TORSPD: NEVR

Depends on the environment that I am using the vehicle in.

 

Me when they commented about something about UCON -"So it will be released as a standalone finally for my 2015????" Yes!! The production run is going on this week. I will have the first article for bench and functional testing very soon. If there are no issues will list it for orders!!"

Hmmm so that was last week. I know we've all been waiting on it for a while, but I disagree to them saying they've been "almost done" for a while, they've been "working on it" for like ohhh 8 years now, but never been this close or any updates about it. I'm in no rush to go drop another 2k, but I wouldn't be upset if I had to do it in the next few months to get around 350rwhp

 

It'd definitely get you there.

 

I'd like to find an exhaust for the 86 that doesn't sound like complete garbage.

 

Planning on 2.7 pulley, UCON, and probably 7th injector.....and then finally getting around to welding my exhaust and installing my headers

 

The Tanabe one I have heard is very nice. To my ears.

 

I heard a few at the last cars & coffee. Tuna cans errywhere.

 

this^

well, if you hate the boxer rumble, long tube headers take care of that. otherwise, its kinda hard to fubar boxer exhaust, it all sounds about the same no matter what muffler you hang on it.

 

Quite true.

 

Did you get the opportunity to ask any of those owners which brand exhausts that they have?

 

Would appreciate the Napa part # if you don't mind.
Thanks!

 

Scroll down in the link for the video clip. Parked and driving.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/touringmedalion.asp?id=7

 

I can honestly say I don't hate that

 

Woot

 

Torspd,


This is a incredible build thread!! I can't thank you enough for sharing all of this information. Otherwise we would know very little about the 1GR-FE. A little over a year ago my engine developed a rod knock, long story short it broke the rod into a bunch of pieces. Once it broke the 2 hour drive home was much better on 5 cylinders.

So far I have completely disassembled the engine and done a lot of cleaning and preparation. Unfortunately I suffer from the disease of "well... while I'm in here I might as well....". So I have ordered and received a set of Darton sleeves and picked up a set Brian crower rods so far. I have also tapped the front oil gallery port and installed a -12 AN port plug and have done the same with the rear oil gallery port and installed a -10 port plug. I ended up losing motivation in the project for a few months until I stumbled upon this build thread and it has motivated me to keep going.

I have a lot of questions, i mean a lot! but I don't want to bombard you with all of them at once but I have a few for now that would help me get me going.

1) I'm interested in getting the 2JZ-GTE ARP head stud kit to use as main studs. You mentioned that .400 needs to be removed from them and that one of the main caps needs to be machined down. Which main cap needs to be machined and how much material needs to be removed?

2)When you had your sleeves installed did you have them use the factory bolts or the studs to torque the caps down with during machining?

3)During final installation what torque did you tighten the main studs to?

4)Which vendor do you recommend for the ARP head studs for the heads? I know a couple vendors heave been mentioned but I don't remember which one was settled on to go with or the part number. I remember reading that one of the studs needs to be shortened. Do you know how much needs to be removed?


Thanks you in advance for you help!

 

I am honored that this epic of my modding journey has rekindled your motivations to push forth.

1) The 1GR-FE #4 Main Cap needs to be machined, when used with 2JZ head studs. (<For future Googlers)

Here is the unobtainium - (literally the first time this critical piece of information has been alloted to the interwebz)



That ^^^ is the total height of the main cap, after machined. From the face of where nuts torque down. Only machine the "top". Obviously not the bottom. We only machined off enough to allow the nuts to be just under the oil pan mating surface. Use picture for visual reference.

2) You can use either, but I used the ARP studs.

3) Not sure on the main cap ARP torque specification. The builder did it, and I forgot to ask. Unfortunately. Between 50 -75. I am guessing closer to 50 though, as the pitch is 1.25.

4) Purchasing the head studs through www.lceperformance.com will get you 1GR-FE head studs without clearance issues. You could likely get the Supra head studs as well through them, to use as your main studs. You will need two extra studs, as the 2JZ kit is shy for 1GR needs, if memory serves me.

 

These two pictures will help show the differences in the main caps #'s 1-3, & 4.

 

@TacoLeeSD , I must say that I am staggered and impressed that your rod didn't exit-stage-left through the block. Wow, just Wow!

 

LOL, I was really surprised that the rod didn't exit stage left either although it made a good effort. Here a are a few pictures of the damage. Ultimately I know the cause was the loss of oil pressure, but where the oil went is still a mystery. I checked the oil a week before it blew and it measured 1 quart low which was concerning but nothing I thought I should get overly excited about. I added a half a quart that I had with me, and that weekend I drove the truck on a 400 mile road trip with my buddies. The following week I drove the truck to work as usual and on Saturday lost the motor.