02 Tacoma doublecab 3-Link on FJ80 axles

I feel your pain

 

finally made some headway on my satoshi. Doesn't really have to do with the swap at all but it does serve a purpose. Better airflow to my smaller radiator, more room behind the grille for a bigger trans-cooler and going to get rid of the solenoid box for my warn m8000 and mount a contactor. Still need to primer the grill and then touch up the mesh where it got scuffed up. I'm going to have to truck wrapped after all the mechanical work is all done because I hate black and the paint is toast. I want a tan color so ill paint the grille to match that. Need to clean up the old school Toyota emblem and shoot it with a couple coats of clear.

 

Eric at Yotamasters gave me the good news that my diffs would be ready to pick up tomorrow (4/21). I ordered the front range transfer case skid. I'm going to do something like Midcoma's build on pirate. I'm not clocking my cases so it should be easier to make something up. Going to use poly bushings at the frame so that I can make it removable if need be, hopefully the vibrations won't be too bad. While I was under the truck getting things ready for the dual,s I noticed my transmission mount was broken clean through on the drivers side. Probably had something to do with my not so clean shift feedback as well as some vibrations. Pretty sure the transmission crossmember in its stock form will have to go out the window when the lower link mounts get placed on the frame, but I would still like to keep it in the mix once I know whats going on. I also pulled the intermediate drive shaft and put the 8" shorter one in to check to make sure its the right length.
mattyred86


Did some more work on my Satoshi. Primed and sanded it, tested a couple colors. I used camo khaki and decided it was too light and would show too much BS, so I went with "nutmeg".


I still need to wet sand it with 800 grit, then spray a couple more coats. then a couple more coats of clear and it should be ready for the grill inserts I made. I also cleaned up the wheel hubs for the front axle. Sanded them, cleaned 'em then a coat of rust inhibitive primer and that same nutmeg color over the top.

 

That "nutmeg" color is very nice.

So when do you start the for the links? Are you waiting to get your duals/tranny stuff sorted out?

 

@1999RegCab The idea is to get the tcases in and the rear axle before it goes to a shop for the front 3-link. I just got both differentials back from yotamasters yesterday, the rear axle is ready to build out hub to hub. The front axle is pretty close, I need to sort a few things out with the Hellfire fabworks knuckles, so I need to talk to ruffstuff and find out how to fix a couple things. I pretty sure I'm going to need to run a 1" body lift for the triple sticks linkage to clear the tunnel. I was planning on re-doing my sliders as well so I'll move those up. @rocksolidtoys is swamped after they moved to the new shop, so Wyatt said the earliest they could get to it is probably end of May, which gives me time to do the cases, rear axle, power steering pump, body lift and a few other things.
changed the trans mount


shifter console problem, the stock t-case shifter has a pretty substantial dog-leg built in to it so I'm pretty sure all three of the triple sticks are going to need similar treatment, I want it to look as factory as possible. The main problem is the auto trans shifter gate.



This mess

 

I had a 1" body lift installed already before the SAS started. It made a big difference during the installation of the Atlas. That extra inch really provides a good amount of clearance; it really makes things easier.

So you are going with RST. Your SAS won't be cheap .....but it will be done right! At least you will have a few things done beforehand, so that should keep the costs down and make the SAS move faster.

 

Yeah that's the idea not sure on the details. Not set in stone yet emailed Wyatt a couple months ago and he's commented on a few of my Instagram posts. When I picked up my Diffs from Yotamasters, talked to Eric for quite awhile and he said they try to stay away from 3-links but they do plenty of leaf spring swaps. Speaking of diffs




Back in the day I know 4crawler AKA Roger brown had the best body lifts. Any other good recommendations on brands.

 

I hacked the floor out and built a removeable trans tunnel when i installed my triple sticks. Thats the way to go IMO, even with a body lift its going to suck major ass adjusting the linkages with the floor in the way. Plus having the ability to access the top of the cases from inside the truck is very nice.

 

Being able to fill the cases from the top is worth it alone.

 

Good to hear the diffs are built and ready to roll! You are getting closer to getting those axles built.

I installed the "roger brown" body lift many years ago. Really good product. I am not aware anymore of what products are in the market for the tacomas these days.

In regards to yotamasters staying away from link suspensions.....maybe it is not worth it to them to take on such time consuming projects. For example, a few years back I called both Demello and Allpro (when they were still in CA) for price quotes and they told me it is not worth it for them to do 3-links or SASs in general in house [not even sure they do them anymore]. They said the are better off spending their work force on other types of fabrication. They also said the average customer is not willing to pay what they would need to charge for a 3-link project anyway. But obviously, these places will do it if the customer is serious and motivated enough with $$$

As I mentioned before....To me, time is money. I was glad to a pro builder build my truck. It still took almost six months though...and this was at a fully equipped shop that does several SAS each year. The truck would probably still be sitting in my garage on jack stands unfinished if I did it myself lol

RST will build you a bad ass rig and you will be very happy at the end

 

@1999RegCab Yeah that's basically how they explained it to me, too many variables on the link suspension and the time/cost. Eric did tell m that they did a link suspension on an 05+ model using all-pro's "kit" so as you said if the money is there then its hard to turn it down.

While I was down at yotamasters they had a guys fj62 with fj80 axles under it which was cool because I got to see the front axle with the hellfire knuckles in the flesh. The only other time I got to see them installed was on a linked 86 4runner at the then owner of hellfire's house (billy). Yotamasters was fixing the guys wonky draglink that another shop had botched. Other cool thing I got to check out is how the guy got his parking brake to work. I'm not sure if he's using his modified factory 62 cable or the fj80 one. He ditched the elocker motor in the rear and went cable actuated which I thought was pretty cool.

 

I put an 80 series rear axle under my old FJ60 years ago... I remember having to use the 80 series parking brake cable, but I can't remember exactly why the 60 series one would not work... I think maybe it was length? The 80 series one is a good deal longer than the 60 series one...like 8-12" or something, IIRC.... but I'm not sure the 80 series one is long enough to reach all the way up to where the 1st Gen Tacoma pull handle is under the dash... *maybe*, but I doubt it. I'd say you could swap in the lever style from a 3rd Gen 4Runner, but with all those shifters in the center console, it might be a bit busy to try and squish in a 4runner lever style park brake handle right around there too...

 

Getting the ebrake to work on my 80 rear is on my list of shit to do this summer. Ill post pics when i start.

 

Late to the party but subbing to this so that I can read it later

 

No problem thanks for checking it out, you haven't missed much yet. I'm tying up all the loose ends right now to get ready for the cutting. Today I swapped out my power steering pump for example, nothing to do with the swap directly but still needed to get done.

 

I just need it to make it to the adjustment setup that's mounted inside the frame rail under the driver, and figure out how to tie it in there. Running R1A gear drive cases gives me the option of a transfer case brake if need be but I think I can make it work.

 

What pump did you go with again?

I'm sure you posted about it somewhere but I'm lazy and don't feel like reading old posts

 

Just replaced the stock one for a new re-man. My pump was whining pretty bad, the vanes inside of it get worn down by the housing and instead of being nice and square they get a semi ellipsis worn into them. Nothing special like a PSC or anything. I dont plan on going bigger than 35"s (37" max) If I need to and the budget allows ill go hydro assist, I want to keep my truck as streetable as possible. I dont have much desire to open the full hydro can of worms nor do I think my application would ever warrant it.

 

Got my Front range offroad fab t-case skid-plate today. I was under the impression that the stock rubber mounts would bolt up to it but it bolts directly to the t-cases. I guess its a plus that I'll save a bunch of ground clearance. Im just hoping that poly bushings at the frame will be enough to dampen the vibrations. Very well built, haven't checked fitment yet but there is some leeway in the mounting holes. Already brainstorming ideas on what I want to do for cross members, I just need to mount it to the T-cases to see what kind of surface area for welds I'm working with.

 

Oh man...famous last words LOL

You'll probably end up with 37"s. Most people do...you'll see I think you can get away without hydro assist up to 35"s. But with 37"s and up you def need it. Personally, after all the work an aggravation to do a SAS, I would want to run the biggest tire possible. And 37"s are just that much more awesome than 35"s

The full hydro, well, yea that's a whole different ball game. I have 40"s and hydro assist feels just amazing. I have not experienced the need to go full hydro...yet