Tips going into installing new suspension

this weekend I plan on putting in total chaos ucas, king coilovers, deaver lead pack and 5125s in the rear.... is there anything you wish you knew beforehand when attacking a build like this at home? Or any extra mods that were required shortly after that you wish you just did while it was all apart??? I'm driving from mass to Moab in May and want to do this right the first time!

 

PB blast everything haha! Good luck, shouldnt be too bad if you're somewhat mechanically inclined.

Message @Boston10Taco or some North east guys if you need help

 

Just make sure you know everything you need to do before ya get started! I started and ended up smashing some threads on the threading holding the lower A arms in place and had a few problems along the way, was supposed to be 2 hours what turned into 5 hours lol

 

Yeah I've done my homework as far as the install so I'm good there. just some things like maintenance or additional mods it would need the opinions are super split so it gets tough lol

 

diff drop kit?

proportioning valve bracket?

exhaust hanger bracket?

 

Diff drop kit I have is the exhaust hanger bracket a must? What does it change? Same with the valve bracket? Some people seem to talk like it is critical others skip over it in past threads.

 

How high do you plan on lifting in front? Have you checked front end for play? Tie rods, bushings, ball joints, steering rack? Would be a good time to replace anything that needs it

 

Front end is solid just checked rods and ball joints the other day but good point it won't hurt to triple check those things while it's apart.

 

I was also planning to lift mine, and I never installed a LIFT kit. I mean, I replaced shocks and stuff, yet never made any real suspension mods to any of the trucks I had. Now I decided to give it a try, and even studied several instructions and videos. They say that some cutting is required, is that true? Or that's only for 4 in + lifts? Cause I am slightly confused and I'm not sure I want to cut something underneath as things may get rusty. Did you have to cut anything there?

 

x2 on the PB Blaster and have some vice grips handy...

 

You shouldn't have to cut for a 2" lift what's the exhaust hanger though??

 

I want to lift it by 4 in, man. I am not sure about the hanger, let me take a look into it. Though some instructions, like THIS one, say that I'll have to cut that control arm pocket. Did you have to cut anything there so far? And you know, I am fine with cutting, not a big deal, just do not want it to rust there.

 

Sorry, went to bed last night. The exhaust hanger moves your exhaust in the right rear down enough to clear the springs. Had to do it for my OMEs or the exhaust would rub on the spring. The other option is to cut the exhaust before the spring....

The proportioning valve bracket relocates where your rod connects to the diff to keep your rear brakes operating properly. Your proportioning valve is load sensitive, so the more weight you have in the back of your truck (and the closer your frame gets to your axle due to weight on the suspension) the more your rear brakes apply. So if the springs lift the frame 2" higher, you need a bracket that moves that rod for your proportioning valve two inches higher at ride height