My timing belt broke.....How do I set my timing?

Any idea as to should I put sealant on the water pump or just use the gasket

 

My replacement thermostat does not even have the jiggle valve. The original had it facing the bottom tho

 

The aftermarket one I bought to replace the original one didn't have the jiggle valve. I returned it and reinstalled the old one the way it came out... valve on the top.

 

I know it's weird. This is the only engine I've heard of that gets the jiggle valve on the thermostat at the 6 o'clock position. It's actually specified in the FSM. Many owners have even tested both ways and the engine ran consistently a few degrees cooler with it oriented down.

 

Here is hoping this is not an interference engine ?

 

3.4's bottom, 4 cyl's top as per FSM... like I said I was told and had to look it up. Just double checked page EG168 in the 4 cyl section and EG170 in 3.4 section.

 

5vz is the only one that he jiggle valve is on the bottom

 

Just delete your original post and no-one will ever know...

 

3.4 is non-interference engine. Belt breaks oh well. New belt etc. and ready to go.

 

Don't over-think the jiggle valve.. lots of engines don't even have them. If you're worried about bleeding pull the heater hose that goes directly from the engine to the heater core or heater valve off when filling the cooling system. This will let the air out of the heads and fill both sides of the stat..

Be careful with the plastic heater valve! You can cap off the nipple going into the heater core so you don't lose to much coolant out from the heater side.

I like the fill funnels that plug into a radiator cap adaptor.. no spilling and they have a plastic stopper plug so you can let air bubbles burp out when warming up the engine and then you can cap it back off to build up some pressure. I'm internet illiterate or I would post a link to said funnell..

 

https://mobiledistributorsupply.com...0lusopexRntxtGKvGR5Fd9x1BYQSS3P7O8aAqOK8P8HAQ

 

Based on people's feedback on various forums, these engines run 10-20* hotter with the jiggle valve at 12. You're talking about a spill-free funnel.

 

YOU can also achieve 10 to 12 degs difference by simply buying a stat with different opening temp..

 

Like I said you guys are overthinking the jiggle valve.

 

That's true. Still no reason to discount importance of the location of the jiggle valve. That's not doing anyone a favor.

 

If the parts guy handed him a stat for a Toyota 3.4 it's got the right spring rate to open at the correct temp and stay at the correct temp. If there's coolant on both sides of the stat it will warm up correctly, open correctly, regardless of any jiggle valve.

It's the rating of the wax spring stuff that determines the flow of coolant through the stat not

 

Not trying to be the loudest voice in the room I just like talking shop!

 

Ya the engineers at Toyota already did that. It cost more money to make a t-stat with a jiggle valve vs not. So that being said Toyota is not going to waste their money if it didn't need it. The factory t-stat is a 180 degree stat. Never seen a 165.

 

Yeah, don't over think it. Just put it in the way the FSM states, jiggle valve at 6 o'clock. No need to be a hero, the testing has already been done. It's simple, just follow the FSM.

 

FWIW:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/60-t-100-forum/346741-jiggle-valve-position-fer-5vz-fe-engine.html