Check Engine Light

I just did my AFR, go Denso instead of Bosch. Denso OEM's a bunch of stuff for Toyota. I have heard some iffy things about the Bosch sensors. Plus you can get them on Amazon w/Prime shipping for about $80-$100 a piece.

Also, at least for my AFR sensor, the Denso came with the gasket you need and the Toyota one does not, and cost like $40 more

 

If that happens to be the case I'll definitely look into that. Luckily my sister forgot to cancel her free trial for Amazon Prime so I'll be able to take advantage of that shipping.

 

I've heard if you get a generic sensor the length of the wire might be longer than factory contributing to higher resistance & erroneous readings. I usually try and buy aftermarket if the factory part is substantially higher.

 

I'm taking the truck to the local dealership after I get out of school to see what it is specifically. Hopefully I won't have to buy anything extra other than the muffler already on its way.

 

If it is in fact one/both of your O2 sensors, give them your VIN and get the part #'s for the ones you need. Then check eBay or Amazon, the dealer near me wanted about $440 for my AFR and O2 sensor, you can get both OEM for like $150 if you shop around, possibly cheaper if you just have 2 O2 sensors

My part #'s were:

AFR:

$137 234-9001 Upstream Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor with 10.6” 4-Wire Harness, for Auto Trans Equipped Vehicles

234-9001
O2:

$61 234-4189 Oxygen Sensor

234-4189

 

i had a check engine light go on and off on me for a while. eventually it stuck and read as P0401 EGR insufficient flow, turns out the EGR vacuum modulator was bad.

 

Thanks for your advice and input guys! I'm currently getting the truck checked out now. I'll let y'all know.

 

I just bought the Denso AFR and O2 sensor off Amazon for $150 and change shipped. My O2 sensor is weak and I figure with the cost, do both. Good luck with your issues.

 

Update on the check engine light:

A day late doing this but I'll still do it. Yesterday I brought my truck to the local Toyota dealership and had them check it out. I informed the man that worked with me that there was a hole in the muffler and a new one was on the way after he asked me a few questions and then I went to the wait room while it was being checked out. About 15 minutes later, he calls me back to the payment area and told me that it was sensors in the catalytic converters being tripped. Because of the age of my vehicle they aren't able to tell me exactly which one it is. After he said that, he then followed up by saying that the hole in the muffler is a lot bigger than he thought at first, and that it could in fact be a cause of the check engine light because it was causing there to be no back pressure in the exhaust system. He then told me that wait until I get the new muffler on, and if the light comes back on before I get it on, to just drive with it regularly. Once I get the new muffler in I can bring the truck back in and they'll clear the code for me. If it comes on after the muffler gets installed then I can come back in and they'll check the cats. Today the light came back on after they cleared it to make it go off yesterday. I'll drive with it and get the new muffler on, get the light cleared, and keep this updated if it comes back on afterwards. Thanks for reading, I know it was a little long.

 

Surprisingly, that sounds like solid advice from the tech at the stealership. Okay, okay. Maybe not that surprising, but kinda is. Thanks for the follow-up. Keep us posted after the muffler goes on.

 

Will do. It's driving fine right now. No change in performance except it idles at a little bit lower rpm.

 

X10!!