4.0 running rich? Engine noise.

I'll bet most if not all those codes disappear after all the systems pass. I'd drive it a while before doing any troubleshooting based on those codes. When you passed emissions if they plugged into OBD2 port for testing it would have failed based on those codes. I'm sure it's just doing its self testing and they'll start disappearing.

 

So, today, after a few days of basically a full on inspection and a few tweaks on the truck, she's finally running right....It's amazing. Remember, we were talking about the sound the motor is making and how it didn't sound right, yeah, I knew it wasn't right....The thing is, I'm still not 100% what it is. I redid all the grounds and separated a few wires that looked as if they MAY have shorted before or potentially had the risk of shorting, moved the grounds under the hood and isolated the stock frame ground, shortened the main battery ground, relocated engine grounds, adding one to the passenger side from a stock ground on the engine to the passenger fender to the left of air cleaner, removed fuse box and loomed, taped, isolated, and zip tied some of the main wires there, tightened up some bolts here and there, zip tied some wires in the kick panel including aftermarket alarm box, moved some other wires that were seeming to almost be pulling or bending other wires awkardly, cleaned a bunch of connections, tightened a bunch of screws, checked the hoses, changed the cabin filter, and some other little things (still need to get a gas cap and rivet up the housing around it, there's nothing holding hte housing on except the fuel door and clip that it goes to when the door is closed). So when I turned it on, it still has the idle squeal, but the idle is at like 750 rpm, super quiet, not crazy burn ur face off hot under the hood, but it doesn't have that unhealthy low oil/gasket blown sound anymore). The performance seemed better too. Didn't sound like my "exhaust" was coming from under the hood, but was actually coming out of my muffler. Wasn't all jerky when shifting.
I slowly and gruadally moved forward in the process, removing some fuses, and replacing to see if anything changed, and I took out the trailer lights, tail lights, tow break, a/c, acc, towing, and I think that's it, cause i wanted to see if my aftermarket alarm may be doing something weird with the ground and immobilizer or door locks/windows. Cause when i got the alarm installed I think I had a short in my door's speaker wire, so I was thinking maybe it showed reverse polarity when they installed and tested what to do with the wire...so anyway, I installed all the fuses accept ACC because I still want my radio/amp/alarm to be last that way I know the truck is solid, and i forgot I had pulled out the resistor thing under the glove box because it looks straight fucked up, like burnt...So I didn't know if it was blown or not, or if they can blow, or what the deal with it is, so I cleaned it up and removed all the corrosion, and tried to tighen the connection....and when I started the truck, the fuckin' sound was back and it was running shitty....I still had the ACC fuse out tho too, but then I removed the resistor and it was normal again....the resistor? R u fuckin kidding me? To the A/C? Why does that thing matter? So I took it out, and it's runnin g cool again, but I still have all those codes, and actually got more....still too rich/lean/random misfire/radiator temp but this time it added four 02 codes....So IDK it seems fine, and that's a lot of codes...I've read about the ecu not being able to "learn" anymore....could that be something, or u think once i replace that resistor and change the spark plugs i should be cool, right?