosen the lock nut on both front and rear eccentrics and then turn the adjustment nut on the front eccentrics clockwise (longer)?

    Additionally, I found it odd that my passenger front eccentric is adjusted much shorter than the driver side. Would think you'd want them to be relatively close side to side? Makes me want to return everything to their nuetral position and start fresh.
     
  13. Jan 12, 2016 at 1:33 PM
    #13
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    I wouldn't bother adjusting anything unless you plan on following the entire article. But yes, there is a nut that tightens the essentric down that needs to be loosened. And on the opposite side of the nut you can rotate the eccentric with what looks like a bolt head.

    It's not odd that the eccentrics are different side to side. Completely normal rather. The frame is not perfect and you actually want slightly different alignment numbers to compensate for road crown.
     
  14. Jan 12, 2016 at 1:57 PM
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    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Understood - so turning both fronts clockwise (toward tires) is the correct direction (longer)? And do I need to loosen both the front and rear eccentric lock nuts to adjust just the fronts or are they independent of one another and I can just loosen the fronts? Thx for all your help.
     
  15. Jan 12, 2016 at 4:29 PM
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    Justinlhc

    Justinlhc Not looking for a relationship

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    Just to be clear, when you adjust those it throws ALL of the alignment off. Your toe will need to be corrected afterwards or you will eat tires.
     
  16. Jan 12, 2016 at 4:46 PM
    #16
    g8erh8er

    g8erh8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My tires are 56,000 miles old. They done been eatin up! Not too worried about a little more wear while I wait for the new meats.

    Regardless, I'll do my best to get everything in as close as possible. Just can't stand the feel of the steering right now.
     
  17. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:02 PM
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    Justinlhc

    Justinlhc Not looking for a relationship

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    Haha, gotcha. A tape measure will get you close to where it needs to be.
     
  18. Apr 6, 2017 at 7:58 PM
    #18
    Taco Luvr

    Taco Luvr Well-Known Member

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    Hey there, @jberry813
    If you don't mind offering your opinion, what do my eccentrics tell you?
    The tech who did my alignment says he can't get my caster higher than 2.7
    I've just had King extended coilovers and Total Chaos UCA's installed on my 2016.

    IMG_4486.jpg
    IMG_4485.jpg
    IMG_4484.jpg
    IMG_4483.jpg
     
  19. Apr 7, 2017 at 8:32 AM
    #19
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Your tech sucks
     
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  20. Apr 7, 2017 at 11:16 AM
    #20
    Taco Luvr

    Taco Luvr Well-Known Member

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    Can you elaborate at all? I will not be taking it to the same shop again, but if I could offer some pointers to the next guy, that would be helpful.

    I read your (amazing) write-up on how to do an alignment at home, but if you can offer specifics, that I can't see with my untrained eye, that would be most helpful.

    I can't keep paying $100 over-and-over for people to not get it right.

    Thanks for your time.
     

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