Diff drop or ECGS CS Bushing?

2017 SR5. 1" spacer on the front to clear my tires. Yeah my 265/70r17's rubbed, slightly at 3/4-full lock. Anyway I have the bilsteins from a trd or with the spacer and I am getting the pedal vibrations that I know weren't there when it was stock.

It didn't bother me that much and I was going to do the bushing when I lift the truck in about a year but now (as life always does) I am having to drive my truck for work. I am an estimator for a contractor locally so I am driving all day everyday and it's bothering me lol.

I don't want to do this myself and the local shop recommended the diff drop or $105 an hour to do the bushing. He has never done one so he wasn't sure about the time it would take but I'm confident in his ability to do the work correctly.

Do you guys have any opinions on this? If I should go with the bushing, the time it should take the shop to do it?

Supposedly this is the local guy that does all the suspension work, lifts, axle, and differentials, etc.

Thanks everyone

 

All the lift manufacturers I've seen so far have suggested to not add the diff drop for 16-17, it was more common the 05-15 to try. I no longer install diff drops even if they come with the level or lift kit now.

I tried the diff drop when I lifted mine back in Jan16 and found no improvements. The only solution so far is the ECGS, and it will fix the vibes.

 

I've seen a lot of warnings to stay away from diff drops for 3rd gen. Does your vibration go away when driving in 4HI? That's a tell tale sign that you need ECGS bushing. Assuming your shop is as experienced as you say it is, and assuming they have the proper tools to remove the needle bearing, I'd say an hour at the most.

 

Wait... you're putting on OR shocks with a 1" spacer on an SR... ok not what I'd do. Why not try the carrier bearing shims .... might be what you're feeling.

What vibration and what speed are you feeling it?

Have you verified its you bushing??

 

Not convinced you have the needle bearing vibe. You did get an alignment after install right? When my needle bearing was being annoying it vibrated whole truck and made a sound like a washing machine. Like previously mentioned go on straight road when its acting up and click into 4hi. If it smooths right out order bushing. If not give better description when it happens.

 

It takes about 2 to 3 hours of labor if you pay a shop to do it. Some have got it done for $180 and others I've seen $300 range.

For parts: if you need the removal tool it's $60. Otherwise some threads on here people are selling, loaning or renting them out for less. Then you're waiting on availability and such....

-$60 for the bushing
-$20 for new axle seal (dumb not to buy one because it's cheap and you'll likely tear up the stock one upon removal)
-$20 for 2 qts of 85w-140 Lucas Gear Oil

If you do it yourself it could take 3 to 4 hours. You have to have a tie rod puller (rent one), pull the cv axle out of the diff, and you have to refill the diff with fluid (1.6 quarts of 85w-140 Lucas Heavy Gear Oil based on ECGS recommendations). Also recommended to have some sort of bearing driver to help get the bushing seated flush and straight.....
Labor also involves tearing down the drivers side suspension obviously to get access and to pull the axle so this is why many recommend doing it while you do your lift. Otherwise you're backtracking and tearing up track to get it right.

There are write ups on how to do it. See an example here of a pretty good write up: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-adventures.362772/page-171#post-14019469

With just parts you're looking at anywhere from $140 to $180. Now add labor.

Price it out here: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

Read their FAQ and install instructions on that ECGS link. See if you think you can do yourself.


EDIT: BTW repair shops aren't huge fans of people coming in with a self-diagnosis (shocking I know) So be prepared to hunt around for a shop that will be willing to perform the job, putting on customer-supplied parts, with a customer-provided diagnosis.... particularly on a brand new still-under-warranty vehicle. It will help if you walk in with the install procedure from ECGS printed out, and parts in hand. Any shop that can replace a CV axle should technically be able to complete the job within a couple of hours.

 

BTW you can isolate whether or not it is the Needle Bearing fairly easy. When it's vibrating switch to 4Hi. If it goes away immediately, you have your culprit.

 

Why not? I picked them up for $75 with 500 miles, spacer included. The only reason like I said, was to clear my rubbing issue.

It seems like all speeds really although I try and not pay attention to it. I will try 4wd right now as I head out of the office.

 

No hate bro.. just saying not "what I'd do" - in reference to the 1" spacers for clarify.

$30K truck saves money buying used parts.

 

I would put the Diff Drop kit as I have. I think the reason some don't want to is because it lowers the diff but if you put bigger tires that offsets it a little and gain some of it if not all back. 1/2hr job and less than $50. $.02

 

I'm just trying to be a trd haha

Anyway I switched to 4wd. No change. But honestly now that I pay more attention to it, it feels like an engine vibration that I guess I just fee through the pedal. Probably just paranoid from everything I read on here!

I'm slowly learning with my first tacoma that they are much different from a full size truck.

Now I feel like I shouldn't have posted.

 

edit

No worries ... messin with ya! Try the Carrier bearing shim kit and it's a 15 minute install. Will fix vibration.

 

Definitely had an alignment, but it's that bad when it's a problem? Damn I guess I'll for sure know after I lift the truck lol.

 

Yes it was a consistant intermittant groan that sounds like a wash cycle. That sound haunts me. Brum brum brum brum brum(click to 4wd) ____________ *silence*

 

I had same problem... Hum at 35-45 mph... switch to 4hi, hum gone... ended up removing my spacer lift due to the hum as well as my truck riding like a horse carriage...


probably going to put on a better susp. kit, and the hum will return, so the general verdict is replace needle bearing and/or add carrier bearing shim for this issue?

 

I'll be doing both. My vib seems to be consistent at all speeds and doesn't go away when in 4hi. I have already ordered the bushing and just ordered the carrier bearing drop. I'm guessing my vibs are due more from the carrier bearing and not the bushing but i'll replace it anyway for piece of mind.

Any other areas I could look for? I'm pulling my hair out to track the source of this down.

 

If it goes away in 4Hi, i'd swap out the needle bearing with the ECGS Bushing. It's just a matter of time before that needle bearing goes bad anyhow, if you lifted.

From there see how it does. If you still have vibes it is time to start isolating other problem areas.

It could be a ton of different things. The Needle Bearing is just one of the more pronounced and common issues that come up with a lift.

 

I did the carrier bearing drop and can't really feel a difference. Not sure if I should take it back off or not. I do have the ECGS bushings in. I'll get it installed in a couple of weeks. In the meantime any ideas of what I could be checking? The vibs def do NOT go away in 4Hi. Otherwise I would be sold on the idea its the needle bearing. Its def in the drive line somewhere. I'm going to have my alignment checked and wheel balance checked just to rule that out but I'm pretty sure that is not it.

I don't really feel anything in the steering wheel. It seems to be only in the gas pedal, and break pedal when under heavy breaking. Its more of a constant buzz in the toes. How can I isolate the problem? Any techniques?

 

wouldn't a 1 inch front diff drop, change your pinion angle since it only drops the front of the diff down? Then you end up with possiblity of driveline geometry and vibrations etc? and if you have the front of the diff dipping down an inch, your diff fluid is going to pool more in the front and maybe lead to diff oil starvation? not sure how much of a pinion angle change a 1 inch drop would make though so, I guess it's moot for the moment.

why not just do the bushing replacement. at least then you know how to take out/put back CV in. If CV boot or the CV axle eventually goes because of the angles you already know how to fix it, and it's only $100 a pair. Pinion repair costs a bit more.

 

check your driveline angles? from rear diff to front diff?

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/t...ry-understanding-pinion-and-driveshaft-angle/

can do it easy with an iphone these days. No more days of climbing under rusted out jeeps with roof inclinometers trying to figure out pinion and caster angles.

if you don't want to do it yourself, there's an app for it

http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=154