Cb radio

It's an export radio so it is capable of running 8w as a high power mode by the reviews and talk I had seen, which does then make it illegal like any other export CB that you can modify to run on US frequency range.

 

The tech specs on the unit referenced above states transmitter output is 8 watts. Speaker outpu is 1 watt. Back in the day, I had a 23 channel Pace. That thing would cover some serious distance...

 

I have a cheepo that talks well for 500 feet or so - to a hand held when a guide is needed. But for long range forget it. I did hunt down a unit with NOAA weather bands tho, that turns out to be useful info just about anywhere.

 

Yes that antenna is junk. In fact ANY glass mounted antenna is junk.

This is what you want:

$87 Sirio Performer 5000 PL 10m & CB Mobile Antenna

https://www.amazon.com/Sirio-Performer-5000-Mobile-Antenna/dp/B0075S141E

 

There are export radios made now that do more than the 4 watts and 40 channels alloted by the FCC. Most of them are marketed as 10 meter radios to bypass the FCC rules as the rules for 10 meters is less strict than CB. The thing is almost none of them are good for 10 meter use as the lower end of 10 meter is morse code, then SSB after that and most 10 meter radios don't do CW and some don't even do SSB. The idea is they will be converted for CB use and since many CBers want more than 4 watts and 40 channels but are limited by what the FCC has allowed, is why these export radios have came to exist.

 

These two radios shown here are examples of 10 meter radios that are geared towards being converted to work on CB. Both radios will dead key at anywhere from 5 to 15 watts, and will modulate to an easy 40 watts.

Your typical fcc certified radio dead keys at 3.5 watts and modulates to anywhere from 10 to 12 watts, sometimes up to 13-14.

The extra watts don't really make that much of a difference on the other end. It's just that these radios are what you light hear called "truck driver radios". There's a common issue with CB shops using shady practices to give our hard working otr drivers the warm fuzzies in thinking that extra half a watt is going to make a night and day difference. But that's another subject for another day.

 

Try the Uniden Pro520XL. Simple and no mods needed. I have one in my '16 TRD. It is paired to a 4' tunable firestick antenna.

$71 Uniden PRO520XL Pro Series 40-Channel CB Radio. Compact Design. ANL Switch and PA/CB Switch. 7 Watts of Audio Output and Instant Emergency Channel 9. - Black

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-PRO52...&qid=1493563837&sr=8-1&keywords=uniden+CB+520

 

its just that finding a rout into the cab with the cable is my problem, I thought this glass mounted thing might work but if its junk then whats the use?

 

Take a look at my build page and you can see how I routed my antenna cable. My antenna mount is on the stock bed rail system.

 

How about when I take the truck to the car wash, seems like it might not work so well with a cb antenna.

 

I added a quick release so all I do is go pull it off and throw it in the back seat. As I don't use it except for long trips and off roading, my antenna is normally stored in the cab and the mount is covered by some tape or plastic to keep water out. I use dielectric grease every once in a while as well.

Before I got the QD, I just carried a wrench in my center console to pull it off. Literally took less than a minute.

 

You want an external mounted antenna. Even a mag mount is better than a glass mount. But a hard mount is better than a mag mount.

 

If you look at the Sirio antennas, they have an L screw that let's you loosen and drop the antenna down for the car wash or parking garage.

 

its the easy rout into the cab is what I was going for.

 

I wouldn't call my route easy, but it is well hidden and out of sight. Check out my build thread, it has pictures!

 

I think I'll have to forgo the cb radio thing, dont want nutin to do with drilling holes in my cab. And then there is the wiring part, hell, I gasp and break out in a cold sweat when ever I even look up under the dash at all the wires and shit under there.

 

Why not just run the coax thru the door? Or better yet remove a cab plug under the carpet, run the coax thru there

 

If you look at my pics, you van see the vents for the cab. They are just little flaps that let pressure out when u close the door. You could easily thread through there and not have to drill.