Fan speed switch not working.

Just cleaned my connector and my AC is working like normal again. Thanks to the great members on here.

 

Subbed for future reference

 

Glad this info is here. unplugged and cleaned connector to resistor and it fixed the problem immediately

 

Just did the resistor/plug replacement. It turns out that my truck had the upgraded resistor and the plug was the guilty party. Went ahead and replaced both. Getting those screws out and back in was a PIA, but everything's working like it should again.

 

Greetings, I am new to the board. The thread has been invaluable. However, I may have a new puzzle I trust someone can help me solve. I also was having trouble with the lower speeds on my A/C fan. It's on a 2007 Tacoma. Everything else was working - cold air on high - just no low speeds. I pulled the plug and resistor and well as changed the air filter and checked the fuses. Clean off the pin, which had over heated. It did the job as reconnecting the resistor brought all three speeds back on line. This is where it gets weird. The two lights for the A/C on and Recir did not, nor will they light up. My gear shift is locked and the airbag light came on. I know how to manually engage the gear shit. So at least I can move. I checked all the fuses and as best I can tell they all are fine. Is it possible I missed one? Absolutely. However, this appears to be three separate issues. Again, other than the fan, everything was in operating order with no history of malfunction. While I know there are coincidences, I cannot believe this is one. I must have bumped or done something. I will try and have the codes pulled on Monday and the airbag sensor reset.I did check under the passenger's seat to make sure all was connected simply because I pushed the seat back to make room to get under the dash.

I do know i need to chase a thread about the a/c switch connector overheating and the pins needing checking.

One other curious note, I did try the newly updated resistor - 87138-04052 and it did not work for me. The old resistor did work. Is possible the pins were not making full contact with the spades inside the new resistor? Absolutely. Nonetheless, I went on and just used the old one and it seems to work on all speeds. However, as noted above, the a/c and recir lights do not come on.

Anyhow, thougts suggesstions would prove helpful. Thank you.

 

Did you check the fuses with a multimeter? You can't always tell visually.

Get a meter and check the fuses again.

 

Jimmy,

Actually, I did this afternoon. My tools are about 700 miles away. So I was able to borrow one this morning. I found the pesky fuse. For whatever reason, on visual inspection, it was not so obvious. Well, at least I missed it. I popped in a new fuse IGC 2nd row and all went well. I now have a check engine light. However, I will run by a shop in the morning to pull the code. While visual inspection works 99% of the time, this is the one time the meter proved invaluable. Although had that not worked, I was just going to change out all the corresponding blade fuses.

Again, thanks for the help and yes double and triple check your work... it never hurts.

Regards,

 

Fixed mine over the weekend - thank you so much!

 

Stabilant 22 is a contact enhancer...Approved by various aircraft manufacturers...http://www.stabilant.com/Company.html.

I have used it for years with great success..

I will replace the resister and plug (to assure new males and female connectors with new contact plating) and assemble using Stabilant 22. Should be the best shot at a long term cure.

 

I replaced mine and within a month it went back out again. any suggestions? the connections seem fine In the harness.

 

Thanks for the write -up. That f@@@king 5.5mm screw head in the back is a pain to get out and in. Got a new resistor today, (37.00) so far all is good. When I took out the old one I could see the contacts were burnt.

 

If the resistor fails once replace it and see how things go. If you get into a situation where the resistor keeps failing over and over again it is likely because the blower motor windings are shorted and drawing too much current. Meaning the motor draws more current to perform the same amount of work, and it's not necessarily going to blow a fuse. The more current flow creates more heat and the heat is what melts the connector and takes out the resistor. When customers come in and I find a bad resistor I always recommend doing the blower motor and the resistor at the same time as a pair

 

Hey guys, same problem here. I replaces the resistor and the wiring harness. Would someone tell me where to find the blower fuse, I'm thinking it's in the box under the driver side dash, but which fuse? None say blower motor. I want to check this fuse before I replace the blower motor.

 

Hey guys, I've had the issue of an annoying clicking sound whenever I turn any level of my air on. I took out the glove box and cleaned the air filter and it was still clicking. So I went to follow the steps of taking out the blower motor and cleaning/lubricating it up. When I went to unplug the electrical connection though, it wouldn't come out. Tried to wrestle it out for a while but it just wouldn't unplug. I figured if I unscrewed the 3, 5.5mm screws that the motor would drop out and I could unplug the connection easier. Took out the 3 screws though and the motor wouldn't budge either. Not sure if stuff has overheated and melted in place or what? I'm hesitant to really try and pull out the electrical connection or the motor itself but has anyone had similar issues or can suggest what I should do? Cheers

 

First, PROPS to Gordon-Gekko! I just pulled my motor, cleaned it, and now it works great at all speeds. I cheat cleaned it, just sprayed some mass-airflow sensor cleaner through the big hole, spun the motor, drained, and repeated until it ran out clean. First few flushes were BLACK. Did not bother to actually go into the motor and pull brushes/springs - just sprayed and drained several times. Did not even bother touching the resistor/plug thing. Added a drop of light oil to the bearing, before reinstalling.

Yotagang, I've got fairly strong fingers/hands/forearms, and my plug did not want to come out either. I eventually put a flat-blade screwdriver between the housing and plug, right where the release tab is at. While pressing the release tab with one hand, I twisted the screwdriver with the other, and the plug popped right out.

IMHO, the dirty fan motor is what causes the resistor/connectors to overheat. I actually cleaned the resistor/connectors maybe 18 months ago, but the problem just came back in the last week.

 

Sweet, I'll give that a go. Thanks man!

 

I will have to try the MAF cleaner tonight. Mine quit working this afternoon for the second time in a year. I can see where my connector has some "burn" marks but last time I just cleaned the connection and it worked again. I will pull the motor and clean along with the connector.

Thanks!

 

What causes the terminal connectors to overheat is the loose connection between the male and female terminals. A loose connection has excessive resistance and acts like a heater, this is what burns the terminals. If it were an excessive current issue the entire wire would have the insulation melted.

 

Hello all, My 2015 AC/heater will not blow hot or cold air (nothing comes out not even air). It only blow on high but there NO heat or cold air coming out on high setting.... its just blowing air. Do you guys think its the resistor? Thanks for any help!