Malburg114's 3Link go fast SAS

Pretty sure current wheels are 16x8 or 8.5 and -6 offset. Not sure on backspacing though. Wheels will be for the current axle and future axle lol. But mainly for future axle. And good to know about the tape.

 

Neither wheels, save up for beadlocks, cheaper in the long run. If you really need wheels, get the cheapest steel ones you can find while you save $$$.

 

I second this. Save your pennies and get yourself some Trail Ready Beadlocks

 

Nah not seeing the need for beadlock s. Would be nice but I think they're more for the bling factor. I'd rather buy some other stuff lol.

 

They are about as bling and useful as a solid axle.

 

Don't get me wrong, a lot of guys put beadlocks on for the bling factor these days (think mall crawling second gen Taco or JK) but if you are really wheeling hard on 37's, you will be pleased with beadlocks. I've been a holdout for years and still rocking cheap D window Jegs wheels but they work until I can afford good wheels. At single digits I burp from time to time but I've never actually lost a bead....it actually took lifting off the front tow hook from my F250 with a highlift to debead the tire in the garage, it would just lift the Tacoma to the moon because its so light. I understand you wanting to get a 17" wheel so you don't have to buy tires twice when you go to 37's, so just rock some cheap steel wheels until you are ready to buy some decent beadlocks and go from there.

 

Beadlocks are entirely a benefit to performance. Beadlocks can let you go down to stupid low pressures and not break the bead. Also, beadlocks will prevent the wheel from slipping inside the tire



I know it's a drag car, but it still applies.

For rock crawling, they're invaluable. Yes you can get away with not having beadlocks, but having them is entirely to your benefit.

 

Those tires/wheels you're selling. They're tempting me....

Going to let a few other local Toyota guys know about them that might be interested.

 

Let me know if you want them. I'll be ordering wheels here soon and once I get them mounted I'm going to need to get rid of them lol.

 

I get the benefits of beadlocks. Just not in the cards at this time. My main question is what kind of backspacing should I be looking for and I will go from there.

 

Guess I might as well through this in here. You could get some steelies and DIY beadlocks.

https://atozfabrication.com/atoz-fabrication-diy-bead-lock-kit.html

They're far cheaper, and in total will run you less than a grand, however, they're nearly impossible to balance so they truck would turn into a trailer queen. Also when I mean impossible to balance, I don't mean they'll make the truck undrivable. They'll never balance correctly and you'll have a little vibration somewhere. For the money, they're at least worth checking out.


Or you could get some nice SCS, or whatever you like, and then, later on, have OMF beadlock them.

 

Trying to go with an aluminum wheel to keep the rotating mass down ( if that makes sense lol.) And I still drive my truck on the street a little so don't really want that. Called scs, believe it's only the f5s that will fit locking hubs or it's 40 bucks a wheel to have the lip machined off.

Never heard of OMF before. Pretty interesting company and looks like solid work. If i come into some extra money or am constantly losing a bead then I'll look more into beadlocks. Then you guys can all say you told me so lol. Right now all I see is the price and they will cost more than what I paid for my tires lol

 

I still say to save the cash and just buy cheap steelies for right now. The extra cost of a non beadlock aluminum wheel doesn't make sense to me on a wheeler. A beadlock makes sense since the extra rings add so much weight. You also can knock the outer bead ring of a aluminum wheel off easier if you hit a rock with some speed or fall off a ledge, steel you can just beat back to straight.

 

Unless I'm missing something. 17 in steel wheels (cragar soft 8s and the likes) are still 100 dollars a wheel...

 

Turns out you're right.

https://www.summitracing.com/search...rder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&ar=1&N=4294920356

Which baffles me since my 15s were around half that 2 years ago.

 

Jegs 17x8's are $76 a piece and 15x8's are $56 so the pice gap isn't as big as I thought. I'm used to 15" mini truck cheap stuff because I'm old school and a cheap ass lol.

 

This, i paid less than 100 bucks for a 17x8 soft 8 at discount tire when i needed one for my spare.

 

If you get stickies... you don't need bead locks

 

#TrailerQueen