2013 TRD Magnuson Oddity

The engine size does not come up on the initial BD download. It lists a vehicle that you're expected to be running, and then sets the stats from there. Things like engine size and vehicle weight can be found under, I believe, vehicle settings. I'd have to go through the menu again to see for certain.

2010-2014 Tacoma is the only vehicle listed on my download, but that registers with a 3.5l engine. After that you can go to Vehicle Settings to adjust up to 4.0l. Or, at least, I needed to. It's always possible that BD sent me bad stats. I'm getting the impression that they're not the finest in canned tunes. Even the after-download adjustment in engine size probably did nothing to the actual coding. I'm sure that's just for its driving instructor, or possibly for some of its presented stats. There's no confidence at this point that anything outside of dock lock level behavior can be done through BD without re-flashing.


Okay, on to the primary issue here! Dirty, dirty MAF. I'll admit that, when I pulled it, I was expecting to see more buildup on my sensor than was present. I soldiered on regardless and gave it a good cleaning from a $10.00 can of MAF cleaner that I felt the local Advance Autoparts overcharged me for. Just finished the first true test drive on my fresh sensor....

The initial install of the Maggie was giving me around 17mpg. That had been steadily declining to 15, which I mentioned earlier I attributed to an increasingly brave lead foot. To be exact, my last pre-clean calc was 15.16

This morning, however, was the first real test on the clean MAF and suddenly I'm seeing... get this... 20.94mpg. Needless to say I'm happy with that number. Granted, that was granny-driving. I didn't floor it at any point, and drove as if I wanted to see good mileage. Well, I got it, to a level I was never able to achieve before the cleaning.

I also didn't do any manual shifting. I'll be checking that out later today -- this morning was just to get a baseline. If I can get the p0101 to pop again, then I obviously still have some issues. Automated shifting seemed to be smooth and power came on nicely, but that's not a very rigorous check since I was letting the cruise control make most of the decisions for me. I could feel the Maggie engage on uphills, but otherwise it remained subdued.

Oh, and to FinnJ? I cleaned without disconnecting the battery, so I should still be able to pull the LTFT. Damn, I need to get a quality OBD II reader. Will do that ASAP. I have a holiday road trip planned today which should give me some real numbers.


Let's move on. It sounds like a wideband is in my future, along with a truly filtered fuel pump. Those will both be coming as time and budgeting will allow. For now, how clean am I? Early results in this whole mess tells me that K&N screwed my intake. Should I now be looking at Seafoam?

If so, where in the line should I be injecting it? I know that my SHO had issues with that kicking carbon deposits free and into the turbos (no, I never did install a catch-can), so I can't tell if Seafoam should be used at all at this point... or if it should be used at the filter... past the MAF... or at the throttle body after the Maggie.

Advice on how to get my intake back to a reasonable level of clean would certainly be appreciated.



Quality advice and some good reading off of this thread. I want to thank everyone who has contributed so far. You guys are awesome!

 

The LTFT will starts correct itself right away, will be fixed completely after 2 hours drive or so. So, I think you still have some AFR problems. First you'll get P0101, and if very lean, then P0171 and P0174.

Buy Scangauge II, reasonable price, very informative; you can see wideband A/F ratio from both banks 12.0-18.0, read and reset MIL codes, read STFT and LTFT from both banks, take 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile times and everything else. I can't live without.

 

I was getting the same code 101. But only when getting hard on the freeway. I cleaned the sensor and still happened. Turns out when I cleaned the filter my buddy put too much oil on it and it killed the sensor. New sensor and no more code

 

^ You should check your LTFR and AFR too.

 

The rest if your intake is fine. It doesnt take much of the filter oil to mess up the MAF sensor. Now order a AFE pro dry filter.

 

Ya I gotta order a af gauge

 

Scangauge II sounds very reasonable -- I'll pick one up, thanks. I'm fairly confident that the clean sensor has corrected my problems, though. 21.04 mpg on a longer road trip. If that's with A/F problems then I'd love to see what I get fully-functioning. But since I wanted to stock a scanner anyway, that one seems both within budget and highly informative.

The widebands I objected to earlier were dedicated ones that required their own wiring, and did nothing else. Scangauge is a happier looking product.

'Played around with some manual shifting this morning, mainly down to 4 while on the freeway along with some hard charging, but took it down through all of them to low and back up to D at least once on the streets. No codes yet, but they wouldn't always show up immediately. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

I certainly am planning on snagging a high-flow air filter. I was not, however, planning on getting one that's washable. Is there a valid reason for running the risk of either not cleaning it well enough when it becomes dirty, or even contaminating it during the process?

Not that I'm completely closed off to the concept. I'd just like to hear a better reason than saving money in the long run -- such as performance that will never be found within a high-end disposable filter.

 

Dry filters are for MAF based systems. Oiled work with MAP based systems. Do not use oiled filters with MAF based systems.

The OEM fuel pump DOES have a filter, post outlet, post fuel pump sock. The sock protects the pump, and the filter protects the injectors.

It's down falls are that the OEM fuel filter is not a serviceable part by itself, and the pump is not a high enough LPH to support additional mods without reaching Max Duty cycle.

Do a fuel pump upgrade. Gives you the the additional ability to easy change your fuel filter since it will be external, and your pump will have more headroom to safely supply fuel for additional mod growth.

 

It amazes me that Magnuson sent out an oiled filter with their Tacoma specific installation kit, then. I'm also shocked that my installer didn't see a problem with that, or that they didn't think of this as a solution when it first happened. That does not fill me with confidence.

Some really good stuff going in this thread, I like it. Though I'd still like to see a valid argument for a cleanable dry air filter rather than a high-quality disposable.

While I'm waiting, I want to throw this bit out there again. It's documentation for Bully Dog GT Platinum tuners:

"Adjust the throttle position sensor readings. Typical stock setting for a pedal pressed halfway to the floor is 30%. Change the setting to 50% to provide more room for acceleration (great for racing on a designated racetrack). Change the setting to a value that is smaller than 30% to desensitize the throttle (great for off-road driving)."


I was only getting 64% peak throttle instead of WOT prior to the cleaning. I should check that again to see if it's changed, but I doubt it. Not with that piece of literature. I'm expecting it to be a programming thing.

Does ANYONE have any experience with this aspect? Is that the typical stock setting for Toyota's TRD Off-Road trucks? Is that the typical stock setting coming out of Bully Dog?

More importantly... can it be changed? I still haven't had the chance to get my battery up to 12.1 for the re-flash, but I do not even know if the opportunity to change the throttle sensitivity lives there. Shiftpoints, yes, and octane expectations, sure. But throttle positioning?

Anyone?

 

Haltech Elite 2500. All I've got to add. Lol.

 

The deal with washable vs disposable filters is good, efficient filters are too expensive to throw away. An AFE pro dry filter (which I recommend) is $80. You dont have to wash though you can blow out the dirt/dust and go on.
You could use a stock filter, just might decrease the airflow a little.

 

You probably should have also added $2,495... which is the US price not including installation.

gersus -- I'm not planning on sticking with the stock filter by any means. It's what's in there for now, but not for much longer. I'm just trying to find a good replacement option. Clearly K&N had repercussions I was entirely ignorant of. That's what came with the Maggie installation kit, though. I didn't even think to question it because... hey... K&N.

A good disposable gets me a brand new filter every time I change. A reusable one gets me the chance to screw it up every few months. I can just imagine accidentally sucking borax through my intake...

 

Don't make it a bigger deal than it is. Just rinse the thing and go on.

 

Pff. That doesn't include the wiring harness, module/s, and sensors. Ha.

You could make slime with the Borax. All the rage with the kids.

 

I'm having more fun killing ants with it...

Say, that'd be a good way of keeping them out of my throttle body.

 

I've driven over 120000 km with K&N type TRD filter without issues. I think it's ok if it's oiled right, not too much. I changed it to the OEM panel filter while ago (because I saw that the K&N was not completely tight), I can't notice any difference in performance or MPG.

 

Meh. Still at 64% peak throttle. Digging a little further into the vehicle settings shows Stock Throttle Sensitivity. That's grouped in with the speed/rev limiters and the fuel source, so it's possible that I can adjust it from another download. If I can ever get the battery to 12.1, I'll give it a shot.

That's Toyota's stock setting, though. It makes me wonder what the downside might be. Since I haven't upgraded the fuel pump yet, I'd hate to overload it already.

 

Any updates to this? I’m. Stuck at 64% as well and can’t help but think I have so much more free power to gain!

 

Wideband is insurance not just for racing. Probably most important thing you could measure. If you monitor exhaust you can prevent blowing up your motor even from a fuel pump issue (which usually happens slowly).

I'd be suspicious of the OV tune and electronic shifting, Toyota has not released very much on some of their electronics like ECM and shifting so it's not surprising that the chip may experience issues. What are the RPMs when shifting in 4th vs D? Have you checked the fluid level in tranny? Maybe you've got a low fluid level that is causing issues at high RPM?